Oilyspanner

I don't know if you've done the work yet, but you'll honestly get very little for the effort. The extra 60cc is offset by low compression, this is normally used on turbo applications. I would save for a while and fit 11:1 or 12:1 pistons in the 81mm bores, this would give loads more torque.....I think you'll be disappointed with a low compression motor, although it'll run on very low octane fuel !

I've got the weight savings written down somewhere but couldn't find it. The Slingshot wheels are heavy, from memory I think the straight spoke, bandit 1200/gsxr1100 ws on, are front 500 gm lighter and the rear pretty much a kilo lighter.

A 3rd gear whine ! ....understatement

Get a v coil or helicoil kit which is pretty cheap. They come with a suitable drill, 8.3mm from memory, a tap for the 7mm vcoil/helicoil, the tool to screw the coil in and the steel threads themselves - once done you can forget about them, way stronger than standard. Timeserts are great too. Cam cover threads strip even if you're careful.

If it struggles to run, going up 4 sizes on the mains and one up on the pilots should be close enough to run. Lifting the needle one notch should help too.

Have used plenty of 6 piston tokico calipers and the 4 pot nissins. The 6 pots were pretty good when new, but quickly get worse with time, various pistons don't move freely and muck up power and feel. The nissins are more reliable, using ebc or SBS pads make them a very good caliper. The next step up is radial calipers, not 6 pots, but you need different forks for those. Over hauling the calipers is worth the effort, clean the pistons and replace the seals - make sure your master cylinder is working well too.

I was interested in that one ! ......it was cheap for what it is, well worth it

The gsxr1100 L,M,N forks are 735mm long from memory(cap to axle centre), the gsxr600/750k6 to L0 forks are only 3mm shorter and make a good swap, but you need the front end and a top steering bearing swap. You'll lose the speedo drive, alright if you go digital speedo. There's a ton of weight to be saved with the wheels, forks, yokes and clip ons......you'll need some after market clip ons too. It's not so bad, takes a bit of effort, but for weight saving, better braking, good suspension action it's excellent. My gsxr1100n is a bit modified and weighs the same as the early -onda Fireplace, it feels very different to how it was, the money does add up - the world's your oyster !

Marvellous results, the bike even looks cool as

Hi Clive - pretty sure 1127 Slingshot, gsx1100f and B1200 all have the same secondary ratios. The 1157 and R1127 are the same, I've got a new 4th driven gear for a B1200 in my 1100N. Webike have the 2006 B1200 having slightly different 3rd, 4th and 5th secondary ratios, like USK said, but the cogs have the same number of teeth...so it's just bad maths.

High compression is the major producer of heat, even with an otherwise std engine - bandit cams will produce more heat at lower revs, because they've less over lap/cylinder pressure is higher at lower revs. Were the cams dialled in properly ? At 60 the air should offset any slight carburation weakness induced heat. A big bore outfit will need more cooling than a std engine.

Yep, handling heat is always the problem with our engines, tuning, going slow, lugging more weight just make it worse. Like the extra cooler idea combined with a fan, this would help a lot.

Our engines can run pretty hot when tuned, my solo bike needs to move above 30 mph when it's hot outside (28/82 degrees), else the oil temperature climbs. Pulling a sidecar would produce more heat, high compression pistons produce a lot more heat, so that's why you holed a piston .....forged pistons are tough, so your engine must've been very hot ! Jetting is only one part of the problem/solution. Fitting a fan for slow speed, town environments in the summer would be helpful , dropping the compression would help and make sure you don't have an ignition advancer. Fitting gsxr cams would help reduce cylinder pressure at lower revs, it would reduce torque low down, but would lower engine temperature....but sat in traffic it would still get very hot. Fit an oil temperature gauge, then you'll know when the engine is struggling with heat.

Hard to tell with those photos. If you have minor pitting on the lobes that you can feel, you can polish those areas and they'll be fine. My 1100N cams had minor pitting, so I did this with mine - check the matching follower surface too. I used fine wet and dry, then buffed them with a rotary tool, they felt smooth afterwards and in 10,000 miles since I haven't noticed any worsening.

Could check all the engine bolts, one might be loose - sometimes loosening the bolts (with a Jack to hold the weight) and then systematically go around gradually tightening them up helps. Something that I did to help my right hand was to alter the angle of the bars. I've got clip ons above the top yoke and had angled them back - less reach, more upright for more comfort when going slower I thought....what happened was that my wrists were held at an awkward angle. I pushed the bars away from me and just like that my right hand/wrist wasn't a problem. Obviously you've got std bars, but after market ones can be fitted without changing anything else.