rerb
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Posts posted by rerb
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11 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:
Blandits usually have a fairly good output from their alternators ie. capacity for running a fuel pump, and some. Batteries do go bad but if output voltage is anything other than 13.7 - 14.4 at 2k+ rpm, i'd say the R/R is goosed!
Looks like the case
9 volts at idle, 12.4 at 3k. F*cking money pit!
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New issue's popped up, the battery doesn't want to charge well while riding. After it's done trickle charging I'll test voltage while running, I just replaced it last year with a high end one so it shouldn't be the issue. Only other thought is the fuel pump uses too much current.
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1 hour ago, Gixer1460 said:
Idle pressure can be whatever the carbs can tolerate without overflowing!. 1 - 2psi is reckoned to be about right to obviate vagaries of gravity / atmospheric pressure delivery. Takes a good gauge to read accurately at very low pressures.
That might be it. My gauge reads to 80 PSI and is a basic marshal one. Definitely looking into EFI conversion, these carbs are getting annoying
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Hi, I'm using a stock malpassi regulator for my turbo. I turned the screw in until it hit the spring, and then added a quarter. my pressure gauge reads 0 psi at idle, however I get an almost perfect 12.5 afr all the way through 8 psi of boost.
I've read some people cut their springs, and that idle psi should be 1.5 to 2. My question is if anyone else has theirs at 0 idle psi without issue, because if not I must be getting fuel from somewhere I shouldn't, or maybe having a choke issue? Thanks.
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Simple turbo bandit, Nothing special to you guys but there's no other old school suzuki's in my area
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5 hours ago, Joseph said:
Oh well you already knew why
Haha yep, new switch, and redid the boost gauge, works now. 8 psi to the carbys, starting off slow. Stock ignition, busa pistons, APE studs and nuts. Aiming for 14 psi, sound safe for the motor?
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3 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:
A boost gauge on the plenum is fine - that's where most are fed from! If the gauge doesn't read, its either not working or no making boost! Is the oil drain above the running oil level? Any crankcase compression from boost will find leaks and really a welded fitting is better than a tapped and siliconed wanky joint! Your electrics seem to need attention - a switch is either on or off, wire it properly LOL!
Drain is exactly where the instructions said to tap it. As for the switch, it's a cheap 3 pin rocker, I replaced it this morning and it seemed to fix the issue, couldn't say why it was doing that
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Got the turbo b12 out on the road for the first time.
All things considered it went really well, only a handful of problems. For starters the boost gauge reads 0 at all times, but will creep up to one if i blow into it really hard. Mine's off the plenum, should it be off of the carb tops?
Also got a nice oil leak from where i drilled the pain for the turbo drain, caked the thing in sealant and crossed my fingers.
The fuel pump likes to turn off randomly, and the only way to turn it back on is to flip the rocker switch in the other direction. Very weird. It will run and work with the switch is to the left, then turn off, and only run when you move it to the right. This yo-yos on, probably a junk switch.
But the turbo spools, and I probably suffer from some pretty big boost leaks as the gauge reads 0 and it's not as fast as it should be. I'm going to replace all the plenum fittings, then doublecheck the hose clamps. But the bike went from being lame to floating the wheel in second, so I'd say it was successful
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On 6/22/2021 at 12:03 PM, Gixer1460 said:
Oh yeah - a virtual necessity if the ECU is controlling it!
Ah right, EFI
I'm still using carbs, but went with one to relieve the stock harness from carrying the load. Also makes it simpler to wire in the boost and AFR gauge.
At this point all I need to do is wait for an oil pan on the mail and connect the fuel lines. Looking forward to see what breaks first on the first ride lol
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5 hours ago, Maggotbreath said:
Safety wire should do the trick.
smart, good tip
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Hey, I'm buttoning up the plumbing on my turbo bandit, everything going pretty smooth. But I've installed everything around the stock fuel line with the stock clamp. I've tugged on it and it seems pretty firm, and the proboost instructions didn't mention changing it. I'm curious if anyone else kept it that way or swapped it out for a new hose with an injector or hose clamp. The problem with that is it's very tight in there, and I'm not sure I could get a beefier clamp in without pulling the T and replacing it with a longer one.
With probably 15 psi going to the bowls at full chat, anyone have a clue if it'll hold?
Thanks.
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10 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:
Part of Turbo Install juggling act! I still use an internal gate on mine which has some hybrid TD04/05 but it was hung first then everything built around it to suit - might have a piccy . .. . . . . Sorry doesn't show much!
Right. That bike looks amazing. Believe it or not, I just found the proboost kit recommends cutting that brace out of the frame. Not something I'd like to do, so I think I'll mount it to the side of the frame using clamps. Thanks.
As a side note, are you using a relay for your fuel pump?
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Hi all, currently piecing together my turbo b12. It uses the stock internal wastegate, but the actuator rod hits the front crossmember when bolted to the manifold. I can unscrew it from the turbo and get it to sorta fit on there, but i was wondering if anyone used the stock wastegate and how they mounted it. My first though is to ziptie the hell out of it, but it seems too important of a part of redneck into place. Any suggestions? It's a td05. Thanks.
