Swampy Posted June 18, 2017 Posted June 18, 2017 hello chaps and chapesses anyone got some guidence for me on jet sizes and needle settings for my 1260 kat its got a flowed head and lumpy cams too if that makes a difference. the bugger stinks of fuel on the exhaust and the oil did too when changed. i think it must be running rich somewhere in the rev range. currently has 17.5 pilot 140 mains 3rd clip down on needle. accel pump set to start 1/4 throttle and stop at 3/4. Quote
Sheep Posted June 18, 2017 Posted June 18, 2017 I am by far no Mikuni guru but this is what I'm running on a 1230 Efe,flowed head.....132 mains..17.5 pilots..9 air jets..3rd clip needle..floats standard with foam pod filters....I had all sorts of flooding issues but the air jets worked a treat.... I'm booked in for a dyno which should see if I have it somewhere near. 1 Quote
Swampy Posted June 18, 2017 Author Posted June 18, 2017 please keep me updated. didnt check air jet size. doh! Quote
Reinhoud Posted June 18, 2017 Posted June 18, 2017 First thing you do is disable the acceleration pump, than you stick an O2 sensor in your exhaust, and read on an A/F gauge what your A/F is, than you see where and how much your mixture is of.. Quote
Swampy Posted June 18, 2017 Author Posted June 18, 2017 ok thanks. but why the need to disable pump? only prob is i dont have an O2 sensor or an A/F meter. so will have to hunt down a workshop that has one or a dyno near Croydon. Quote
Gixer1460 Posted June 18, 2017 Posted June 18, 2017 You disable the pump as it clouds what the main is actually doing - once the MJ is correct you re-enable the pump. A wideband is a really useful accessory and can help avoiding a dyno. A workshop lambda won't really help as the motor can't be run under load like on the road or on a dyno. 1 Quote
Swampy Posted June 18, 2017 Author Posted June 18, 2017 i am probably being thick when i say this. but the 'wideband' you refer to is it regarding the spead of power the carbs deliver or a piece of tooling i am ignorant too. or somthing else entirely. Quote
Fazz711 Posted June 18, 2017 Posted June 18, 2017 I think he is referring to a wideband lambda sensor. But I may be wrong 1 Quote
Gixer1460 Posted June 18, 2017 Posted June 18, 2017 1 hour ago, Fazz711 said: I think he is referring to a wideband lambda sensor. But I may be wrong Correct! Look up Innovate for good kit. Quote
Swampy Posted June 18, 2017 Author Posted June 18, 2017 (edited) Well the carbs are back from being ultrasonic cleaned and the new leads have turned up along with the denso plugs. Cleaned the pod filters but looking to get some stacks. Some pics along with one of the spsce where they live. Edited June 18, 2017 by Swampy 2 Quote
Reinhoud Posted June 20, 2017 Posted June 20, 2017 Because the pump is injecting fuel into your cylinders, it gives extra fuel, therefore you can't properly adjust your carbies with the pump enabled. An O2 sensor is a bit of an investment, but you won't regret it. And if you don't want to use it anymore, you sell it. Quote
Swampy Posted June 20, 2017 Author Posted June 20, 2017 ok sounds like a good idea as I have rs36 on my zed as well, any links anyone? Quote
dago Posted June 21, 2017 Posted June 21, 2017 (edited) you should keep the pump disabled till the mains and needle are set as the needle also affects 1/4 to 3/4 throttle, the easiest way is to screw the pump stop screw that's go through the carb top in so the pump doesn't open at all Edited June 21, 2017 by dago 1 Quote
Swampy Posted June 21, 2017 Author Posted June 21, 2017 thanks for the tip. mains are currently 140. but have ordered a set of 137.5 to try out. Quote
Swampy Posted June 24, 2017 Author Posted June 24, 2017 carbs rejetted to 137.5 refitted and the new leads are on. good job to as the old ones where proper dying. they were fitted by the p.o and he had folded the core, over the top of terminal crimp instead of inside. also gave it an oil and filter change at same time. another p.o oversight,notiiced when lubing cable, was the fact that the clutch lifter lever clevis was a tooth out on the spline. causing the the cable to be pulled off centre and have bugger all free play or adjustment. sorting this made the clutch operstion a lot smoother. bike is running sweet, but may need to drop the needle a notch. but i think i may take it to the dyno to diagnose that. still looking around at a/f meters though. Quote
Sheep Posted June 25, 2017 Posted June 25, 2017 Try AEM's UEGO wideband meter...I had one of these on a car and found them very good if a little pricey. Quote
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