colinworth79

I'm going as well . Bandit and gsxr 11 will be on display .

Those two wires go to the cdi these retard the ignition slightly in 1st and 2nd gears . Not needed . Blue wire is for the neutral warning light .

I would sat its a yoshi system. My duplex system has 1 + 2 and 3+4 come to the collector the same .

The chain guide bolts in from the top. Change was due to fitting a hyvo chain . There is no idler gear between the cams on a bandit motor. Just grind couple small bits out of the brether box or use couple of counter sunk screws.

Not sure of its any help but I've fitted bandit 12 wheels into a slingshot . Used the existing wheel spacer on the chain side , bandit 12 spacer on the disc side . I used the bandit 12 caliper carrier but had to thin it down slightly as a gsxr 1100 swingarm is slightly narrower at the wheel end .

I'm leaning towards they are gen carrillo after all as thr rod bolts are stamped CARR and number etched on the side . I'm fairly sure the ones I purchased new had a A stamped on them . Might end up taking the clutch cover of my bandit motor to look at the gen rods .

Rods bolts have CARR SPS 77

I've got some H bean rods I'm looking to sell but I can't see any identifications . They look very much like the carrillo rods I have fitted in my bandit motor but haven't anything on the side .

Stock calipers aren't the best out there. Upgrade to r1 or the later gsxr mono blocks .

K5 is 207mm I have one sat here . Think there all the same up to k8 just the offset changes .

As gixer1460 said above oil contaminated cases are tricky to weld . Personlly i would clean all the paint off around the area then die grind into the crack . I would remove the sump and gear change shaft and seal . Give it a good clean with some solvents . Possibly giving it warm up with a blow torch couple of time to get the oil to warm up and come out of the crack. Put the gear change shaft back in when you get it welded . Swapping the cases is not going to be econical by the time you get gaskets , bearings ect be better off getting another engine and stripping that one and selling the bits off .

The natural light uses the connector at the bottom of the engine as the negative return for the light . I would say you have an earth ( negative ) fault possible connector onto the crankcase .