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644 ExcellentAbout Reinhoud
- Birthday 11/23/1974
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Tasmania
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Reinhoud started following Dyna 2000 ignition, how good is it?
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Gentlemen, I've got a Dyna 2000 ignition on my bike (GS1000) for about 13 years now, only done about 20.000km. I've heard different stories about it, one says it's good, the other says it's crap. Lately my bike has some weird problems, after a while, when the engine is properly on operating temperature, it gets the symptoms of an empty tank. First I thought it starved of fuel, couldn't find anything, but of she went again, like nothing happened. This happened a couple of times. 3 days ago it happened again, but a bit different, this made me think it's the ignition. Took it for another test ride, and again, it started run like s**t. Turn the ignition off, wait 30 seconds, start it, and it goes like nothing happened. I took the trigger off, cleaned it, had some oil on it, tested it with a multimeter and a heat gun, seems alright. No expert by any means with electronics. Resistance drops, but not a lot, from 940 to 810. Today same problems, turn her off for 30 seconds, and afterwards she went again like nothing happened. So I thought, how far will it go now? About twice as far as first, but it started to run like s**t again, but much worse! Again symptoms of any empty tank, pulled fuel hose off, plenty of petrol coming out, pulled spark lead off, it sparked... After about 5 minutes she took off like nothing happened... Just found this. Anyone knows if this is true? I've got a Dyna 2000 with 4 1.5 Ohm coils Now my number 1 suspect is the ignition module, because after turning it on and off it goes ok again. A stuffed trigger or coil wouldn't do this? Would it? Also, when my GS wouldn't start, I have to turn the ignition off and on again, and then it will fire up My question, people who had problems with their Dyna 2000's, what sort of problems did you have? I have an ignition of a GS850 lying around, I'm going to put that in to see what happens. Thanks
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For a Suzuki GS750 Katana, the typical valve clearance is between 0.07mm to 0.12mm (approximately 0.003" to 0.005") for both intake and exhaust valves, though it's crucial to always consult your specific motorcycle service manual for the most accurate specifications. For a Suzuki 1100 Katana, the typical valve clearance is around 0.10mm (0.004 inches) for the intake valves and 0.15mm (0.006 inches) for the exhaust valves; however, always consult your specific motorcycle's service manual for the most accurate specifications as slight variations may exist depending on the model year.
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Electrolisys is the best way to get rust out of a tank, it's slow, but works really well
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I usually look on Eblag, so far so good with the suppliers
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I bet that that exhaust has the oldskool raw sound, what no modern bike can beat!
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This topic got me curious... I measured the rake of my GS1000, and I measured 22 degrees, I measured it in different ways, same result very time.. All I changed is a shorter front fork (2006 GSXR600) and raised the back a little.. And it still doesn't handle like a GSXR
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I've been told that even the GSXR headers fit... But I nevwr tried personally
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I fine tuned the off set with another spacer, between bearing and sprocket. Use a laser!!! Looks ok when you do it with strings, till you check it with a laser. Laser on the front sprocket, measure on the center of the rear sprocket. After that check everything with the laser again.blockquote widget
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9200rpm to do 320km/h is actually pretty low revving...
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You'll need a lathe and a press. Also, the stops most likely need to be modified, look into that before you damage the tank. Got a 2006 GSXR600 front fork in my GS1000
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Don't buy those cheap sets!! Some gaskets may be alright, but some gaskets will most likely leak. Cometic sells good quality gaskets. There's a company, USA I think, that sells a reasonable quality gasket, all seperate. they're blue, don't know the name.. They're reasonably priced too
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The GS1000 loves a ported / gasflowed head! It also loves a big bore and/with higher CR, a set of cams with at least 1mm more lift.. What Swiss Toni says, check the tensioner, or better, replace it with a manual one straight away.
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Got my cylinder block back today. These sleeves were about 1mm bigger in diameter than the old cylinderblock, so 0.5mm more wall thickness. Had to take a little bit out off the crankcase so the sleeves would fit in. These cylinders have a 78.27mm bore. 0.09mm piston/wall clearence.
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Aha, it's indeed on the spots where dirt builds up. Damn, that was a waste of $380, $15 spraycans hold up better! Thanks.