rerb
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Posts posted by rerb
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9 hours ago, Arttu said:
Generally speaking idle can be leanest where it still runs steadily. In practise that's usually around 13-14 but some engines may want a bit richer around 12.
I guess your hanging idle is somewhat separate issue, like air leak or something similar. And then overly rich mixture happens to fix it.
Thats what you'd think, but i cant find any leak for the life of me. It also runs amazing on anything other than the hanging idle. Weird.
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Hey guys, I'm curious what your AFR reads at idle. My idle stays low (500 - 750) and Dips to almost 0 blipping the throttle. typical symptoms of a rich mixture, right? the afrs at idle are 11.8 - 12.5. The confusing bit is that turning up the idle screw fixes the issue, but causes the idle to hang real bad around 2k. A symptom of lean idle. However the AFR stays the same (12ish) while hanging. My buddies boosted civ runs 15 afr at idle. Curious what you guys have before I go buying and swapping jets. Thanks.
I had the same Hanging idle on stock jets too, it started after the rebuild.
I really want to convert to EFI, carbs are a headache.
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On 8/10/2021 at 9:48 PM, Reinhoud said:
The holes where the studs go in, are this blind holes, or all the way drilled? If drilled all the way, you need sealant on the studs when you put them in..
Not sure. This is the only spot where it leaks, and I didnt use sealant on any other stud. It might possibly be coming from the oil drain tubes too, but It's much more focused around the stud. I'm just going to roll with it, doesn't bother me much. If it lasts the next 2 months of riding before winter I'll double check everything when I tear the motor apart again. It was just weird to me how oil could come from there.
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1 hour ago, Gixer1460 said:
Whilst some may say excessive I had a -8 from oil filler, -8 from cam cover std. breather, additional -10 from cam cover and a -10 from center of clutch cover! The -10's went to a vented and recirculating catch can, the -8's to a plain open catch can.
Right. I think ill go for another on the clutch cover.
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1 hour ago, Reinhoud said:
The stud might need a bit off sealant on the thread.
It might need a new base gasket.
That would be unfortunate as i replaced all gaskets 1000 miles ago. As for the source, it does seem to be seeping from there. I cleaned it off and watched it as it idled and some creeped out. Where have you guys tapped for extra breathers? I have the one off the oil fill currently.
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Hi, I've noticed my boosted b12 has developed an oil leak from one of the studs by the cylinder base. My only question is how? I thought the only studs that carried oil had o ring gaskets and were completely concealed in the block. Yet this stud has oil seeping from where it threads into the block. Any ideas? Is this a sign of insufficient crankcase ventilation?
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16 hours ago, Reinhoud said:
Is it blowing black smoke?
Not that I can tell. Again, if it wasnt for people telling me that I could be washing my cylinder walls I'd be happy to run it the way it is.
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5 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:
Personally I'd try to not go richer than about 11:1 and with decent EFI control maybe 12:1, but with carbs AFR is a crap shoot! IMO as long as everything else is ok ie. Ignition retard on boost, boost control, cooling a 14:1 AFR on boost isn't bad just not optimal but if one of those things gets out of whack then that's why richer mixtures are recommended but tooo far is also not good - excess fuel through the turbine can burn up blades!
Eblag jetting - stage 5 means nothing! Garage and seat of the pants tuning can only take you so far - put the bike on a dyno and get it set right without guesswork!
I want to dyno it, I'm just worried it'll get too hot being ran up so hard without good airflow.
To lean it out, would adjust base pressure on the fpr help at all? or will that not really affect mixture
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I see a lot of talk on how too rich will wash cyl walls and cause glazing/damage. Currently I run 10 afr on boost, 10.5 - 12.8 off boost. My pilots are too big, 47.5. The reason for that was a mysterious hanging idle, which now I'm certain was because it was too rich, not lean, as the idle dips when pulling the clutch in. I'll fix that eventually.
