bluedog59

Obviously I went through a number of designs in my head first but this is the one I settled on before cutting any tube. I had (hope I have) sorted in my head first, front end, carbs inc cable routing, battery position, coils and electrics layout etc. It should go off next week to have the front of the big alloy tank altered to match the front frame tube so it will sit in position so I can start the rear sub frame and seat unit. I have a novel design that I'll post when I start.

Are you trying to say it looks like I made the design up as I went along ? If you are, I don't mind, I prefer honest opinion. The design is actually quite close to my original idea. There have been a few tweaks along the way, it is my first attempt, and there are bits dictated by my abilities ( or lack of). There is a large pile of bits of tube etc that didn't come out how I wanted, probably enough to build a crap version.

I can see your thinking there but no, it was always having forks. got enough on my plate just making the frame.

It's is a bit but I didn't want to under do it for my first attempt, besides, I have an 1100 motor under the bench. The way I have designed the frame, providing it will fit between the side rails, just about any upright cylinder four will go in.

Click on the image.

Having a go a making my own frame etc.

You can pull the tensioner out and inspect it. Measure the free length of the spring against spec.

IMO, I would put the sensor in head or between it and the cooler. This will give your maximum oil temp, after the cooler will tell you how good your cooler id but in the head will tell you how hot the top end is running.

I'd look at where you're wasting what you have before looking in the engine for more. Less rolling resistance. Run the tyres with more PSI to reduce drag. Less aerodynamic resistance. Fit a fairing off a 125 race bike and lower the bike. Cut down any brake/chain/bearing drag, Practice his starts and gear changes. . Look at the gearing. Is 1st really low ? Can you gear it lower on the sprockets so it's flat in top at the the end and he launches in 2nd, thus getting it into the closer ratio upper gears sooner. No point in looking for more power to make up for pushing a barn door.

That looks a very well put together bike, not necessarily to my taste in places, but very nice none the less. It's funny how some people slag off Bandits but then want the bit's I've taken OFF mine to put on their bike as an "upgrade".

Just measured my spare Bandit 12 Mk1 forks. They're are 778mm, spindle centre to stanchion top, fully extended.

That looks stunning !!!!