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rs 36 set up on 1260 kat.


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hello chaps and chapesses

anyone got some guidence for me on jet sizes and needle settings for my 1260 kat its got a flowed head and lumpy cams too if that makes a difference. the bugger stinks of fuel on the exhaust and the oil did too when changed. i think it must be running rich somewhere in the rev range. currently has 17.5 pilot 140 mains 3rd clip down on needle. accel pump set to start 1/4 throttle and stop at 3/4.

 

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I am by far no Mikuni guru but this is what I'm running on a 1230 Efe,flowed head.....132 mains..17.5 pilots..9 air jets..3rd clip needle..floats standard with foam pod filters....I had all sorts of flooding issues but the air jets worked a treat....

I'm booked in for a dyno which should see if I have it somewhere near.

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You disable the pump as it clouds what the main is actually doing - once the MJ is correct you re-enable the pump. A wideband is a really useful accessory and can help avoiding a dyno. A workshop lambda won't really help as the motor can't be run under load like on the road or on a dyno.

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Well the carbs are back from being ultrasonic cleaned and the new leads have turned up along with the denso plugs. Cleaned the pod filters but looking to get some stacks. Some pics along with one of the spsce where they live.

 

 

 

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Edited by Swampy
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Because the pump is injecting fuel into your cylinders, it gives extra fuel, therefore you can't properly adjust your carbies with the pump enabled.

 

An O2 sensor is a bit of an investment, but you won't regret it. And if you don't want to use it anymore, you sell it. 

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you should keep the pump disabled till the mains and needle are set as the needle also affects 1/4 to 3/4 throttle, the easiest way is to screw the pump stop screw that's go through the carb top in so the pump doesn't open at all 

Edited by dago
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carbs rejetted to 137.5 refitted and the new leads are on. good job to as the old ones where proper dying. they were fitted by the p.o and he had folded the core, over the top of terminal crimp instead of inside.

also gave it an oil and filter change at same time. another p.o oversight,notiiced when lubing cable, was the fact that the clutch lifter lever clevis was a tooth out on the spline. causing the the cable to be pulled off centre and have bugger all free play or adjustment. sorting this made the clutch operstion a lot smoother.

bike is running sweet, but may need to drop the needle a notch. but i think i may take it to the dyno to diagnose that. still looking around at a/f meters though.

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