BigT

You're looking at the 16V 750 manual You need the GS 750 (8valve) manual

I sent you the link to the factory service manual, see above

What I'm not seeing is a ground from the electrical panel to the frame, or battery The solenoid and the rectifier both need a ground to work The yellow/green wire is the trigger wire from the starter button You have a wiring diagram in the service manual, take a look at it I find a Scotchbrite pad works wonders on the brass connectors. I use DeOxit on the female and gang connectors, do you have that over there? As far as getting it to turn over, short the big terminals on the solenoid with a screwdriver

No class is correct, but maybe replacing the connector is in order

I'm assuming your fuel T are the rubberized style, rather than O rings 1st, wait and see is the leaking stops. It should take 12-24 hours. The rubberish material dries out when not exposed to fuel and should expand. If not, there are some O ring replacements, but I don't have a link for you. Because, all of my rubberized ones don't leak

just checked and your bike has only one fuse

Fusebox is under the left side cover, should have 4 fuses

I tried the link just now and it works fine Clear your browser?

ignitor is probably bad

and what reading are you getting? The gauge has to have a range 0-15, or thereabouts. 0-60 is too high and inaccurate I checked and VDO makes a 0-15 lb gauge. My mate Renobruce used to sell complete kits here in the States

Just fit an oil pressure gauge in that big port on the right side of the motor, below and behind the barrels. Should have a chrome bolt in it

service manual http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/

Since you'll be doing trial and error for a bit, just leave your current one size larger jets in and see what results you get you do have to pull the carbs to adjust the needle

Not bad logic, but my 78 has over 80,000 miles on it with no problems I'd think you'd want to go with the 750 oil pump gears for increased flow rate

Why do you need a new pump? I've never heard of one wearing out. With the 8V oil pressure being so low, it's like the bike with run with minimal flow

There's no single way to tell how to set up your carbs, cause every engine/cylinder/carb/exhaust is a bit different. It will be trial and error once you install the zorst I suggested raising the needles because a) your off idle response is poor and b) carbs have been messed with. Pull a slide apart and see if there are any changes. Stock, the clip is in the middle of 5 slots. I'm recommending second slot from the bottom to bring more fuel to the off idle mixture. Also, US bikes are set up lean for emissions The pointy screw in the picture you posted is the pilot FUEL screw. If it's between the slide and the cylinder head, it's fuel. 3/4 out is a good starting point The less pointy screw on the side is the pilot AIR screw. you are correct in using that one to tweak the idle mixture. Be sure to toss the float bowls and the needle jet (that thing in the picture with the main jet attached to it) in the ultrasonic as well. I'm attaching a chart that shows which carb part does what and when. Plus, some carbs

Blowing air is useless until you either run some carb cleaner thru/dip, boil them in detergent or lemon or ultrasonic then first. Air won't remove any old fuel deposits You might as well move the needles while they're apart

Likely the carb body passages are clogged. It's not just the jets that need to be cleaned rebuild kits are mostly crap. Get an O ring kit from CycleOrings.com That's a pilot fuel screw, BTW, not a pilot jet The 95 mains are standard. You will need to rejet and raise the needle for an exhaust change. How much depends on a number of things, like stock air box, or air pods?

could be your fuel tap or float needle failed and filled the crankcase with fuel common problem, easy fix no rebore needed

Pull the hose running from the top of the motor out of the air box and route for not a glass jar, or similar container Tape over the hole in the airbox Run the bike and see if the oil/fuel is in the jar, or not

PBI sprockets makes offsets https://shop.pbisprockets.com/category.sc?categoryId=71

Still, the most common cause of a high idle is an air leak. check your boots and clamps Do you have the air box on, or pod filters?

My 1085 is a similar vintage and no real noise from the pistons

Green is lower strength than red

I believe this model originally had a battery with a sensor, so the lack of that battery is probably triggering the battery light no reason to buy one of those batteries, AGMs are a much better value As everyone else says, get a new battery and restest the charging rate