17" for slabby. fork swap or wheel swap?

[boilerdude]

So of course now that I just bought a slabby... I might like to see it on 17s. After a little reading it seems like a fork swap is easier than retrofitting the front wheel and having it centered. 

The rear is easy. practically goes right on there. I get that. But do the sprockets line up? anything I should do there?

And I suppose I'm asking whats a good fork swwap that will work with my original speedo? And which bits do I need from which bike to make that work? I know these threads exist elsewhere but I'm just not sure that the subject has been quite as conclusively driven into the ground as it could be.  So here's a new one... 

 

Lets say I'm doing a 95-98 waterpig fork swap. Anybody know what bits do I need to make the slabby speedo work?

Or if someone could remind me again from the top how do I get a front (slingshot) 17 on there with the wheel and rotors exactly where they should be? Anybody remember exact measurements of the spacer needed.  Maybe it just got lost in my horrible memory but I'm not sure I came across that.

 

Anybody care to rehash this one with me

 

 

Edited November 16, 2015 by boilerdude

[kokolis]

If its a slabby 11 you will need change of bearings on the slingshot wheel and 2mm shave on the outside of the speedo driver in order to line up. 

You can use the sligshot discs but you will have to install the slabby calipers first without pads and then put the pads on, de assembly on reverce procedure.

If slabby 750, can be done but you will need calipers from a 11 and the rest as above.

For complete front swap, suzuki has the same stems but maybe you will need a match top headstock bearing.

Also maybe new turn stops have to be made but that depends on the front you will use.

On the rear, a 5.5 goes right in but you will need to use the caliper and hanger as a set with a mix of spacers.

Also you will need to shave 2mm on the inside of the calipers torgue arm ear to get a sufficient clearance.

[boilerdude]

slabby speedo drive work with slingshot wheel? or need slingshot speedo parts?

 

2 weeks ago I bought a 86 1100. And last week I bought a 86 750 as well. Alittle nicer with less issues than the 1100. Still both worthy projects though. With My bandit to ride for now and another for a motor donor eventually. 

[boilerdude]

what about 93-98 waterpig wheel?

[kokolis]

Slabby speedo driver want work on slingshot wheel.

Wc wheels as slingshot

[kokolis]

Avoid front wheel from a wc 1100 model 98  no speedo driver iirc

[Captain Chaos]

Avoid front wheel from a wc 1100 model 98  no speedo driver iirc

you remember wrong. All pre-SRAD GSX-R's have a speedo drive on the front wheel.

[boilerdude]

about to grab a complete 750k for parts for $600. 

[kokolis]

you remember wrong. All pre-SRAD GSX-R's have a speedo drive on the front wheel.

Dont get upset Joris.....I ll try not to do it again

[Nelson]

Yo dude

I've just done the same thing.

That 5.5 just drops right in thing is not quite true.

Kokolis is right, the wheel is from a 750 L, I used the disc, calliper & hanger from my slabbie & the spacers from L.

The sprocket carriers are the same height if you put them next to each other, the sprocket on the L is 6 bolts.

Then it will fit, but, but its real tight, I eased it in with a vernier reaming tool (crow-bar).

It needs 2mm shaving off the out-side of the calliper hanger.

As it is, the chain is out by 1mm ish. After 4000 miles its polished the outside of the rear sprocket a touch.

For the front end, any period usd front end will drop straight in. The steering stems/bearings are all the same.

I used a 1100 WP, I think the're the longest. I'e got the measurements all written down.

The WP yoke needs the lock stops cutting off, but you can bolt a bit of angle bar across the front using already existing bolt holes.

Also the WP top yoke has drillings for the clocks if you're keeping the original mounting set up

 

 

 

 

[boilerdude]

So I need the slingshot/wc speedo drive and that needs 2mm shaved off it.

 

what exactly did you have to pry on to get the rear on?

[boilerdude]

Nevermind that. but hey what about bandit 12 wheels?

