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About Crass

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    Ball Peen Hammer

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  1. Crass

    Simple cheap upgrades, read on...

    You need a K&N sticker - adds at least 5bhp for pennies
  2. Crass

    Shock linkage bearings

    Wemoto do Slinky Glide. Used them in an L, several thousand miles later still good.
  3. And if you do need a steering damper you can get a Toby damper to fit these bikes. Good quality and it's rebuildable, so it will last. It's worth bearing in mind that a steering damper is only second to a K&N sticker for increasing your speed .
  4. Crass

    Diaphragm cover

    You've got the right part number there, which maybe suggests the carbs are not the originals for that bike, so the 1992 spec part is not correct?
  5. Crass

    cam pitting

    Personally I don't buy the old oil story. Cams are case hardened so if the oil were that acidic to burn holes in them the entire rest of the motor would have dissolved. My understanding has always been similar to Gixer1460's. Some cams have less than perfect casting and the case hardening does not adhere well to certain small spots and comes loose and you get a pit. I have a bike (of another make) I've owned from new which has a couple of pits on the cams. They have never got any worse so now cause me no concern. The pit holds a pool of oil so, unless it is that large that it seriously reduces the area of contact between the cam and the follower, this pool of oil sort of compensates for the loss of metal surface. The contact area will always be much larger than the area of the pit (unless it is so bad the cam is fubared) so the rocker is well supported by the surrounding metal as the pit passes and the pool of oil provides extra lubrication, like a wick. I wouldn't worry about pits that don't change. Now a scored cam is an entirely different matter.
  6. Crass

    Before I go and buy this one...

    Had to chuckle at the irony of a set of wheels mainly intended for slow moving Hogs being called 'chicane'
  7. Crass

    Short Stoke Big Bore

    There must be a reasonable amount of difference though surely, as I thought that an 1100 motor in a 750 frame meant you couldn't get the rocker cover off, valve clearance time you need to take the motor out. Surely with an 1100 motor in an 1100 frame you don't need to do that so the frame must be different. Wasn't the steering geometry not different on the 11, suggesting the headstock angle is different? Personally I would think you would notice the 1100 frame on the road, hence why the popular mod is 7/11 to retain the better handling 750 frame - no?
  8. Crass

    Removing Front Sprocket Nut

    It's off! I have my reservations about an electric impact shifting that one. Cut through nut a bit at a time, tried the breaker bar again - nowt. Repeat several times. Finally gave in when about 2mm of uncut nut remained, and then because the nut split. Replacement nut a few quid from breakers, so cheap solution.
  9. Crass

    Removing Front Sprocket Nut

    Well this fucker ain't moving! Tried the wood through wheel, took wheel off and pinned chain around axle and tried that. Nada. There's too much spring / stretch in the chain to crack the nut. Tried heat. Tried walloping the socket with the breaker bar on the nut under tension. Nowt. A new nut is only £14, cheaper than an impact gun I'm unlikely to use again. I'll dremel it carefully and split it off. Easy job made hard, doncha love it.
  10. Crass

    Removing Front Sprocket Nut

    That sounds like a plan Riding to the bike shop not an option, SORNed for the winter and oil dropped ready for the seal removal.
  11. Crass

    Removing Front Sprocket Nut

    I need to replace the output shaft oil seal on my 750L Slingy, which would be an easy job if I could get the nut off the front sprocket. I've tried the bike in gear, rear brake on trick and with a wheel wrench with a socket it still isn't moving, there's too much spring in the chain to get things rock solid enough to crack it loose. I know it's not properly seized as I only replaced the sprocket about 6k ago and torqued the nut on properly, it came off no problem then. I tried a bit of heat from a heat gun but no change. An impact driver would no doubt shift it but I don't have one and I'm reluctant to fork out for something I don't really need. Any more 'conventional' tricks I could try? Possibly LOTS of heat?
  12. Crass

    help needed with electrical issue

    Pipped at the post! What he said though.
  13. Crass

    help needed with electrical issue

    Sounds like connections to me or a dodgy wire. When you do the swap you disturb the wiring, which 'fixes' it for a while before it plays up again soon after. Probably something loose or a wire which is internally fractured but makes a connection a bit of the time. Have a thorough check of all the connectors and wiring which will be getting disturbed.
  14. Crass

    GSX600F tyre choice

    RTFR = Read The Fucking Rules
  15. Crass

    GSX600F tyre choice

    Oh dear, I can see a RTFR lockdown coming up.......