Setting cam timing

[Sheep]

I haven't yet purchased any slotted spockets BUT if you guys think that it wouldn't be necessary then I wont.All the bike is for is a solid reliable road bike/general hoon about with possibly a bore increase to 1230cc but that depends on what I find when I slide the barrels off.  (I'm working without a day off at the moment so that wont be till Monday maybe.)

[Arttu]

At least it's a good idea to check what the stock timing actually is on your engine. A couple of air cooled engines that I have checked have been about 10 degrees off from factory spec with stock parts...

[Reinhoud]

On 12/9/2016 at 0:23 AM, vizman said:

i would've thought stock/mild cam more suited for street forced induction....but then i've never had anything but stock on my (street) turbos.

I had webcams grind 119 in the GS1000, 2mm more lift if I'm right, timing should be close to stock. (if that is possible with more lift)

That the bike had forced induction is not relevant, just wanted to share my experience.

With "on boost hardly any difference", I mean, doesn't matter what the cam timing was, on boost the power was almost the same

[Reinhoud]

On 12/9/2016 at 9:33 AM, Leblowski said:

I am running 108/110 on my oilcooled 1216 tried a lot of diff settings.

108/110 was best in keeping torgue until 8000 rpm i wanted a nice steady torgueline as long as possible

All other settings i tried where worse, it all depends on what behaviour you want.

 

What where your experiences with different timing?

[Gixer1460]

On 12/8/2016 at 9:46 AM, Reinhoud said:

You don't need a degree wheel to determine your TDC.

Totally agree but as you'll generally be doing timing or adjustment where the degree wheel will be requirement then why not use it and remove the possibility of introduced errors between relying on a tape measure and a degree wheel? Personal preference is use one scale for multiple measurement / setting.

With regard turning engine backwards and forwards it doesn't make much difference as long as you remember to approach the measure point from the same direction each time ie. wind it backwards at least 1/4 turn past the point and then wind it forward - this takes all the backlash out so can be relied upon - it works for me! 

[Reinhoud]

21 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:

Totally agree but as you'll generally be doing timing or adjustment where the degree wheel will be requirement then why not use it and remove the possibility of introduced errors between relying on a tape measure and a degree wheel? Personal preference is use one scale for multiple measurement / setting.

With regard turning engine backwards and forwards it doesn't make much difference as long as you remember to approach the measure point from the same direction each time ie. wind it backwards at least 1/4 turn past the point and then wind it forward - this takes all the backlash out so can be relied upon - it works for me! 

Yep, but it's just a way to make it a little bit more fool proof, if you have the marks on the fly wheel, you have a good reference/starting point, so you can focus more on the cam timing..

I can be a little chaotic sometimes.  Focusing on one point, and then forgetting to give other things the attention they need.. If you get what I mean.

[Leblowski]

3 hours ago, Reinhoud said:

What where your experiences with different timing?

First of all i am speaking about camtiming on a turbo'd bike wich i forgot to mention peeps.

My experience was that playing with camtiming you can chance the behaviour of the engine.

I had very peeky behaviour high torgue but it dropped after 6000 rpm with standard camtiming.

Then shifter timing up and down i discovered i could influence torgue.

FFcourse i also noticed that there was difference in bhp output and torque output.

I wanted as much torgue as long as possible wich i achieved with 108/110

btw i always use a gauche and degreewheel for Tdc couldnt live without them

Edited December 10, 2016 by Leblowski

[Gribley]

A useful tip when doing the valve timing. Fit the degree wheel to  the ignition end of the crank backwards ie with the numbers facing the engine. Then when you turn the engine with a socket on the alternator nut you can see the degree wheel without having to keep walking to the other side of the bike

[markfoggy]

Next useful tip. So you've got the cams in roughly where you want them on stardardish timing and you now want to get them dialed accurately. So you slacken the bolts and start knocking the crank round in standard direction to come up to the required position, but it's very easy to over rotate which could make it necessary to rotate the engine the wrong way. Now you haven't got the rubber block in the cam cover, restricting chain lash between the wheels And worse, the rear blade that the tensioner bears on, does bugger all if you go in the wrong direction ( the lead-ins are all wrong for a start).  The chances of skipping a tooth on the inlet cam are very high and it's very annoying 'cause you will have to do it all again. Worse yet if you don't notice and try to diagnose a motor that simply won't run right.

So cable tie the chain onto the wheels at about 10-30 and 1-30 of the hour hand on a standard clock face. Saves a world of bother.

[alexl]

On 12/5/2016 at 8:11 PM, KATANAMANGLER said:

Try This

thats comprehensive