Muddy Posted January 16 Share Posted January 16 G'day I was looking for some advice or previous experience with fitting a one-piece Airtech solo seat fairing (GSXR64) to a '92 GSXR 750 WN. I imported the solo seat fairing from the USA as we get cheaper registration here in Australia for single seat bikes. However I'm dammed if I can get it to fit in place. Being a one-piece construction it appears to need to be "stretched" and open up over the frame including the ignition unit and radiator header tank. I'm sure it is going to crack and break if I keep pushing it. I just can't figure out how to fit it. I tried to remove the ignition unit and header tank before fitting the solo seat fairing, but still no luck and I'll never get them secured again with the fairing in place. I've contacted Airtech in the USA, but no response as yet. https://www.airtech-streamlining.com/suzuki-fairings-seats-fenders-parts/GSXR7501993-95.htm Any help is greatly appreciated. Quote Link to comment
TLRS Posted January 17 Share Posted January 17 Pretty sure that's what you get with a race fairing..? Trim, relocate, increase part flexibility. Quote Link to comment
Fazz711 Posted January 17 Share Posted January 17 Dose the sun frame have extra braces? Most race bike don't use them if they are fitted as it is extra weight they can do without. Also a lot of the electrics are trimmed back to bare minimum. Quote Link to comment
Muddy Posted January 18 Author Share Posted January 18 Thanks for the suggestions and advice. I spent another couple of hours yesterday trying to get the solo-seat rear cowl to fit. I progressively removed bike parts in an attempt to try and get it to fit. In the end I abandoned it, I just had to remove too much to get it on the bike. I'd then have to try and find a new home for the removed bits. Given that this is to remain a road bike, it really is not practical for me to try and relocate a lot of running gear. I can't imagine being broken down on the side of the road somewhere and trying to remove the fairing, plus bits and pieces to access parts of the bike. Despite another request, no response from the solo seat manufacturer yet. Seems like I'll need to try and find a standard Suzuki rear seat replacement cowl (maybe unobtianium). Quote Link to comment
TJS Posted January 19 Share Posted January 19 I have one on my bike. I angle it up, then slide it on from the rear...like putting on a sock. It should flex a little. Quote Link to comment
Muddy Posted January 20 Author Share Posted January 20 10 hours ago, TJS said: I have one on my bike. I angle it up, then slide it on from the rear...like putting on a sock. It should flex a little. Thanks for the tip. I did try this approach, but without luck. Quote Link to comment
Joseph Posted January 20 Share Posted January 20 Relocate the ECU starter relay and especially fuse box (for easy access) to under the seat and get a smaller expansion tank from a 50cc liquid cooler scooter. Most bikes leave the factory with accessibility, ergonomics and ease of maintenance properly addressed during the R&D phase. Can't complain if stuff gets a bit awkward when trying to fit non standard stuff to it Quote Link to comment
Muddy Posted January 21 Author Share Posted January 21 Good suggestions, thanks. I guess I just have to weigh up the desire to relocate this gear vs fitting the solo seat fairing. 1 Quote Link to comment
Upshotknothole Posted January 23 Share Posted January 23 All of the Airtech stuff is like that. They're designed for race bikes mainly, and they expect you to trim them to fit your setup. I've had one of their solo tails on a slingshot for ages and it's all hacked up and custom mounts to get it to roughly line up right. I'd start by removing everything off the sides of the sub frame, get the tail mounted in place, and then figure out how much you need to trim off the bottom of the tail to get it to fit around the stuff that you can't move. It's a bitch to work on the bike with the tail in place, but it's only 3 bolts for me to remove mine. They also get a little bit more flexible with age and pulling it on and off a lot. Quote Link to comment
