Reinhoud

Got my cylinder block back today. These sleeves were about 1mm bigger in diameter than the old cylinderblock, so 0.5mm more wall thickness. Had to take a little bit out off the crankcase so the sleeves would fit in. These cylinders have a 78.27mm bore. 0.09mm piston/wall clearence.

Aha, it's indeed on the spots where dirt builds up. Damn, that was a waste of $380, $15 spraycans hold up better! Thanks.

Anyone here who has his exhaust manifold ceramic coated? I had mine coated last year, haven't done that many kms, but it looks like it starting to rust.. Now I like to know, is this normal? Or did the guy do a bad job? Thanks

Read your first post back, you mention pressure

I know..

Do we know that TS has 493 rods? Raising the pressure is almost impossible with the roller bearing cranks, tried that multiple times, pressure goes up when the engine is cold, drops to just as low as when stock. A restrictor in the feed line to the gearbox works slightly, a wider pump might work, in case your bike has the narrow (10mm) pump. I'm not familiar which models have the wider (14mm) pump. I made an wider oil pump, even that didn't raise the pressure..

I hear noone about the conrods... The real challenge... No idea what they can handle, I'm actually also curious what the air cooled engines can take, I'm not brave enough to try it, I already had a snapped con rod in the past.

Usually a RRFPR goes up with the boost, I did mean one like that.. https://www.fuelpumpsonline.co.uk/malpassi-turbo-fuel-pressure-regulator-fpr009-32-p.asp

Almost any fuel pump from a car with a bit of power, with EFI will do. You will need a rising rate fuel pressure regulator

A while back I bought rear sets for my GS1000 as I didn't like the position of the standard steps. I found a Raask set, but when I put them on I didn't like that position either! Then I used the actual steps and levers, but made the brackets what sets them in the position they are, myself.. My advice, if you're handy, cook something up yourself so you can set the position you like. My steps ended up about in the middle of both sets.

Ignition of a 850 fits too, runs nice. Used to be available plenty in the past, no clue how that is these days

Aussie dollar is pretty low at the moment I think, or the UK pound pretty strong. The headgasket I ordered the other day was quite a bit more expensive as the last one I got

Maybe useful for someone, the recon company bored up the cylinders of my GS1000 too big. Not too long ago I found a company in Australia who sells liners for a reasonable price. I've got the liners in the block now, cylinders need to be bored and honed to size still. The only other company I could find who sold liners is Dynoman.net, but they're a lot more expensive.. https://www.rpengines.com.au/sleeves/

Mine leaks from behind the cylinders, this accumilates while riding, then when I parked it on the side stand it all comes out of the drain from where the startermotor sits. It also looks like it loeks from the alternator cover...

Correct, with a die grinder, and a grinding stone and flap wheel (on the diegrinder) Make base gasket fit the cylinders, and then use that gasket as a template. It's a bit of work..