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I've got a 750W at home, but I'm not at home right now. Currently dealing with a dementia parent and not sure when I'll get home to double check my collection of petcocks. Also really trying to get a bike back on the road here so I can get away for a couple hours at a time and get a break from them. I noticed that 1100W petcocks look pretty damn similar to slingshot petcocks, and Pingel sells the same kit for all the GSXR 1100s. So do OEM W petcocks fit slingshots? My US 92 750 came with a shitty aftermarket single outlet petcock that is impossible to switch over to reserve while riding, and too many times I've had to pull over to switch it over or ran out of gas because I keep it on reserve constantly now. But looking online, I'm seeing that slingshot and W 750 petcocks are all about the same price, $185 here in the states, and 1100W petcocks are at least $50 cheaper. Like there's still a lot of new old stock sitting on shelves out there.

Better pic of the 750.

Here's my 750,

That's an 1100N engine, wheels, brakes and forks in an HUC frame, Gasoline ally noisy bastard pipes but I'm gonna baffle them down a bit. I was gonna just put a run of the mill seat on it with the usual 2 springs but TBH they're not that great, got 2 bobber things already with them fitted, XVS 650 and a savage 650 single. Seen on the net a nice setup with a single leaf spring but cannot find anything for sale. Has anyone got any clue where I might get, thanks to all replies.

God damn, a Pingel with the adaptor plate is the same price as an OEM petcock now. Both are $185 here in the states. Thinking I’ll go OEM because stock carbs and I really miss having a working reserve.

All back together and still leaks. There was some pretty bad oxidation in part of the internals that I couldn’t see until I get the brass seal out. Not terribly surprised it’s shot. Damn ethanol.

No probs. I’m far from an expert but being a huge fan who’s had several constantly over 20 years a few things sink in. None of the early changes are a real game changer, but worth knowing if you are ordering parts or modding stuff. A few early alloy subframes cracked hence the change to steel, but now performance junkies actually want the lighter alloy one. The ECU / rotor swap is normally due to software like Woolich being for the 02 onwards and offering options a Powercommander doesn’t. Just be aware you can’t directly mix the 3 Gen-1 ECU’s or different PowerCommanders, 99-00 then 01 then 02-07. I’ve had bikes with welded and billet BTL’s and I can’t tell them apart, I just don’t have anyone local I trust to weld mine and have heard of a few welded ones occasionally breaking. Much as modern bikes with high tech are frowned upon, in the case of the Busa there’s so much that swaps and changes, there’s a direct and slow evolution with Hayabusa’s which brings many benefits.

@Tony NitrousI know fook all about busa's so thanks for the ecu info all information is welcome. This one has an external fuel pump which I am thinking is a good thing when it comes to turbo time .

Probably has to do with trying to balance mid range and emissions then. I've had a DRZ, the stock carb is pretty damn restrictive, even with a jet kit.

not a fan of the busa (or any faired bike) but they are a beast, rode a few over the years. did a 140mph on a customers bike once on a coast road near me and was only in 3rd fecking gear he said it wouldn't rev out !!!!!! not a lot i could do really

A lot of guys weld up the BTL that spoils hard launches, I prefer the drop in billet one. I’ve heard mention of it cracking around the clutch slave cylinder case and needing a brace, but I’ve never had a drama. Either way, factory clutch is nice, but not for aggressive launches.

Nice ! I’ve had a few. Not sure how clue’d up you are on them ? Early bikes 99-00 and 01 had two different ECU’s, 16 Bit not 32. It’s common to upgrade to the 02-07 model 32 bit one to get them flashed. Early bikes had alloy subframes. Early bikes had external fuel pumps. Only real issue with the Gen-1’s (apart from the 6 pots) is their occasional habit of eating second gear. B-King is Gen-2 so a bit different. Im a huge Busa Fan, I have gen 1, 2, 3 and a B-King sat here, I will watch with interest.

Only lives 9 miles away likes beer and a laugh has a lot of interesting stuff in his stash. Had a lot of laughs over the year's .

You having mate who's in the bike trade is like Keith Richards being mates with Pablo Escobar. Nice bike though, I know they're not everyone's cup of tea but I quite like them.

Curiosity got the better of me so put me bottle of beer down and picked up an Allen key wiped the right side faring off. Pressed the go button again, fired straight up again shone a torch in down towards back of oil cooler and as I thought it's pissing oil out the cooler it's self. New cooler on the shopping list then .

Fooking ell I fitted a battery I had knocking about pressed the go button and it fired up then pissed oil all over the floor. I know the bike has been sat in a shed in Scotland for the last 9 year's. Will have a better look tomorrow but am well happy with that .

Just measured the spring. But I can't seem to find what the length should be..it's not in the manual and I can't find it on the net. Would any of you guys/girls know at all?

It's not in bad condition mate and it was cheap as chips got it of a mate that's a dealer, it's one of the very first one's as well also the first one I have owned.

Looks tidy mate, haven't had one but had a b king and the engines an absolute peach

This might help be of use to you?

I picked a 1999 Hayabusa up this afternoon (25 years old ) cheap as its a none runner so I thought best started it's own thread. Plan is. 1. Get it running. 2. Upgrade forks and shock. 3. Upgrade brakes. 4. Fit lighter wheels. 5. Turbo it . Sounds easy peasy don't it .

The trailing piston (Top on a motor cycle) is smaller as the pad is hotter and will wear more quickly if you have the same pressure as the leading edge causeing the pad to taper.

Looks great,as does the oil cooled hard tail behind it

Yep. Well I'm hoping i can pull the crank down enough to pull the guide out. I realy don't want to split the cylinder head from the barrels . In the meantime time I'm going to measure the tensioner spring and maybe push it in one click. I'm also looking at another gsxr11 project. Sadly I need to get my engine done as I don't want to miss any shows

Well you'll find out on the way to total teardown Being there recently, thats a place i dont want to return to !