Muddy Posted January 23 Author Share Posted January 23 47 minutes ago, Upshotknothole said: All of the Airtech stuff is like that. They're designed for race bikes mainly, and they expect you to trim them to fit your setup. I've had one of their solo tails on a slingshot for ages and it's all hacked up and custom mounts to get it to roughly line up right. I'd start by removing everything off the sides of the sub frame, get the tail mounted in place, and then figure out how much you need to trim off the bottom of the tail to get it to fit around the stuff that you can't move. It's a bitch to work on the bike with the tail in place, but it's only 3 bolts for me to remove mine. They also get a little bit more flexible with age and pulling it on and off a lot. Yes, I'm definitely getting to understand the airtech stuff is not plug and play - I wish I had know that before purchasing. The description on the item doesn't mention that a lot of stuff needs relocating to make it fit. At this stage I'm favouring not fitting the solo-seat rear fairing and rather see what I can do in making a rear cowl to fit in place of the rear seat. Thanks to all for your input. Quote Link to comment
TJS Posted January 24 Share Posted January 24 I think it's because you have the black luggage tie down bracket still on. I will try to post a video of mine tomorrow. 1 Quote Link to comment
TJS Posted January 24 Share Posted January 24 This video shows the subframe. The only mods is to the black plate holder. Quote Link to comment
TJS Posted January 24 Share Posted January 24 This video you can see where I had to cut to fit the exhaust bracket or rear passenger peg. Quote Link to comment
Muddy Posted January 25 Author Share Posted January 25 (edited) Thanks TJS, that helps a lot. I can see you seem to have removed the rear fender (mudguard) as well. Looks like the radiator header tank is still in place. Have you left the ECU and starter relay in place under the right hand side? Here in Aus, the local law enforcement do not like the rear fender being removed so I may have to doctor something up for first registration purposes then remove later. I'll also need to have rear indicators fitted somewhere. I reckon I can live with the rear black sub-frame (plate holder) removed - a new rear shock will not have the remote reservoir/adjuster either. However I'm keen to leave the header tank, ECU and starter relay in place. Thanks heaps. Edited January 25 by Muddy Quote Link to comment
TJS Posted January 25 Share Posted January 25 ECU was moved for protection during crashing, but will fit in the stock position. Get yourself a mask, rubber gloves, dremel, sharpi, and start cutting to fit. It is possible to keep the mudguard, by trimming out the area under the tail light. 1 Quote Link to comment
Upshotknothole Posted January 25 Share Posted January 25 You should be able to keep the stock rear fender when it's all done. Start by removing everything off the tail, especially those black luggage/tie down bars. The tail should slide on from the rear, and then start figuring out what needs to be cut away. Once you start removing some material and keep repeatedly taking it on and off, it will loosen up a bit. I've had this tail for maybe 20 years? Been on a few different bikes, and I've always been able to run the stock under tray, the full fender would fit if I still had it. It uses three bolts and the seat to keep it in place, and the tail light helps keep it straight in the back. Quote Link to comment
Muddy Posted January 25 Author Share Posted January 25 4 hours ago, Upshotknothole said: You should be able to keep the stock rear fender when it's all done. Start by removing everything off the tail, especially those black luggage/tie down bars. The tail should slide on from the rear, and then start figuring out what needs to be cut away. Once you start removing some material and keep repeatedly taking it on and off, it will loosen up a bit. I've had this tail for maybe 20 years? Been on a few different bikes, and I've always been able to run the stock under tray, the full fender would fit if I still had it. It uses three bolts and the seat to keep it in place, and the tail light helps keep it straight in the back. 4 hours ago, TJS said: ECU was moved for protection during crashing, but will fit in the stock position. Get yourself a mask, rubber gloves, dremel, sharpi, and start cutting to fit. It is possible to keep the mudguard, by trimming out the area under the tail light. Thanks Gents, that has encouraged me. I'll give it another go. Most appreciated. 1 Quote Link to comment
Muddy Posted January 29 Author Share Posted January 29 (edited) Thanks so much for this. This does help immensely. It does show that I can keep the header tank, but do need to consider moving the ECU and starter relay. I greatly appreciate the effort you went to in sharing this. Regards Muddy Edited January 29 by Muddy 1 Quote Link to comment
Muddy Posted February 19 Author Share Posted February 19 Nah, been away. I've managed to get a genuine Suzuki rear seat cowl cover, so am still in 2 minds what to do. I am favouring leaving the genuine parts in place and just replacing the rear seat with the cowl. 1 Quote Link to comment
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