BigT

No, they're not. On my 78 1000, the electrical panel is rubber mounted and not grounded to the frame. Same with the battery box. Same thing with other models. Seen it many times (this being one of them) "The lights are on, but the bike won't crank" Ground the solenoid, and voila!

looks good

Whatever the solenoid is mounted to need to be grounded. Doing so may fix the starter issue.

Well, time to break out the multimeter and find where you have 12+ Volts. The wiring runs battery-main fuse-ignition switch-other fuses-circuits Since one dashlight comes on, you're part way there. Be sure to clean every connection, as resistance adds up in a hurry With a bit of luck, those extra black wires may be additional grounds Look for the yellow/stripe wire on the solenoid and trace that back to the right handle bar starter switch you will need to clean the switch, put it in a plastic sandwich bag to contain the springs and poke your screwdriver thru the bag to disassemble That one looks as if it's been sitting for a while, plan on stripping the carbs and cleaning them

Bassani? Simply the best pipe of the period. Fantastic sound

The only magnetic piece in the motor should be the magnet on the oil drain plug

Valves, carbs,electrcial are the first thing Otherwise, you're just pissing in the wind

There's not a noticable change in performance It's mostly to give one a wider and less expensive choice in chains. Priced a 630 lately? Front sprocket teeth go larger, as above No offset needed for stock wheels

Nice bike You already have the best swingarm on the bike, unless you want to spend big bucks on one. I upgraded both of my GS 1000s with that arm Front forks- Sonic springs and cartridge emulators from Race Tech Front brakes - Salty_Monk twinpot upgrade As mentioned, pretty hard to lighten it and have it stockish

It's not fixed, it's just got a cap over it. The cap come right off, and you need to pull the mixture screw to properly clean the carbs. Check the rebuild link I posted

Never heard of the 650 E chain drive model?

Where to start No, don't use RTV on anything on your bike Put down the wrenches, stay off Utube and do some reading. Start here: https://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?171846-Top-10-Newbie-Mistakes&highlight=top newbie mistakes Get a manual here http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/ Learn to clean your carbs here. Spraying does next to nothng http://zeus.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/gs/Mikuni_BS-CV_Carburetor_Rebuild_Tutorial.pdf You will need to remove all 4 carb boots to replace the O rings. Break out the penetrating oil and go to it. You somehow have the impression that working on a 40 year old motorcycle should be a series of quick fixes. It's not. Expect to spend weeks or months and a bunch of cash to make it right. Was your bike cheap? Ask yourself why that was so More reading https://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?193159-The-GS-Deadly-Sins https://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?194050-Help!-Your-Bike-Won-t-Run-Well Note: You have already shown that you are "that guy"

Forget kits Follow this guide http://zeus.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/gs/Mikuni_BS-CV_Carburetor_Rebuild_Tutorial.pdf and you're good to go O rings and bowl gaskets should be the only parts you need

If you can't spend $60 on your bike, sell it and move on to a safer hobby

Yeah, O Reillys is where I go for advice on my motorcycle that was made before he was born

Possibly. But, heat generally comes from resistance, which comes from corrosion Did you check the contacts in your ignition? They're likely arc damaged

I'd check the fuse box back,also

Time to break out the multimeter The starter just needs power to the right hand control

Remove your gas thank. There's several large plugs there you may have pulled apart

There's a cupped washer that sits on top of the springs, and the preload is a 4" (?) tube that sits on that. Hard to miss, but buying something used can have its drawbacks. Check the fiche

http://zeus.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/gs/Mikuni_BS-CV_Carburetor_Rebuild_Tutorial.pdf

did you forget the preload spacers?

Plug wires are on the wrong plugs. 1&4 and 2&3, as above

Agreed Rattle gun the nut off Use the proper internal puller only, no jaw pullers on the rotor While you have the rotor off, replace the 3 bolts that hold the starter clutch. Use red Locktite. It will save you going back later

That resolder job is horrible I'd find a used switch and swap out the electrical disc and wires That would give you a chance to clean all of the internal contacts as well