(The reason it hits is I had to rotate the compressor housing for the outlet tube to clear the manifold pipes)
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3 hours ago, Reinhoud said:
Think before you make a breather somewhere, when you do it on the wrong spot it can throw out a lot of oil!! Learnt that the hard way..
I bet, im just going with the clutch screw breather for now. The proboost kit doesnt mention a breather, and its gravity drain (for now) so I think i'm set with just that breather.
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13 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:
I used to run 10psi with old skool suck through and used the std cam cover breather tower, an additional dash 10 out of the cam cover, a dash 10 from centre of clutch cover and a dash 8 out of the filler fitting - all to a vented recirc catch tank except the dash 8 that went to a open catch bottle. Too much? Maybe, but it didn't smoke or leak oil through gaskets!
Wow, taking no chances there. That makes sense, as far as your custom fittings went, was it as simple as drilling/tapping the cam and clutch cover? or did you have to weld in the fittings? And is the catch can necessary, or will a filter on the end of the hose work, as that's what I see a lot of. Thanks
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With the use of the turbo feeding oil back into the sump, is an extra crankcase breather a requirement? I see a few that replace the oil fill cap on the clutch cover, but they're close to $150 with shipping. Curious if anyone runs without one, aiming for low boost (~10 psi) for at least a month or two before cranking it up.
When I first disassembled the bike, I removed a capped off hose and labeled it "crankcase" However, a few months later when putting it all together I can't find where the hell it cam off from, if it does attach to the cases, would uncapping it and using a filter work too? attached is a photo of it off the internet. Mine was capped where the smaller clamp sits. Thanks.
Note, it is not the breather from the top of the valve cover.
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Installed #40 pilots instead if #37.5. Ran better, but the problem still persisted. I bought a set of #45 jets, but now I'm thinking that may be too rich. But with the other symptoms I have a feeling it's pretty lean, anyone have experience with these jet sizes?
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7 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:
Hmmm - i'm surprised its actually running at 22 AFR as most engines need to idle at 15:1 or less / richer. Never normally see 22:1 until in a closed throttle, engine over-run situation ie. injectors off.
It loses a few cylinders and hangs the idle super high if rev'd. I've checked the pilot bores and they're clear, i had 37.5 pilot jets in and bought some 40s. I replaced the intake boot seals all around, and cant find any other trace of a vacuum leak. Maybe the k&n filter with a performance exhaust is too much with the busa pistons, as it was running fine before the rebuild.
When free revving to 4k the afr drops to 14-15 and gets better from there, it's still gravity fed as of now
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2 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:
IMO it depends on what bearings are fitted! If traditional plain oil fed bearings then all water cooling can be blocked. If it has a ball bearing core with a plastic cage then I wouldn't run it without water cooling at all - the cages are moderately delicate and suffer with excess heat. If the bearings have metal cages then you could either leave them dry or could run oil through them - it will pull some heat away - not as good as water but the bearings aren't as delicate!
Cheap ol' journal bearing. not going for massive boost numbers right away (10-12psi for now) so ill stick with blocking them off. Right now Im dealing with idling at 22 afr with stock jets, so it'll be a minute before it's boosted.
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7 hours ago, wombat258 said:
Port with restrictor is oil inlet. Directly opposite that is the oil drain with 2 tapped holes either side. The other 4 ports are the water ports - blank off 2 and run the water inlet/outlet either side of the centre section.
If im not using water, should i blank all 4 off? thanks.
8 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:Blow some LOW pressure air through each one - the water passages will have very little resistance, the oil ones a bit more!
Good method, thank you
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Can anyone help identify which are the oil ports on this td05 16g? there are 6 ports total, the ones in red are what I believe to be oil, I know one of them is because I see the restrictor inside it. This turbo is a generic one that was meant for a DSM Mitsubishi, nothing included in the box helped me here, and I couldnt find much on the internet. thanks.
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Hi, The throttle on my b12 doesn't return when let off, I thought it was a cable/tension issue but after replacing them I noticed that the throttle linkage on the carbs barely returns when disconnected from the cables. I cleaned everything up with carb cleaner and sprayed some wd40 on the outside linkage but it's still stiff. Is there a way to internally lube the valves without getting lube all throughout the carbs? thanks.
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On 5/7/2021 at 11:35 AM, clivegto said:
Hanging idel can be caused by carbs not been balanced but your problem sounds worse than that.
I'm starting to think a diaphragm might've torn, or hasn't sealed right
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Bit of more info, The bike actually idles better when one of the vacuum take offs is removed from the top of the carbs. I discovered this after one fell off. With it on, the bike will sometimes refuse to go down from 3k rpms until choked. Engine runs rough from anywhere to quarter throttle as well.
I read that lower compression can cause a hanging idle, not too sure how, does that have any truth to it? Since CRE was lowered by busa pistons. This problem keeps on persisting. Thanks.
Malpassi regulator question
in Forced Induction
Posted
Only thing stopping me is $$$. No idea the cost of all the parts, plus if I go EFI i'm going with an ignition controller as well. All or nothing!