Toecutter

Pipe layout very similar to truls build in the forced induction section as so expertly demonstrated.

I've made a start, main holdup is the flanges at the mo. Using 1.5 mm wall 304 stainless tube 38mm dia due to space restrictions at the turbo flange. Pre bent 90 tubes to get everything in the right place where needed. I will put up pics when some substantial progress has been made...

Niceone, cheers. Could be helpful but the pipes I'm using for my particular header design are 38mm dia, with gsx 11 stud spacing. 38mm dia due to space restrictions at the turbo flange. Cheers.

Best way is to pop the whole 17 digit number into a vehicle vin decoder via the interwebs. Just six digits to go by is lacking somewhat. Have you the registration number? If so, just pong it into a mot history check search on the dvla website and it should bring up the model no and mot history from 2005 onwards.

I've contacted delkevik to see if they can supply gsx 1100 flanges as well, but I have a feeling they will be 38mm pipe diameter like their systems but obviously can be enlarged. Alternatively, I'll just get some laser cut if not...

Exactly what I was looking at haha.

Does anyone happen to know what the dimensions are for gsx1400 exhaust header flanges? After some for my 1100 et build if someone has some and would be kind enough to measure? Thanks.

Yeah, with 6mm spacer for 10mm offset sprocket there's plently left for the gearchange shaft. Any wider on the offset would need the shaft extending.

Also fits the gs1000 but needs a small section removing to allow upper, rear engine mount to clear.

Spacer plate. 6mm thick for 10mm offset sprocket. Thicker plate for wider offset sprocket needed. Longer push rod also required to allow for extra room in this case 6mm.

Machined Spacer plates made to solve this issue at Fastec racing.

Silly question, but has the clutch cable got sufficient freeplay? If so, have you tried running it with the clutch lever pulled in until warm to check whether the plates are sticking?

The shim goes in, then the thrust washer with the oil groove facing into the engine/away from the sleeve hub.

It's best to media blast the anodising off using something sensible like glass bead or fine silica carbide that's not too aggressive first. Then vapour blast. This achieves a nice, uniform finish when finally vapour blasted. You'd be there forever trying to vapour blast off hard anodising...

Yeah, I use acf50 to help protect. I've done engine crankcases which seem to fair pretty well. My swingarm and fork legs I did on my slabby have gone a bit scabby but it does get used in all weathers...

Vapour blast and clear Matt cerakote may be an option. Bare vapour blasting looks nice and uniform for a while but goes patchy and blotted after a short while.

Should be fine as you'll be changing back to stock needles for turbo use. Any jet changes are easy to swap back of course. So long as the slide lift holes do not require enlarging everything can be swapped out as required. Have you the standard Airbox fitted? If so, i'd just stuck with stock set-up until you are ready to turbo. Saves dyno time/money that could be better spent on go faster bits.

What actual benefit does moving the shock mounts in this way actually achieve though? When you look at their position in relation to stock, they are almost at 45 degrees to the swingarm. This surely doesn't allow the shocks to perform optimally.

Rf900 wheel will go in standard ally swingarm. May need to machine a little off the sprocket carrier and off set the front sprocket a little. No need to notch the frame out for clearance if using a 170 tyre. 180 gets a bit tight. 530 chain and sprockets. I say go for the restomod option. I wouldn't worry too much about having all of the necessary tools as said, many can offer help where required if need be and anything can be achieved with a little thought. Whereabouts are you?

+1 on the Simoniz tough paint.

Yes you are quite correct with the slabbie mudguard, my bad, meant to say slingshot...well spotted.

Rf900 and gsx r slabside any good? Think the rf one is quite similar to squashed slug though...

Yes also to philpots but six week turnaround at the moment...

I personally prefer to have forks re chromed. Costs around 270 ish now for a set. Have used aftermarket stanchions a few times and not too impressed by the finish. The last set I bought for my slabby I found the surface to mark very easily. They have been on there around a year now and you can visibly see where dust and road debris have scored the stanchions. They haven't begun to rust though however or show any signs of pitting. Only downside to the re chrome option is about a six week turnaround.

Ah, yes that makes sense now. Is the oil then diverted to the crankcase after pump in ignition cover?