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That was my first thought. Id take the filter out and have a look/cut it up. Hopefully all the filter media is still in the filter.

Yes oem

di you use genuine O rings on the drain tubes ? none genuine ones are known to leak.

Can you stick some kitchen roll on the suspected areas and spin the motor over? Might give you a better idea of where its coming from.

Well, got a bit of time yesterday to do a bit of work on the gsx1100f Hellcat as it was running and just needed a bit of tweaking before I moved, I decided I'd fire it up balance the carbs etc. But after it warmed up it started pissing oil out but can't quite tell if it's from the base gasket or the oil drain pipe (LHS) It wasn't leaking before, so not sure if the new o rings in the drain pipe has just gone hard as it's had a couple of warm ups before it got put into storage or what. Any ideas before I start taking the engine out?

Thats a new one for me,never experienced that problem in 35yrs of oil boilers.Only the opposite when sump swapping,hopefully someone can help.

1200 Possible high oil pressure Hello, I'm new here & hoping someone might be able to shed some light on what's happened to my motor! I've got a mk1 1200 bandit engine in a hardtail frame. The engine had stood for 20 years when got it & had only 2000 miles on it. I've had it on the road for 2 years & 4000 miles with no problems. A couple of weeks ago I changed the oil and filter, replacing the champion filter that was fitted with a hiflo filtro one that I had in the cupboard. I then went out on the bike & after 4 miles pulled over to check for leaks, oil was being pushed out of the breather & dripping off the cooler. By the time I got it back home the cooler was split & spraying oil out. The cooler was an after market one of unknown origin but had done 4000 miles with no problem. My initial thought was a faulty filter causing a build up of pressure in the cooler but now I'm not so sure & an thinking possibly a stuck oil pressure regulator in the sump. Has anyone heard if anything like this happening? I've ordered a HEL cooler but don't want to fit until I'm sure what's caused the problem. Cheers in advance!

Hey upshot thanks for the reply. Just got back in after solving it by putting the new barrel into the old housing. All good now.

Good news! The parts I ordered from https://www.motorcycleproducts.co.uk/brake-caliper-boots-suzuki-59312-49000/1/001089 arrived and are a correct fit. The description said they were in packs of five, but I didn't trust that and went ahead and ordered four to be safe. They are indeed packs of five so I have a copious amount of dust boots. I will keep a backup set for myself, but if anybody else has the same trouble in the future, let me know and I might be able to hook you up. I agree that Partzilla is good and is one of the first places I look. Thanks for all the help!

Find a wiring diagram and you can swap the wires around in the plug to the correct order. Or I think you can remove the electrical part of the and swap them between ignitions.

Engine was out of the bike, do you have the signal pickup plugged in? I'd start with pulling the cover off the pickup and working your way from there to the CDI and then to the coils and plugs. Hopefully it's something simple like that.

Hi guys, new bandit 600 owner (2000) here looking for help with a new ignition switch as the old one was buggered. I have the 'correct' part but it seems to be an NC rather than NO as per the original. This means all the functions are reversed and I have to turn the key to parking light position to get it to start. Is there a way that I can reverse or rewire the connector to get it to behave normally? I've seen thousands of these switches sold online but for the life of me cannot find a solition yet, so any help you can give would be ace. Thanks!

Fresh plugs. Tried new ngks. No spark on any cylinder.

Yes I've heard the same thing that the 55 profile helps the handling. Thanks for the reply

It's a 190/50x17 which I belive is standard on these. I've read that fitting a 190/55x17 on these inproves the handling by helping it tip into corners better as the forks are a bit short for dropping through the yokes.

Can I ask a quick question. What size tyre using the rear tyre in this picture? The reason I ask a silly question, is because you see some rear wheels and the rims look really wide and others (same wheel) don't? I'm thinking it's because some have a 50 profile and some have a 55 or 60? Thanks

Don't use plugs, not designed for the engine! Just because they fit, doesn't mean they will work correctly! Iridium plugs are designed for and suited to, fuel injected lean burn engines. In a carb'd engine they never run lean enough to burn off contaminates and fail too easily. Their use in turbo'd applications is moody also - due to the heat and cylinder pressures the Iridium tip can glow and lead to pre-ignition and detonation with all the good stuff that usually produces

Yeah, not a perfect fit, I think you need to juggle the mounts and the fairing trim. We had two Gen-1’s at a meet and couldn’t work out why there were minor visual differences, one had a Gen-2 tank. I’ll try mine next time I’m in the shed.

@Tony Nitrousso you say the mk2 tank fits the mk1. Useful information that .

I’ve been using Partzilla in the USA. https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/suzuki/motorcycle I do use suppliers in the UK and AU too but Partzilla have sourced stuff the others can’t. I’m rural Australia so the postage is a bit salty but they are very easy to deal with, can get a huge range of stuff, and their tracking is very good. EDIT: Sorry. As you said, “unavailable” https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/suzuki/motorcycle/1983/gs1100es/front-calipers Same here in Australia… https://www.mickhone.com.au/partFinder/fiche/suzuki/1983/gsx1100es/front-calipers#next

Wish you were closer. I have a very clean Gen-2 tank (it’ll fit), a store near me helps me out with stuff that comes off insurance claims, some of it is very minor cosmetics, hard to even spot. I have almost full sets of Gen-1 and Gen-2 plastics, wheels, lights etc etc.

Right, OK, genuine new NGK Iridium plugs(yes, I can spot the counterfeits, they are getting harder to spot, but don't contain iridium!), from Deemon Tweeks. Absoulte 100% genuine. Swapped out to NGK CR9EK. Boom, ran straight up(no #3 not getting as hot as the other pots using my laser heat gun!). Checked the TD T-150 3351017E11 plug caps, all between 10.4 - 11. Checked the ignition coil 17E00 J0291 / 129700-2910 windings resistiance from plug to plug, with & without caps. All OK. Decided The expensive iridium CR9EIX plugs are not suited to this old Girl! Need to get it hot & re-check pot #3! I will do a cylinder efficency test & a compression test next. Need to make an end to fit the tester pipes. Guess I found a buse for the CR9EIX in the end(waste of money). So, what have we learned from this fiasco?? To be fair, this post has lead me down the right path, thanks to the creator. 10/10