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36-1 trigger microsquirt


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Posted

Anyone have a magic spell to get them to work? Ive spent the last 4 hours trying every possible gap, swapping wires round and still cant get a reading in my datalogs. I had 1 log that showed a trace from the sensor but without touching a thing it disappeared again!

The engine is a 750m, N/A and Im using the standard VR sensor with a 36-1 wheel with Microsquirt. Loom mocked up with wago connectors and running shielded wires back to the ecu Using VR input 1. Help!!

Posted (edited)

Had problems with mine missing the gap as the engine speed slowed on the compression stroke.

 

Take the plugs out and see if it picks it up when cranking.

Edited by Danm54
Posted

There have been more than a couple of engines that have used a 36-1 trigger wheel paired with std inductive pick-up so that shouldn't be an issue - Triggerwheels.com do a 50mm 36-1 that has been tested to 17k rpm with a good trace. I don't know that much about the Megasquirt set ups so can't really advise - sorry!

Posted

It's a 50mm wheel I'm using, just can't get a reliable signal going. I have got one plug out though so I don't know if that'll affect it. 

I'll take the other three out and report back...

Posted

Like already suggested try first cranking without plugs. That makes cranking speed more stable so the ECU can detect the missing tooth easier. If that helps then you can start playing with missing tooth timing to get it working with plugs in.

Even though many guys have got 50mm 36-1 wheel working with STD pickup I think it's getting quite small for that big tooth number. So I wouldn't be surprised if it wouldn't work with some individual pickup.

Btw, have you already updated the MS2-extra firmware to the Microsquirt? If not, I would recommend doing it right now. That may not help with the trigger issue (though it may help too) but anyways it will make your life much easier later on.

 

Posted

I have a 36-1 on a bandit motor with the stock pickup and no issues.

Where is your missing tooth located? From memory tooth #1 should be around 60-80 degrees BTDC (don't quote me on that, it's in the manual somewhere) for an inline 4 as the crank speed in this position is the most consistent. Like others have said, running without plugs should mask this problem for now.

Is your sensor gap similar to the stock set up?

What type of trigger wheel do you have? The width of the tooth should be about the same as the sensor pickup to give a precise signal for the ecu.

Posted

Just spun turned it over with the plugs out and the rpm gauge in tuner studio briefly registered cranking speed. The line on the datalog was all over the place and then went flat >:(

Heres my setup for info. I'm sure I'm doing something wrong but I can't suss the bloody thing

image.jpeg

Posted

Update tunerstudio and make sure you're on the latest firmware of ms2 extra.

Id even re flash the ecu just to make sure you're on the correct firmware.

 

These ecu's are real fussy on firmware.

Posted
Just now, busa ash said:

hows the exhaust fitting dave ?

Spot on mate, need to shorten the link pipe a touch and get some springs for it, get the bastard thing running and it's done!

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Quick update;

On Dan and Jacks advice, I've reflashed the ECU to the latest fireware, gapped the VR sensor properly AND tightened the screws properly so the gap doesnt close up!!

As I didnt have a tune in the ecu, just basic sensor calibrations, I'll have to re-do them Just calibrated the TPS for now. 

Without going into ANY of the settings to check, I stabbed the starter button and WAHEY a signal! Strong and consistant too. Was until I tried to datalog it anyway. Doesnt seem to want to know again.

Can someone point me in the right direction for what I should be setting the basic ignition settings at? Im usuing a Bosch 211 ignitor and Denso 129700-4800 coils off a K4 GSXR

This is really beginning to burn my head out now. Could get a lovely set of flatties for what this lot would sell for.....

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  • Like 1
Posted

Before I saw your post above I was about to say that the gap width to tooth width looks to narrow - usually most gaps should be wider and deeper than the tooth is wide. But as its now working, I guess its not critical here!

Posted

Problem now is that it'll do this once. If i stop cranking and then start again i get nothing. If i power down and then power back up again it works again but only once. I KNOW it'll be something daft.

Posted
On 4 July 2016 at 7:06 AM, Danm54 said:

Have you tried with the trigger wheel in a drill to eliminate any starter motor interference?

I did ages ago and everything seemed tickety boo, speak to Jack, I think I may have flashed the ECU with the wrong firmware. So I'll ref lash that and see what's happening.

i can get a pretty consistent signal now, but only on first stab of the button. If I crank it then stop and crank again I don't get a signal from the second crank. I have to cut power to the ms and then power up again before I get the stable reading again. 

Hoping it's the firmware, sparks next and then get some fuel in it!

  • 7 months later...
Posted

I had a play with it very briefly today actually! 

Ive got one or more earthing issues that are causing noise that the sensor doesn't like. As soon as I've got the other bike bolted together I'll be full steam into this again. Don't think I'd spent anytime on it since about September! Life and kids keep getting in the way of my tinkering time O.o

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