Reinhoud
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Posts posted by Reinhoud
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Am I correct that with a richer mixture the turbo spools up quicker and keeps a more stabile boost? Or is my bike breaking in?
I put bigger jets in it and the boost gauge jumps to the max once of a sudden...
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On 7/8/2020 at 3:40 AM, Swiss Toni said:
As Reinhoud says, 'Look at your head'. Fit your studs into the case where your think they should go. Fit head & barrels, and see how much thread shows through the head. you need a nut snugged down, showing maybe 2-3 threads. Allow for gaskets. Swap round until it's right!
You can see on the head itself where the short and long ones go.
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Still busy fine tuning, goes very slow.
It's winter, I can do about 1 test run a day. During the day the sunlight is too bright, can't read my AFR gauge, and when it's getting dark the wallabies come out, you don't want to hit one of them with 160km/h on the clock.
For some reason the turbo cranks out more boost now, it jumps to 15psi in the blink of an eye, bike goes very well.
It still has detonation, first get the right jet size before I start fidling with the ignition timing.
AFR was 13, put bigger jets in it, now it's 10..
About to order some jets, unfortunally the bike shops don't stock them.
The rear brake starts playing up, it seized, when I loosen the bleed nipple everything is alright again..
It looks like I can't adjust the ignition retard, looks like that whatever number I put it on, the retard stays the same..
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Hold the carbs up side down and blow through the fuel line, if you can blow through one of the float needles is leaking.
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Look at your head, you should be able to see where the short one, and where the long ones go.
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Boost controller came in last week, installed it and had a test ride..
Turbo is cranking out about 12 psi at the moment, I think this is about the max what this little turbo can give.
Bike is fast enough I think, there are no straight roads here, I'm pretty happy with the power it cranks out, maybe if I can find an afordable VF23 or 22 one day I'll get it.
Bike does suffer detonation with the boost raised with the ignition retard set on 4 degrees. I had a good quality 95 octane petrol in the tank.
I tried 98 octane from a iffy service station, the only servo what sells 98, there is a difference, but not much! So I'm going to tune it that it runs well on 95.
That iffy servo is the only servo what sells 98 everywhere, but my car runs like crap on that brand and uses a lot more fuel as with the top brands.
Because the ignition retard jumps from 4 to 8 degrees I'm going to test how the bike runs on 8 degrees retard but with the ignition advanced a few degrees, so I have 6 degrees retard on boost.
Because every degree I do not have to retard is good.
Bike runs better with the ignition advanced.
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On 7/3/2020 at 4:06 AM, BanditPervert said:
Perfect thank you, that’s exactly what I was looking for.
ive never done a turbo bike before or ridden one so still not sure what to expect, I’m hoping for a nice surprise.
does really run out of fuel that quickly?
Oh, you're going to like it!!
Power comes outy of the tank..
My GS1000 did use 17 liters of pertol doing 70km and a dyno run..
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12 hours ago, BanditPervert said:
Wasn’t sure weather to start a new thread or not, but with regards to the fueling, do I need to remove the vacuum from the fuel tap?
I have an Osias high pressure fuel pump with a fpr and in line filter, will the vaccuum from the carbs still be ok to use?
thanks
Yes sir
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On 6/28/2020 at 6:34 PM, MeanBean49 said:
If you google IHI vf turbo specs one of the first results has a list of them all and a description of the whole range, handy quick guide, just worth remembering the power figures relate to a car engine that makes more power N/A than bandit/gsxr low comp motors. Equates to 50bhp ish less on bike in my experience.
That's the chart I meant.
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1 hour ago, MeanBean49 said:
22 is the biggest, spools bit slower but best for power, 400bhp on car, (350 on bike)
23 has same turbine but smaller compressor. Spools faster but less power 350bhp on car (280-300 on bike)
24 has 23 compressor and a smaller turbine 275bhp on car (maybe 250 on bike)
Cant really hybrid them apart from a 24 small turbine with a 22 big compressor but that would be a bit crap, would spool slower because of the big compressor and make less outright boost because of the small turbine.
Thanks.
There's a chart on the net for the VF turbo's, but for some it doesn't hold information, like the one I have..
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15 hours ago, clivegto said:
No, l have a high-bread one vf22 hot side vf23 cold side. Turbo reconditioning man says it will spin up fast & make more top end power while retaining middle power as well.