My mains are stage 5 from Eblag, (forgot the exact #) as I was hitting 14 afr on boost. 3 needle shims. Overall it runs pretty great, if I go WOT before boost at low rpms it bogs a bit, but if I roll on and go into boost it feels amazing. Should I be concerned about cylinder damage at these AFRs? gas is very iffy here (bumfuck America) and other tuners don't trust the 91/93 at all. For this reason I'd much rather keep it rich, but I don't want it to be too rich. Thanks.
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On 7/26/2021 at 2:51 AM, Gixer1460 said:
Don't have experience myself but have seen a 'ghetto' install that was done by a 'well known' tuner for a shootout that didn't have a BOV and he managed to blow the carb tops clear off - whether through over boost or over-run boost spike I don't know, either way it went with a bang.
IMO, the thing is, when closing the throttle @ 12psi boost, the already generated air flow which has velocity will hit the closed butterflies and can bend them, but because the air speed drops due to the restriction its pressure spikes upwards and is reflected back to the compressor blades possibly bending them. They may not break immediately but cycles of doing it over and over will fatigue them and they could break at WOT and then get ingested into the engine! So its not just the cheap Chinky turbo you risk but the engine as well!
Personally i'd keep the BOV and fix the connection problem !
Makes sense. Better safe than sorry, thanks fore the answer.
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Does anyone here not use a BOV? if so I'm curious if removing mine would damage anything other than the turbo. My thought is without the quick release of pressurized air from the BOV, would closing the throttle at boost damage the slides in the carbs since they'll still be experiencing 12+ psi of boost? My td05 is an extremely cheap Eblag one, and I'm planning an upgrade soon, so I'm not too worried about it. My issue is that the BOV hits the engine case and due to the awkward angle of the silicone pipe connecting it, leaks out boost. For the time being I plan to delete it with a pipe, but don't want to damage anything. ny not having a BOV while I build a new setup. Thanks.
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Hi, since my stock cooler is worn pretty bad, and the stock lines are very close to touching the exhaust, I decided to upgrade. I got a m16 x 1.5 banjo, but the bolt has 2 cross drilled holes which is rather small. Should I drill some more? the stock one has 4 much larger ones. Thanks.
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8 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:
Don't do it ! Having raced with nitrous and around ProMod bikes running nitrous it is the most unpredictable performance enhancer available bar none! Many have tries with varying success using a 'little wake-up' shot of gas to get a low end boost. NOS MUST BE USED WOT - if not you risk real damage! Whoever said it has cooling effects is mad - it may have a small inlet cooling effect but its use produces stupid quantities of heat and get it wrong - component melting qualities! And the elephant in the room is . . . . . . . it always runs out! A 1lb bottle will give maybe 20 - 30 seconds @ 60hp hit, or maybe a minute @ 30hp hit.
This is the quandary with turbo's, they suffer low down if you want a good top end. You either get a smaller turbo to boost earlier, and add water injection and intercooling to reduce max boost temps so reducing top end boost loss or drop a few teeth and live with the reduced top end. Sophisticated EFI / ECU's can help by adding fuel and retarding timing low down to build boost artificially but its the nature of the beast - you can't have everything!
Damn, I guess the nitrous forum sites are a little biased with their descriptions then Thanks for the info
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My bike is running crazy strong at 14 psi, almost un-ridable at full throttle, but I noticed it's a total dog below 5 or 6k rpms, which definitely slows me down with taller gearing than stock. I just rode a buddies fz1000 and was amazed at the low end power, I could pop the wheel at 5k in second with only throttle. That got me thinking of ways to return some power down to the lower range while keeping the face melting top end.
Since my engine is carbureted, wouldn't a wet shot of nitrous make tons of sense? No jetting or fueling change required, plug and play, and can be used off boost for smoother power delivery. I've also seen it has cooling capabilities too, so using it on boost would help keep cyl temps down. Has anyone here tried nitrous with boost? I see 1lb wet kits for around $900 with adjustable shot sizes, seems like a fairly inexpensive way to add even more insanity without major work being needed. Assuming It's done right.
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3 hours ago, clivegto said:
Small bit of stainless steel 90° angle mounted to the carb rubber mount. It's not rocket science lol.
