Devilman

Very much agree with this. Testing continuity using a load can be a very effective way of finding a problem. Rather than using a multimeter, use a (fused) supply from the battery, a bulb and route the wire you're testing to earth. Can use a variety of bulbs to simulate different loads. 60w Headlamp bulb is going to be around 4.5-5A depending on battery voltage. 21w Brake Light bulb is good to simulate a 1.8(ish) amp draw, etc..

I was replying to a post regarding Bandit6 carbs, on a thread about Bandit 6 carbs. The issue seems to be much more prevalent on bandit 6's for some reason. Seen plenty of GSXR11's with Dual Pod K&N and they were just fine. But a GSXR1100 is not a Bandit600.

It depends what the linkage ratio is, which will be different from bike to bike. What bike are you looking to raise the back end on?

The pod filters in-and-of themselves are not really the problem. The real problem is that 99% of the time when someone fits pods, they stick them straight onto the carb mouth removing / disposing of the rubber "velocity stacks" that are built into the stock airbox-to-carb rubbers. (K&N Dual Pods are very notable for this, there simply is not enough room to use the stock airbox rubbers) As shown by @yantoshabove, if you include the rubbers from the airbox (and with the right foam filters) it greatly helps with getting them to run nice

From memory Bandit 6's are very prone to rough running without the airbox, to the point where I've heard people say that jet kit(s) didn't really help at all, the only thing that fixed it was Dyno time.

Not certain on that one, but you could try using one of the online parts catalogues (such as cmsnl or fowlers) to cross-check the part rubber numbers to see if they're the same

Forgive me if this has already been suggested, I've not had the chance to read all the recommendations made by others.... I had a similar issue with a 750J a while back, no matter how hard I tried to get the carbs balanced, I would end up with the idle "hanging up" like you describe. Turns out it was vacuum leaks due to cracked / perished carb rubbers (and the O-Rings behind them). Could be worth a try?

As far as I am aware all the stems should be the same across the GSXR's. Is it possible you either haven't pressed the stem in far enough, or do you have any "Custom Yokes" that may be thicker? Bit of a cheeky blag here but I'll give it a punt anyway.... I am in need of a Bandit stem and I have the front-end from a 750J sat here in my garage ... Perhaps you would be interested in a trade? (Your Bandit Stem for my 750J Stem)

While fundamentally I agree, in this particular case what you suggest is unlikely / unable to be used. Calipers cannot measure from "inside" to "ouside" on the same part in the manner you suggest. They measure outside-outside OR inside-inside, so either way you gotta do some math

Sure is... However I was simply providing people with the means to figure it out accurately and reliably themselves should they want to

If you're trying to eye-ball it center-to-center with a pair of calipers, I can see why you're having problems Just screw a couple of studs into the bolt holes, measure across the outside of both studs, then subtract the diameter of 1 stud. You now have your center-to-center spacing perfectly

Makes absolutely zero difference to a stock motor. What you more than likely felt was a combination of placebo and the cooler weather causing a denser air-charge.

If I remember correctly 1246cc (82mm) is the largest you can go on stock B12 liners, they just get too thin after that. 1340cc (85mm) would be impossible on stock liners.

If they're for a slabby which has 58mm stroke, then those pistons will be 78mm dia. From what I remember from another thread, the cover should be inter-changeable to suit which chain you're running.

Do you have any visible signs of wear on either the inner or outer basket? Sometimes even a little bit of a "lip" at the edge of each plate can make them hang up and drag.

Only if you feed the Mogwai after midnight

Took this pic off Eblag for reference... It definitely appears you do not have the gear on far enough, on the following pic you can see the only place the splines from the gear are visible is in the lower "lands" on opposite sides of the shaft.

Yup, this is the conclusion I came too also. The 4th and 5th picture clearly show that classic "oil and dirt" caked to the chain tunnel, right up to the cam cover.

Nice, that's an awesome calculator, should prove very useful to some folks *Edit* Just to say... I wasn't really sure how to make the mods aware of my following suggestion without "spamming" the thread or creating another one just to ask it, so I have "reported" (not in negative terms) your post and asked the mods to create a "Useful Resources / Links" thread that could contain such very useful resources such as this and keep it pinned to the top of the board. I Pray it does not cause any issues or trouble for you or the mods, It just seemed like a prudent way to bring their attention to something very useful

From memory Busa rods are 2.5mm longer than GSXR rods, so even with the 1mm shorter stroke of the 1052 crank, you'll need some kind of spacer to prevent piston-to-head contact You should end up with around 1195/1196cc but as to compression ratio, that will depend greatly on how much the combustion chamber volume has been reduced by the skimming, and some math with the swept volume of the cylinder, etc.. etc.. There may be calculators out there now that you can punch the numbers into (bore, stroke, chamber capacity, squish band, valve-pocket capacity on the piston crown etc..) but I don't know of any personally.

That's no mongrel, that's a monster! Really nice combination of parts, should be a fantastic engine Combine it with a 1052 clutch and it's pretty much my ideal engine What clutch are you planning to go with? "Top-hat" style from the earlier 1052, or diaphragm clutch from the 1127? Regarding the chain, I'll echo what @FJDmentioned above, have you already got the tensioner installed in the back of the barrels? If so you'll quite possibly be fighting against it

1052, 1127 and 1157 barrels are all interchangeable, Dot head will fit all of them too, obviously need to use the correct chain / sprockets to suit the crank. However, 1052 has 1mm shorter stroke, so barrels are shorter which conversely means if you were to put 1127 barrels on a 1052 crank, you'll lose compression and open up the squish band, robbing you of performance. I guess you could get the barrels "decked" to shave 1mm off them, but they might be difficult to sell on if you ever wanted to, as a set of 1127 barrels that are only 58mm stroke might not find many buyers. *Edit* Not sure how thick a standard base gasket is and whether or not if you had really clean and flat mating surfaces you may be able to do away with it in favor of "form in place gasket" (RTV basically) to regain a bit?

Grabbed a few pics to avoid any possible confusion with the different measurements (Everything in millimeters, obviously ) Hope that gives you all the dimensions you need

When you say Dust Seal, do you mean the shielded metal spacer on the right-hand side of the wheel? (number 5 in the pic) This bit? :- If so, I can go out and measure the one off my 750M forks, they're currently stripped apart on the bench

High RPM with Wide Open Throttle is gonna be all about the Main Jets. What you could do, is try a "plug chop" to check the colour, might give a hint of she's going lean at high RPM / load. Basically ride the bike into the situation where you're experiencing problems and then shut it off via the Kill-switch while you're still in "that problem range" Then take a plug or two out and check the colour, if it's lean they will be white / ashy