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1127 crank into 1052


Sandman

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Posted
15 hours ago, manden said:

What mods will it take to install the 68mm crank?

Probably a whole different set of CNC billet crankcases! Mine has a +5mm stroke and the cases needed some grinding to give the rods spaceĀ ;)

Posted

im really thinking of buying an say what now!? case and an 68mm crank and have it as a winter project. it would be awesome with 68mm stroke, its like an busa.

Posted
35 minutes ago, manden said:

im really thinking of buying an say what now!? case and an 68mm crank and have it as a winter project. it would be awesome with 68mm stroke, its like an busa.

Nice project - my crank was Ā£1800 15 odd years ago - no CNC all manual turning and milling. A set of billet cases........ maybe Ā£5000 - maybe triple that! What size pistons are you considering 81mm? Lot of dosh for just 1400cc!

Posted

im currently running 78mm pistons, and would like to keep thje bore as small as possible to be able to run 95 octane. i hope to do all the work my self and keep cost "realistic"

Posted

Bandit 1250 crank has 64mm stroke. Con rod big end same size as busa/gsxr/bandit1200. Mains are smaller in diameter so weld up cases and line bore. Havenā€™t dropped one in a set of gsxr cases yet to see any issues but will be doing it soon.Ā (y)

  • Like 2
Posted

haha. same bore spacing and all. thats what the 68mm got going for it. it appears as its only the snout that differs between the 58mm gsxr and the 68mm gsx1400 cranks. am i wrong?

Posted

I would have to cross reference part numbers to check all that out. My feeling is the 1400 crank is going to be physically big. Not just throw wise but also web diameters. Custom cases I would think. Check 1400 clutch part numbers to see if things cross over there too as that may be an area that doesnā€™t help with the primary drive if itā€™s different.Ā 

Posted

As shown on the Picture, one of the cam lobes and rocker arms are worn out. Fortunately, I got a race ported and shimmed head with stiffer valve springs and a set of webcam camshafts laying around.

I also need to grind off the bottom crank to get correct clearance between rod no. 3 and the crank case. Rest of the work should be straight forward, just having to order new crankshaft and rod bearing.

Posted (edited)

I think the lash has been adjusted wrongly. I dont know where its supposed to hit the ramp, but its quite important that it hits the right place.

Edited by manden
Posted

Fundamental tappet / valve clearance gap adjustment is always made to have the recommended gap located between point of minimum lift on the cam which conversely occurs when its paired cylinder is at maximum valve lift. Just remembering that - its difficult to get wrong!

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