rerb

(99 b12) I'm reworking a lot of the sloppier parts of my bike from when I first built it 3 years ago, one of which is the fuel system. I have a standard size 255 lph fuel pump that was kind of "hanging" by the braided line between the battery and plenum, and have decided to build a sheet metal mounting plate for both. However I'm running into the problem where with the fittings installed the pump and filter are simply too long to fit horizontally in the area! I looked online for shorter pumps, however it seems Google has gotten far worse at filtering listings. I'd like to see what setups other folks here are running for mounting their pumps? I also remember seeing some in-tank methods used, but can't find the thread that it was in. Not sure if that's worth the headache of cutting open the tank or not thought!

Install error (i think?)- not sure how but last szn after taking off the head, i noticed 3 of the middle nuts were stripped off the studs. They were torqued to 50 ft lbs (and triple checked) when I put it together. They 100% were not stripped when I put it together (I even have an old video of checking torque right before throwing the valve cover on) I think I had the wrong length studs installed? I got a new set and made sure that they were in the correct orientation. rechecked torque at 55 ft lbs after letting it sit for a night. There were some scratches on the top of the jugs under the HG where the nuts were stripped, I assumed those were from the hg. I think I might have used those copper washers which I heard can lose tension overtime, who makes a good alternative? Main reason for the meth is i was about 200 deg intake temps on boost which was a little hot for my liking. With meth I sit around 160

Wow, glad to know. Whats limiting me is probably the afr which is fairly rich, but my power tapers off far sooner than the other charts of stock cams show. Next season I'll spice up the tune a little and maybe turn down the meth and see what that nets me. I had some issues with the APE head nuts coming loosing causing the head gasket to shimmy around a little, I'll probably pop the head off and inspect too. I have busa pistons but also shaved the cylinder a mm for extra compression so it's still fairly high.

Last dyno at 19 psi I made 238 hp and 165 ft-lbs. This is with .75 deg of timing pulled per psi and about 10.5-11 afr (playing it safe with watermeth). I peaked power at around 7k rpms and tq around 6k rpms, hp fell off by about 15 to the 10k rpm rev limit. Just curious what the shape of the graph would be with a set of 1100 cams as I have very long gearing and shortly past shifting into 3rd I'm out of peak power range when doing pulls. I'm happy with the peak power as it stock swingarm and I'd like to get some beefier rods in there before shooting for 300 (although I did boost creep to 270hp before the clutch started slipping on the dyno last season) Side note, I got the rolling anti-lag to work. Nearly flipped myself right over letting go of the button in 2nd at 6500 rpms haha. builds 6-8 PSI depending on how long I sit on it, huge help with rolls. Only took about 20 minutes to wire up to the horn button.

I've got 2 carb tops feeding into a larger vac line off a T, bov is completely open at idle. Under 12 psi opens beautifully, but above 12 I think there's some residual boost holding it shut briefly. I'll try cutting the spring and see if that helps. Pulls pretty strong vac using 2 sources, big improvement over just 1.

Anyone else ever run into this? Running a tial 50mm BOV on the lightest spring. I have 2 carb tops teed into a larger line that runs to the blow off. At low boost (Sub 10) it opens nicely, and I can hear the soft "woosh" but anything above that and I get compressor surge before the BOV opens. Sounds pretty sick, a loud chirp followed by the more traditional "woosh" but the whole reason I went for the 50mm was to eliminate surge. My HKS SSQV had no problems but it shat the bed. I'm pretty sure my watermeth ate the internal diaphragm which is why I selected for the piston and O-ring style tial. Any ideas? The BOV is fully open at idle (also not ideal, but this is still carb'd so it makes no real difference) so I don't think vacuum strength is my issue.

Excellent info. I've been meaning to look into lockups as my current method is 4 HD clutch springs and that gets a bit annoying in traffic. I'm already talking with a shop about an extended swingarm, and looking at rear shock options. Then it's efi in order to run e85 and some Carillo rods. Got schooled by a stretched nitrous zx10r and want to do something about it

My current launch is floating the revs to about 4500, then holding abt 3/4 throttle while modulating the clutch. Very hard to get right, I either ride the clutch too much or instantly wheelie. The limiter would be nice so bounce it off 4k while holding 1/2 or so throttle, get the turbo spinning juuust a little then dump it and go. But yeah, nowhere near WOT until 3rd

Wow, that thing is fast!

Nice! And yeah, my 60fts are 2+ which is def hurting times across the board. Gonna tune the ignitech adjustable limiter for a better launch. I was looking into boost by gear kits but it would be easier to mess with that during an efi conversion.

For anyone curious - bike (99 b12) and me with gear weigh in at 685lbs (cat scale) and dynod 260/149. These runs it made less, estimating 215-230 hp with the muffler on and 17 psi. Afr ~10.5 (little too fat for my liking, but it's a failsafe incase the meth stops working) and .75 deg of timing pulled per psi. Stock swingarm. Anyways - 60 to 130 mph: Best so far: 5.67 Worst: 5.99 (5 runs) Problem is wheelies in 2nd and 3rd, aswell as 3rd topping out at exactly 126 mph gps forcing me to hit another shift to clear 130 1/8: 7.34 @104 best, 7.6 @ 101 worst. Surprisingly consistent, both dragy and actual track times have me within a few tenths of that. 0-60: Best: 3.70 Worst: 4.01 Hard to get the launch right, purely operator error! N/a I ran 2.9, 3.1, and 3.0 consecutively. More controllable without boost in 1st lol. 1/4 - haven't really done much, rolled to a 13.20 @ 54 mph after letting off at the 1/8th. ET calculators don't work well on boosted bikes on stock swingarms, but we think it'll be right around the 10 mark based off roll races I've done against similar cars. Anyone have some times to share? Gonna focus on improving these areas over the summer. Have a dyno day tomorrow to try and throw some timing back in to liven her up a little.

