Toecutter

I have used keyster sets many times with fine results. Change all o-rings and the float needle and seat and all should be good. NRP carbs are very good for harder to get bits. Don't bother to phone through any orders though, much quicker to order from their website. With keyster carb kits be sure to double check your pilots and main/emulsion tube jet sizes as not always a direct replacement for your particular carb set.

Had a butchers and the bolt had backed out again. All back together and loctite on bolt. Crank taper fine with no damage. Ignition advancer removed and back to standard. Starter clutch internals All ok. All running good so far. No nasty noises from starter clutch which is nice.

Thanks. I'll pop the casing and have a look over the weekend. Did plan on swapping the ignition advancer back to standard so will do that at the same time off my spare engine. They dont tend to make much difference anyway. Happened to be fitted to the engine when I acquired it so just left it on. Cheers.

Is there a common problem with slabbie starter clutches? Rebuilt a knackered starter clutch with new rollers and springs as worn and slipping. During cranking i'm getting a nice clack on initial start up-first start of the day for example. Bike then starts fine without any issue for the rest of the day. When this first happened, I had a nosey inside and the retaining bolt had backed off. This has been lapped on as usual and a dab of loctite added to the threads. Taper on crank all good. Recently stripped another 1100 engine and the starter clutch had shot the spring and plunger straight through the side of the clutch leaving a large hole. The two others looked like they were about to make the same bid for freedom. Yesterday when I went to start the bike, I just had spinning from the starter clutch and no engagement. It did catch eventually and start. I need to take a look to see if the nuts backed off again. The bike is running with a new motobatt and spins over fine. Also has a 5 degree ignition advance. I have a feeling the crank is back spinning and causing the loud clack, witch eventually backs the bolt off. Is this common? I know the same starter clutch assy is used for many suzuki models from 600 bandits up to the 1200s and the gsxrs etc. Thanks. TC.

if its any help, pearl black, marble pure red, candy florida blue and stardust silver metallic. not sure of codes though.

Grease gun all the way. Works every time

Your probably looking around the 130-135# mikuni main jet size. Get the main jet correct and then fine tune backwards to iron out any niggles and ensure a smooth cruise etc. Will take a bit of faffing to get it close. Finish up with a decent dyno operator to get her bang on. Do check though, before you start with the carbs that you have good strong spark. Ignition timing and everything functioning correctly as this will effect your tuning. I have found good results with just main jet and needle tweakage without using kits in the past just takes a bit of time.

Ok. no probs. I'll pm you a message with my address.

Where abouts are you? I would be happy to TIG it for you and leak test afterwards if you don't mind posting it out. Is the rest of the bottom solid?

Awesome! Bargain and a runner too. Have fun with it.

Ill have a rummage through me carb bits tomorrow. May just have the bits you require. All dynojet kits consist of is a selection of main jets. 4 sizes for different applications. Airbox on pods etc the slide drill along with main air jets and the dynojet needles which are tapered. I think I pretty much have the kit spare in a box somewhere. If its all there you can have it as I now have GSXR carbs on mine. Needles are the main bit required from the dynojet kit to be honest. The rest is trial and error. They can be setup just on the stock needles and bigger mains however. Ill get back to you tomorrow or later this eve if any use? Cheers, T

Dynojet kits work ok in the standard carbs. Think from memory I had the DJ134 mains fitted with the needles lifted one slot from the middle with a little 'half a notch' shim underneath. Although different setups and bit of tweaking involved for different engines but might get you on the right path. Slides drilled also using drill bit supplied in kit. Ensure base settings are good to start with including a good fat spark on all cylinders, carbs correctly balanced etc etc. When fettling, change one thing at a time so as not to get lost and you should get it going well. Good quality filters make life easier. Cheers. T

Agree with no class. They should pop on ok with a bit of jiggling. Got a set on my 1100et ok.

RF900 quite similar to Bandit wheel. Although, I have an rf900 arm with bandit 12 wheel in my ET.

Yo! you can get away with a 180 in the standard swinger but its tight. If you go 520 on your chain and sprockets, use a gs550 sprocket carrier or machine your existing one. Along with an offset front sprocket-or weld one up or have it sorted for you its doable. Just to bare in mind the choice of tyre though. Not all 180's measure true to 180 across tyre manufacturers. I came unstuck when switching manufacturers and had tyre rubbage on chain...Did I mention it can be tight...Alternatively stick with the 160 on 5.5 rim? TC

Bandit stem into et frame-you can use the stem/yokes from the bandit but requires shortening by 25mm as longer than the et setup. you've got 5mm to play with. Could be a straight swap if you can take up the 5mm with a spacer? Job done. Bearings are the same from memory...Was seven years or so ago when I popped a set of B12 forks in mine so casting my mind back... ET stems are welded into the yokes so requires chopping about. Or at least my 750 ones were. B12's just press out.

Agree with what minx said. Before you start messing about with carb settings, ensure your eleccy system is delivering the goods though. Nice fat blue sparks on all cylinders, adjust one thing at a time with the carbs and go from there. Make a note of the changes you are making between runs and what the plugs look like after each run etc. The BST36 carbs are quite easy to set up to get you in the ball park before final tuning via dyno run. Ensure carbs/filters are sealed correctly before anything else as air leaks will play havoc with any adjustments. I have them on my 1100et and they transform the throttle response immensely over standard carbs. The K&n dual pods seem to work best with these carbs on the GSX range. Can't remember jet sizing off the top of my head as completed swap few years ago. I didn't need to change pilot jet size, just had to increase main jets and mess around with needle height a little. I may have the settings written down somewhere still. Will have a rummage. You can use standard throttle cable also. Just need to click it on the second position on the throttle twist grip.

They look good for the monies but there's a bit of science involved in their construction for optimum performance surely. Do these perform as well as the well known manufacturers? Possibly not. But they do look good.

An option for later calipers could be nissin four pots from bandit etc but you would need to make or have some adaptor plates made up. Early gsxr calipers might also be worth a look. Anything can be made to fit anything, depends what you require in terms of keeping it looking as close to standard as possible. Same again with the rear brake. Torque arm may require modifying or use the lock-in swingarm type and modify the swinger to accommodate. There's lots of possibilities out there. Someone will be along I'm sure who has carried out the same conversion.

Do you wish to swap the whole front end including yokes or just the fork tubes? Later models being of the same range? May I ask the reason for switching out the forks for later models? Could you not just replace like for like?

Hello. Nice looking ET you have there. Enjoy, they're great

Cheers Fazz

Cheers Wraith. few tweaks scince this was taken though. Better carbs, and finally replaced the extra long front brake lines that were way too long and looked shite...Currently gathering bits for a new build engine/project. Is there still a for sale/wanted section on the site? Cheers, T.

The whole front end is b12. The stem length needed shortening by 2.5cm if I remember correctly as was longer than the GSX stem. The stem pops out of the yokes nicely with a press. They work quite well, haven't had any quarms with them. They were very stiff when first fitted them but removal of some of the fork oil helped. Might want to mess with spring rates but I didn't bother. They are shorter than the stock ET ones though so make the bike sit a little lower even with the top of fork legs flush with the top yoke but if you wanted you could add extensions.

Yes, Yoshi it is. Got an RF900 swinger in it with bandit wheel too.