Birthday for GSXR11 - 86

[Dukeman]

Still working on the ignition wires, I struggled to mount the miniature coils due to the way the leads attached at the ends, not enough room to bend the wires, the green coils above are easier but i do not want to spend the $$.

So I went back to the original coils and worked out that all i need to do is replace the ignition wires and use the OEM coils and caps.

Using a heat gun on low setting I warmed up the wires, plastic clips and removed the wires and clips no problem at all, I was careful not to bend them to much but once warm they were easy to remove. The plastic clips have barbs that bite in to the 7mm wires when installed. I twisted the wires and cut of the barb ends to remove them.

Now apart all I need is a length of 7mm wires... any ideas?

http://www.kingsbornewires.com/product-p/wsp1306.htm could be an option...

Assuming these go back together OK I will be pleased keeping the bike standard.

 

Edited July 7, 2020 by Dukeman

[Dukeman]

Found some ignition wire 7mm copper core.

2m / 6ft black plus heat shrink numbers for each lead.

$20 usd approx, can not moan about that assuming this all works, nice supple leads again.

https://www.gsparkplug.com/

If not, this has not cost a lot and I will be buying Dyna.

[Dukeman]

Took my cover to the paint shop today and the colour matched a spray can, this will get a nice clean up and a couple of coats.

Once it stops raining I can spray this, also the oil cap, mine broke trying to undo it, the new one turned up black, so that to needs a paint.

[Dukeman]

I removed the carb rubbers today, stripped the first screw so  purchased some T Handle JIS Screwdriver PH1 PH2 PH3 for Japanese Standard Screws 7pc Set. 

Now that i have the right bit for the screw, I only stripped 5 more LOL. Bloody hell these screws are tight and there is FA room.

Had to use a small chisel to undo them, so 8 x new screws will be ordered today. I found I could get to one side easy enough with the chisel and remove the screw, then wack the mount in the anti clock wise direction to undo the other side. 

 

[Dukeman]

While the bike is in bits i have checked the valve clearances, a couple were a bit tight and one to loose.

Nice to do this job as i have not done this in 8yrs, in reality it did not need doing but good piece of mind and nice to see how the top looks. I used the old head gasket and the grey gasket goo to put the head back on.

 

[Blubber]

ahhh... the joys of OEM carbs rubber screws.  They are made of chinesium.

[Dukeman]

I have a new cam cam spring, I assume I can just pull it out and change the spring?

Any special tips for this job?

 

[Dukeman]

13 hours ago, Blubber said:

ahhh... the joys of OEM carbs rubber screws.  They are made of chinesium.

Yep - managed to get 4 x new bolts, old style.

The replacement bolts do not have the built in washer, part has been superseded.

Im 2 short of the OEM bolts, I'll get the new standard bolts and use them where they can't be seen.

Edited July 9, 2020 by Dukeman

[Dukeman]

Painted the side cover today, i took the cover to an automotive  paint shop who matched the colour and put the paint in a spay can.

Very pleased. I wish I had done the head while it was off the bike, I might take it off again while it is easy to do... really don't want to but it will look way better. Bugger i have answered my own question.

Cover is on loose as I am waiting for the paint to harden overnight, am i correct that the little oil seal washer goes on the top cap screw when putting the cover back on?

My guess is that this thread must go right though in the the crankcase?

[Captain Chaos]

48 minutes ago, Dukeman said:

am i correct that the little oil seal washer goes on the top cap screw when putting the cover back on?

Yes. 

[Dukeman]

Pulled the bolt and spring out, followed by the tensioner housing.

The spring is quite a bit shorter, and the manual does not give the correct length, the manual say no spec is supplied by Suzuki.

Reset the push-rod and checked the ratchet which was fine, push rod needed to be pushed back when installing.

New gasket, the old gasket had fallen apart and the cap screws were just nipped up, to loose.

All back together now.

[Dukeman]

Pull the cam cover again and gave it a coat of pain and blasted and painted the front discs.

Discs are matt black - bad light.

Edited July 24, 2020 by Dukeman

[Dukeman]

Installed the new 7mm spark plug cable.

make sure the clip is 16.5-17mm from the front edge, I used a pneumatic tube cutter to cut the square.

Squeeze the clips to push in the barbs in to the cable and then push them in to the coil. Job done.