Right, yep. I got it programmed in and was set to a flip switch, I just wasn't sure how to get it to play nice with the clutch switch itself. I'm going to try starting the bike, disconnecting the jump, and see if that works. It'll also double as a no lift shift aswell which is nice. For whatever reason the bike hates clutchless shifting under boost, but is fine off boost

I had more issues with the frame crossbars than the wheel/fender. I cut out the lower cross and had to shave away at the upper one to clear the wastegate actuator rod, this is with the proboost merge collector. Stock oil cooler lines also wouldn't play nice between the headers so I had to upgrade to stainless.

Anyone know roughly how to wire the 2step function of the ignitech cdi to the clutch switch (1999 b12) Previous owner jumped the wires to bypass it. I tried running the input and ground to the separate switch wires but nothing happened. Jumping them together so the bike starts probably causes problems there, but I'm not sure what I'm doing! Thanks

Hey all, im lookin to get my swinger extended about 10". I contacted FBM but they said they can't do it for a while and theres no one local who can do it for me. I know holeshot used to make drop in extenders but it seems they're discontinued now. Anyone here know where I can get mine done? Thanks.

Blow thru - fixed the issue of it having 0 power until 6k by shaving the head a mm. Gained 40hp from 4k and up off boost just from that. Used to hit 100hp at 7200 now it hits 100 at 5800, no more need for nitrous lol

I think the Chinese crap IWG is just too junk to do its job. Gonna get the proboost turbo and external wastegate to solve this issue. I am looking to push a lot more power but I'll need to throw in a proper set of rods and pistons to go above 300

Watched some gopro footage of some of my pulls, with my boost controller full shut (10 psi) my gauge read as high as 25!! Which explains why it kept cutting out (ignition) This only happens with my exhaust off. I'm using an internally gated turbo, would mocking up an exhaust stop this, or do I need to look into external wastegates? Thanks.

Got to dyno it today, 260 HP and 150 Ft lbs. This is at 11 AFR flat, But Arttu raises a good point so we'll see how it feels on 108 mains. Felt good to hit my goal of 250 after a year or two lol. New problems arise, however: clutch slip! Currently using the Swedish conversion with 3 springs, I might try new plates and a 3rd HD spring first then get a lockup if necessary. Opinions on best clutch disc mfg for these bikes?

Mains are at 110, but yeah. Seems to be spark blowout. Gapped down to .015 and pulled out a few more degrees of timing and that seemed to solve the issue. Ordering some coils from ignitech and stepping down to 108 mains since my afr is mid 10s on meth. Didn't realize how much harder more comp and water was on ignition

Finally got the bike up and goin after raising the CR, fixing my blown seal and adding watermeth and an ignitech cdi. Huge difference!! Much better low end and it does wheelies without being spooled up now, and my 2 part iat gauge shows pre injection temps around 120 and post Injection at around 60. My problem is after the first gear or two, when you really lean into it, it starts bogging and missing around 7k, and completely hits a wall at 8. If you stay tapped the revs won't climb and the bike won't go any faster. Adding choke doesn't help, and the afrs are around 11 or so. I'm having trouble finding the cause of this issue, currently thinking either I have a problem with my fuel return circuit, or the ignition is too weak. I'm going to try gapping the plugs down to .015" (.5mm), but I also wanted to ask if it makes sense that raised compression needs smaller jets? (Skimmed a mm off the cylinders). Is it more efficient and thus choking out from too much fuel? I asked a shop and they said usually when they increase compression they need to go up in jet size. Curious what your experiences are, as it might help pinpoint the issue, thanks.

When you wound them in without bottoming them out, did you still get them to 15ft lbs? And to make sure, the nuts torque to 42 ft lbs, right? APE says that but since the hg mightve been loose I just want to verify.

So the machine shop told me the head had scratches from the head gasket at the middle 2 cylinders, he thinks either from too high cylinder pressure, or the issue with the head studs. Anyone have a clue or dealt with this before? I don't want to bolt it all together just to blow a headgasket once I turn up the power, and I don't see much mention of that from other forums.

That's what I've been fighting, I'm also replacing the carb boots and adding more clamps to the intake incase for whatever reason boost in the plenum isn't reaching the carbs. I had issues where boost would blow the lip of the silicone connector just a tad off the carbs, I added some plenum supports but I'm not sure that fixed it at max boost. I tuned my AFRs to be more on the safe side (12 - 11.5) so it's not the most efficient, but I agree I should be seeing more power than I am. Could also be Eblag turbo bs. I guess we'll see if it's gotten better next dyno day

Haha, once together I'll do some test runs on wastegate (8 psi) with meth enabled, while logging IATs from the sensor. If all is well I plan to slowly push more, making sure temps and afrs still good. I'll keep doing that until I see 250 wheel! It's worth mentioning the sub 200hp runs were on the old turbo with a bad seal, after putting the new one on at 18 psi is when heat became the real issue