BigT

Yeah, you're correct. Just not here in the States. Sometimes forget the worldwide reach of the forum myself

The 1000 and the 750 have the same carb bodies. The mounting plate/idle screw are a bit different, but interchangable Naturally, the jetting/slides/needles are likely diffferent. The 750 jetting seems to change every year Just be sure to get the the correct carb body, because 1-4 are all different Wait, you have VM carbs? I thought you had a post 80 bike. On VM carbs, the vacuum port is on #3

The cylinder that's missing may be farther out of sync than you realize Try the sync and see if that cures the problem

I balance the carbs (which I just did) by using the sync vacuum ports on the head. We're talking carbs here. There is only one vacuum port on the carbs. We had this discussion like, what, 3 weeks ago? You still haven't figured out what the 3 taps on the carbs are for?

No, it means #2 is the vacuum port For syncing carbs, #3 is the master on BS carbs Have you synced the carbs?

Well, you need to learn that #2 is a vacuum port, designed to open the fuel tap The other two ports are vents, to allow fuel to rise and fall in the float bowls So, you just created a massive air leak on the #2 cylinder. And that's the reason I stated I was surprised the bike would run on #2. You are numbering from left hand to right?

Because only one carb (#2) is a vacuum tap. The other two taps are vents for the float bowls, to allow the fuel level to rise and fall. How did I conclude that? Knowledge

Why would you swap the vacuum line from the vacuum port to the float bowl breather? I'm surprised #2 is running

Yep, being a tooth off will do that After taking the clutch cover off, you should be able to look up under the clutch and see if it looks right

I wouldn't be taking advice from this guy, except if you want to fumble thru your issues like him

Doesn't sound like it's running on all 4 cylinders

I can see the O ring in there. Just dig it out with that pick. If you need new boots, use CruzinImage.net You probably need new boots. Air box tubes wouldn't , either

Carb #3

A better test would be to cap the vacuum port on carb #3 and run the bike with the petcock on Prime. If the bike runs better, it's the fuel tap. Fuel taps generally only last about 30 years

Isn't Nanno the same person who mistimed your cams? BTW, if you do your carb cleaning correctly, you only need to take your air box off every decade or two. Your problems likely comes from the boots/tubes being hard. Replace them

None of the ports are blocked off Fuel you have correctly Vacuum to fuel tap, small port The other 2 ports are open, as above

You didn't clean the small passages in the carbs. So, no fuel mix is flowing. Follow this http://gsarchive.bwringer.com/bikecliff/images/vm_carb_rebuild.pdf Go here http://gsarchive.bwringer.com/ and download a factory service manual and there's other helpful tutorials

What year 750? Did you fully strip the carbs, soak or ultrasonic, especially the bodies, then reassemble with new O rings? If 80 or newer, is the air box on? If you didn't touch the transmission, did you align the shift shaft teeth to the transmission forks?

For the cost of OEM points and condensor, it's much more cost effective to switch to the Dyna S I did so in 1983, it's still flawless

Very nice. What rear wheel did you use?

To get back on subject, G bikes are not the best candidates for a fork swap. Are you going to run the stock front wheel? Lots of adapting for that to happen Are you going to run the 17" modern wheel? You geometry will be messed up. You'd have to find a 17" rear (which I'm not sure exists) and then your bike would be too low Your best bet is to add cartridge emulators, straight rate springs and a fork brace to your existing front end. Or, upgrade to the 41mm GK fork and add the above

Don't forget to check for a loose clutch hub nut

They drape over the airbox to the still air behind it Now's the time to replace the fuel and vacuum lines

You guys S models didn't have an 18" rear wheel, as opposed to the E 17" wheel?

Did you follow the instructions in the link I sent you? Doesn't sound like you did, because you would be getting fuel to the engine What do you expect the cheap, inferior parts in a carb rebuild kit to accomplish for you?