[Rene EFE]

Yo dude

I've just done the same thing.

That 5.5 just drops right in thing is not quite true.

Kokolis is right, the wheel is from a 750 L, I used the disc, calliper & hanger from my slabbie & the spacers from L.

The sprocket carriers are the same height if you put them next to each other, the sprocket on the L is 6 bolts.

Then it will fit, but, but its real tight, I eased it in with a vernier reaming tool (crow-bar).

It needs 2mm shaving off the out-side of the calliper hanger.

As it is, the chain is out by 1mm ish. After 4000 miles its polished the outside of the rear sprocket a touch.

For the front end, any period usd front end will drop straight in. The steering stems/bearings are all the same.

I used a 1100 WP, I think the're the longest. I'e got the measurements all written down.

The WP yoke needs the lock stops cutting off, but you can bolt a bit of angle bar across the front using already existing bolt holes.

Also the WP top yoke has drillings for the clocks if you're keeping the original mounting set up

 

 

 

 

If this is true (and I assume it is) on your bike, there is something seriously wonky with the frame. I did this swap more than a few times and I have NEVER had to modify anything. 

Chainrun cannot run un-true, because the front sprocket on all oilcooled engines was in the same position, from the earliest 750 to the last 1157 in the Bandit. 

Frontend; any slingshot drops straight in, lockstops are where they should be and bearings are the same. 

[Nelson]

 

Your right, the position of the front sprocket can not move, being fixed relative to the frame, however the position of the rear sprocket is determined by the wheel spacers.

The chain run is more of a swingarm thing.

If the rear sprocket spacers are the same on the slabby & the L (& they were) but the calliper outer spacer it a bit bigger, as you squeeze it in, the increase in size is spread across the whole swingarm.

This effects the chain run.

When I said it needs about 2mm trimming off, that was a rough estimate. 

I, like you, didn't modify anything either, but its a tight fit with standard  set-up, just tighter, when you put the 5.5 in.

If you say you've done it on many bikes, (& I assume  you have), with out this problem, I don't know what I'm getting wrong.

I've only done it twice & BOTH TIMES it was tighter.

The slingy yokes do have a stop in the right place, but the WP's are not & need cutting off.

Here's some shots of yokes, slingy, the WP in a 87 H head. Slingshot triple.docx

 

 

 

[cregnybaa]

If this is true (and I assume it is) on your bike, there is something seriously wonky with the frame. I did this swap more than a few times and I have NEVER had to modify anything. 

Chainrun cannot run un-true, because the front sprocket on all oilcooled engines was in the same position, from the earliest 750 to the last 1157 in the Bandit. 

Frontend; any slingshot drops straight in, lockstops are where they should be and bearings are the same. 

Not quite right there are three different output shafts for 750s and two of them are different lengths, from L onwards they are longer from the bearing to the spline to move the sprocket out to accommodate the wider tyre . on early 1100s they had the same output shaft bearing as 750s then it was modified to a wider bearing so I would say that that shaft would be longer also as both the slingshot 1100 and bandit run 180 tyres.

[kokolis]

Late models 90/91 have 2mm longer shaft.

Anyway the chain will clear the frame and tyre with the right spacer.

The torque arm not always,  but if you trim 2mm from the caliper ear from the inside and a 2mm washer on the other side you ll get enough clearance.

[Rene EFE]

Not quite right there are three different output shafts for 750s and two of them are different lengths, from L onwards they are longer from the bearing to the spline to move the sprocket out to accommodate the wider tyre . on early 1100s they had the same output shaft bearing as 750s then it was modified to a wider bearing so I would say that that shaft would be longer also as both the slingshot 1100 and bandit run 180 tyres.

Hmm, odd, never knew that. I put a WP backend in my 750K and that went in without any hassle, chainrun spot on. This of course with the relevant spacers to the wheel and swingarm.

[Nelson]

Yo Dude,

Its just occurred to me, any pictures ?