Picture is a broken clip of an old coil. - heat gun, screw driver and pull on the cable and they come out easy as.

 

Tested the plug to plug 35k Ohms and 37k Ohms - just what it was meant to be according to info i found.

Cam cover painted and installed.

Edited July 24, 2020 by Dukeman

[Dukeman]

Hell I have not updated since July... I have been busy. Where to start.

Carbs... yep I bit the bullet and did it right

First off strip them and in to an ultrasonic bath with the stuff that causes cancer, well it says it does... Ii I can say it smells BAD, I had to move the bath outside the garage. 2l has lasted years as it is not often used.  - I have spare bottles... they will have to stop selling it eventually. All good stuff gets band!

 

Yamalube carb clearer... my vote 100%

As you can see from the bottle its a few years old, you need to mix 2:1 with water. After use I put in in 2l bottles x 2, the crap settles at the bottom of the bottle. Great for next use.

I add more water each time but this stuff rocks.

[Dezza]

16 minutes ago, Dukeman said:

Hell I have not updated since July... I have been busy. Where to start.

Carbs... yep I bit the bullet and did it right

First off strip them and in to an ultrasonic bath with the stuff that causes cancer, well it says it does... Ii I can say it smells BAD, I had to move the bath outside the garage. 2l has lasted years as it is not often used.  - I have spare bottles... they will have to stop selling it eventually. All good stuff gets band!

 

Yamalube carb clearer... my vote 100%

As you can see from the bottle its a few years old, you need to mix 2:1 with water. After use I put in in 2l bottles x 2, the crap settles at the bottom of the bottle. Great for next use.

I add more water each time but this stuff rocks.

What are the active ingredients listed on the bottle?

[Dukeman]

I have not grown an extra finger, and am still alive for now!

But this stuff does an excellent job.

 

Read under warnings..LOL

carbs fully stripped, new float vales and gaskets, inlet rubber and lovely new clamps all round, and dam after having to feed my children cheap sausages for a few weeks the money is well spent. Nothing like new stuff that is a pleasure to fit, not bending old clamps and old split, hard rubbers. Hell when you where 17 old cracked rubbers was a no go LOL.

I will confess that when fitting I bent one new clamp.. fu#k me was said many times. I still have the airbox... I never want to fit carbs again. What an a-hole job. Unless i am missing a trick!

 

 

[Captain Chaos]

one of the tricks is to fit and connect the throttle cable to the carbs before inserting the lot into the bike

[Dukeman]

And Captain can I add the vacuum hose.

Forgot both and it is a bitch to fit them with an airbox.....

[Dukeman]

Nicely stripped and OH new hoses, got to love new hoses. Also bench balanced the carbs with a small piece of wire that just slips under the 4 slide with the same resistance. The float height was a little low on all carbs, made me think this was done on purpose..... The carbs are back on the bike and it fired up beautifully and after a few minutes settled in to a nice idle. Very please i will add - pleased my coil rebuild worked! That was a cheap fix!

Also done was the front rim, powder coat, spacers plated and new bearings,  cant do the rear until the front in done as the bike will fall over.

Did I mention - all fittings have been plated!!! They look like new and good for another 30years.

Rims - Dulux Arctic white - urethane for chemical resistance, very pleased. I did check that when they do the rear rim it will not be a different shade.. NOPE they said.
Discs also got some treatment, with a coat of paint, tyre to go back on.

 

[Dukeman]

I want to paint the calipers... they are in bots.

I was thinking of blasting them with my sand blaster - its not overly aggressive, I was looking to use grease in all the holes and rags.

Given them a quick blast, wash in parts washer. Mask up and spray....

Do you think this would be OK....

 

 

 

 

Edited August 29, 2020 by Dukeman

[Lachie04]

On 8/30/2020 at 9:11 AM, Dukeman said:

Also bench balanced the carbs with a small piece of wire that just slips under the 4 slide with the same resistance. 

 

Not sure how you can set that with spring loaded slides.

Bench syncing CV carbs is done be setting the throttle butterfly so it just comes up to the bypass  hole on the intact side.

Then when all together vacuum sync them

 

[Dukeman]

Lachie - yep that is what i did but i also use a very fine piece of wire to slide under the butterfly looking for the same resistance on all 4.

I have a vacuum sync tool but how the hell are you meant to access carbs 2 & 3?