Ah thanks.
I did read that the 22 is an upgrade from the 23, that's why I asked, not familiar with the numbers, I have the impression that a higher number not necessarirly means it's a bigger turbo...
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52 minutes ago, clivegto said:
Ihi vf22 ball bearing turbo will spin up fast & produce lots of power. Saying that I manged to get 260hp out of my td04.
Is the VF22 bigger than the VF23?
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I've got a VF20 from a Subaru Legacy (primairy turbo), it's a small one on 1245cc, mine is only running 7psi at the moment, and for that this turbo is alright, I don't know yet what it does when I raise the boost, still waiting for my boost controller.
I had a TD5 16 G (EVO III) this turbo started to get boost at about 4500rpm, it had full boost at 5500rpm.
The VF20 hit's 7psi in the blink of an eye when it hits 4000rpm
I have no idea how the VF20 relates to TD numbers
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3 hours ago, CockneyRick said:
I spose the downside to doing this, is there's no off position?
Yes there is. It works like a normal tap, just without the vacuum.
I must say, like a normal tap if you do it properly, mine drips when on the off postion...
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On 6/21/2020 at 8:14 PM, buff said:
No I just preferred on hindsight the lower tune. Going to 1260 with billet basket and straight cuts/branch crank / efe head etc was a big outlay and didn't give me anything back really other than stretched chains, great if you wanted to add nitrous and go racing. But over kill to me for a road bike. I blame being an impressionable 18 year old and superbike magazine
With a big bore you don't need a billet clutch basket and all that stuff.
Personally I prefer an engine with a strong mid range, big bores are good for doing that..
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26 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said:
I guess slightly different tolerance / clearance in BE bearings will produce that effect - on way up both bearings are loaded so will top out at same time, then through the dwell period the pins move to opposite side of the bearing and it one has , say, +1 - 2 thou difference, it will move later than the other?
Maybe.. May be it's also the slightest difference in piston postion when the mixture is ignited..
Althought the difference in piston position is minimal, it is a bit in degrees on the crank
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My bike always had vibrations in the handle bars, now the vibrations are almost gone..
I must have something right with the crankshaft, I did take my time indexing it.
I put dial indicators on the pistons, and than rotate the crank, than look on the dial indicators when the pistons stop moving.
The weird thing was, if both pistons stop moving within 0.01 / 0.02mm on the clocks, and than rotate the crank through the dead point, it didn't automatically mean the pistons started moving at with the same rate
This is where I spend time to make that right. I checked the crank what I had, and this crank did had this problem. Apparently it does make a difference if you have this right.
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Oil pressure to turbo is under control now, made a new regulator with smaller internals, pressure is 20psi at idle, 40psi on higher revs.
Smoking is gone now, thank god, big relief.
It's registered, took it for a ride today, was good.
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On 6/19/2020 at 5:30 PM, CockneyRick said:
They all have a Vac, plus how did you disable yours?
Had a look today, put a screw in the center bottom hole, and take the vacuum thingy out and replace that with some rubber.
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The tap came in today, it's actually not a bad tap.
I made from 2 taps 1, it's not leaking anymore
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12 hours ago, buff said:
I went from 1170, to 1260 and wished I'd never bothered to be honest. Just my experience.
Did you get a higher CR? Hard to imagine you don't like it.. Or did you had different expectations?
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12 hours ago, imago said:
It's not so much a question of money (I don't mean blank cheque territory!) I have no idea what an additional three liners would cost. It's more a case of while it's in bits and going to cost a fair bit to sort is it worth spending the extra?
At the moment I'm leaning towards the Wiseco 1170 kit as it's tried and tested, and also easy to get a complete kit off the shelf.
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15 hours ago, imago said:
I'd like to keep it looking standard from the outside really. It's more a case of if I have to spend the money I might as well get a little extra, rather than wanting a big increase in power.
I've got a 1245cc on my GS1000, you don't see anything different from the outside.
The big bore makes it an incredible smooth engine with lots of torque from low revs, I can ride mine at around 2000 rpm without any problems.
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GS1000 Turbo, attempt no 2
in Forced Induction
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I had an AFR of 13, I ordered one size up from what I had in, but I put the next step up I had available, and they were too big, AFR is 10 with the jets I have in now.
New jets come in next monday, hopefully. Mail is bloody slow here, from the mainland to Tasmania usually takes a week.