Right, excuse my stupidity. Pictures looked like the screw was going into the boot at first glance. And PS I have drilled carb boots to mount stuff on ATV's before without issue. Wouldn't want to do it on a turbo bike though.
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1 hour ago, clivegto said:
Like this.
So you drilled all the way through the carb rubbers? Or just a bit and tapped them? Mine don't have any hole/thread.
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6 hours ago, no class said:
highly doubt you bent a rod ….. not enough force from a starter motor to do that .
Yep, got everything back together, ran like shit for the first minute but stabilized out. On the bright side, the new mains set my afr to a nice 12.5 on full boost, on the down side, I keep popping the plenum boots off the carbs. I have hose clamps on but the awkward shape of the carb prevents them from doing too much. What do you guys use to secure yours?
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10 hours ago, Joseph said:
No point asking now but didn't you remove the plugs and turn it by hand ?
Cranked it with the starter. Cyls are dry now. Putting it back together today with new oil and praying I didn't bend a rod because of a single kinked line.
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Welp, without touching a single asclet of the regulator I went from 0 psi to the carbs to 10 psi. Obviously there's my issue, but as to why, I still have no clue. absolutely praying I don't have a Bent rod.
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Hi, not too sure how it happened, but after tidying up the fuel system to make it more efficent/less restrictive and swapping larger main jets in (not even touching the floats) the bike wouldn't start, and acted like a dead battery. It was dark and I couldn't smell anything, so I tried jumping it to no avail. Then I stood the bike up and watched in horror as a metric ass ton of gas came right out the turbo air filter.
I took the plugs out and cranked it over, bit of gas in cyl 2, and an extreme amount in cyl 1, it seemed to last forever. I checked the plenum, bone dry. Nothing immediately in the pitot either, although it could have been since the was gas in the charge pipe right off the compressor housing. The wastegate exhaust pipe has gas in it too.
I'm planning to take the floats out and inspect, but is there anything else to look out for that might've caused this?
Could I have fucked a rod trying to crank it over?
I obviously need to change the oil too, but how about getting rid of the leftover gas in the compressor of the turbo?
Anything else to look out for?
Thanks.
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3 hours ago, Arttu said:
I would say around 1000€ is quite realistic ballpark figure for basic low cost setup. You can reach that by using some used parts and sourcing new ones carefully. Naturally you can make it cheaper if that's the main goal. Building the ECU by yourself, sourcing all the components from junkyard, cutting corners here and there and so on. Might be interesting as a challenge but I'm not sure if it makes sense if you want a well functioning bike with reasonable efforts.
The ECU itself can naturally use big part of the budget but I would say you shouldn't concentrate too much on price of it. The cheapest DIY version are maybe 150-200€ while you can get reasonably good ones for 350-600€. The rest of the stuff will still cost the same no matter how cheap or expensive the ECU is.
True, when the time comes I'll keep this advice in mind. I think the fuel pressure gauge is too crap to read low psi, as pinching the line from the fpr with my fingers i can feel that fuel is being pumped through at more than 0 psi.
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8 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:
Unlikely! More likely increasing load via higher gears needing more fuel that isn't being supplied by the pump due to the low volts issues? No one said turbo bikes are easy!
Yep, figuring that out now! I was curious and popped the choke on about 30% - HUGE power increase, runs much better. Going to replace the r/r then jet up/ add shims from there
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On 6/21/2021 at 2:39 PM, Chadillac said:
What jets are you running?
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I've noticed the bike runs progressively leaner throughout the gears going WOT. Floats closing too early? 12 afr through first, 13.5 through second, then more than 14 through 3rd.
Smaller turbo
in Forced Induction
Posted
Hi, I'm currently running a td05 16g at 12 psi. Power is great, but after having my fun I realize I'd much prefer a smaller, quicker spooling turbo for a moe nippy bike, one that I can hear the turbo actually spooling at less than 60 mph.
I would like to stick to my flange, so does anyone know a smaller turbo that fits that flange? I doubt there's clearance for an adapter.
Thanks.