Devilman

Very much agree with this. Testing continuity using a load can be a very effective way of finding a problem. Rather than using a multimeter, use a (fused) supply from the battery, a bulb and route the wire you're testing to earth. Can use a variety of bulbs to simulate different loads. 60w Headlamp bulb is going to be around 4.5-5A depending on battery voltage. 21w Brake Light bulb is good to simulate a 1.8(ish) amp draw, etc..

I was replying to a post regarding Bandit6 carbs, on a thread about Bandit 6 carbs. The issue seems to be much more prevalent on bandit 6's for some reason. Seen plenty of GSXR11's with Dual Pod K&N and they were just fine. But a GSXR1100 is not a Bandit600.

It depends what the linkage ratio is, which will be different from bike to bike. What bike are you looking to raise the back end on?

The pod filters in-and-of themselves are not really the problem. The real problem is that 99% of the time when someone fits pods, they stick them straight onto the carb mouth removing / disposing of the rubber "velocity stacks" that are built into the stock airbox-to-carb rubbers. (K&N Dual Pods are very notable for this, there simply is not enough room to use the stock airbox rubbers) As shown by @yantoshabove, if you include the rubbers from the airbox (and with the right foam filters) it greatly helps with getting them to run nice

From memory Bandit 6's are very prone to rough running without the airbox, to the point where I've heard people say that jet kit(s) didn't really help at all, the only thing that fixed it was Dyno time.

Not certain on that one, but you could try using one of the online parts catalogues (such as cmsnl or fowlers) to cross-check the part rubber numbers to see if they're the same

Forgive me if this has already been suggested, I've not had the chance to read all the recommendations made by others.... I had a similar issue with a 750J a while back, no matter how hard I tried to get the carbs balanced, I would end up with the idle "hanging up" like you describe. Turns out it was vacuum leaks due to cracked / perished carb rubbers (and the O-Rings behind them). Could be worth a try?

As far as I am aware all the stems should be the same across the GSXR's. Is it possible you either haven't pressed the stem in far enough, or do you have any "Custom Yokes" that may be thicker? Bit of a cheeky blag here but I'll give it a punt anyway.... I am in need of a Bandit stem and I have the front-end from a 750J sat here in my garage ... Perhaps you would be interested in a trade? (Your Bandit Stem for my 750J Stem)

While fundamentally I agree, in this particular case what you suggest is unlikely / unable to be used. Calipers cannot measure from "inside" to "ouside" on the same part in the manner you suggest. They measure outside-outside OR inside-inside, so either way you gotta do some math

Sure is... However I was simply providing people with the means to figure it out accurately and reliably themselves should they want to

If you're trying to eye-ball it center-to-center with a pair of calipers, I can see why you're having problems Just screw a couple of studs into the bolt holes, measure across the outside of both studs, then subtract the diameter of 1 stud. You now have your center-to-center spacing perfectly

Makes absolutely zero difference to a stock motor. What you more than likely felt was a combination of placebo and the cooler weather causing a denser air-charge.

If I remember correctly 1246cc (82mm) is the largest you can go on stock B12 liners, they just get too thin after that. 1340cc (85mm) would be impossible on stock liners.

If they're for a slabby which has 58mm stroke, then those pistons will be 78mm dia. From what I remember from another thread, the cover should be inter-changeable to suit which chain you're running.

Do you have any visible signs of wear on either the inner or outer basket? Sometimes even a little bit of a "lip" at the edge of each plate can make them hang up and drag.