RGSX

I'll give that a try with Gear Commander and see what I can come up. Sprocket of 17 or 18T seems to be common choices up front, for the rear anything from 43 to 50. Chain length is still a mystery. No listings for the efe seems to be more common than I expected, I've come across a number of other web sites which also have a gap for 84-86 efe. I did find a UK website has a complete conversion kit but shipping costs were horrendous($100 CDN). I'll need to piece something together from N American suppliers.

Gear Commander is great tool for sprocket calculation. Except for one oversight, it seems to list every bike Suzuki ever made... except the 84-86 GS1150/1100efe. Maybe I can still make it work if I dig a little deeper for technical info.

Good info thanks, it always helps when someone has been down that road before. I've only done two other chain conversions over 40 years it's not something I've any significant knowledge of.

That's helpful. I was confused by one supplier offering an 5/8 offset front sprocket but also selling front sprockets with no offset, non stock wheels would explain that.

I've been searching the web for 2hours searching info on chain conversion for my 84 1150efe from the oem 630 to a 530. I'm finding conflicting options and products. I'm sure this anything new to this forum if want to share your experience it would be helpful. I did find a 18T front sprocket with a 5/8" offset at www.suzukiperformancespares.co.uk . From what I've read 17t or 18t seem to be the most common choice. What is the equivalent 630 rear sprocket tooth count for a 530 rear sprocket? Chain length? I came across a website that recommended the EK MVYZ chain, is it a good choice?

Unsprung weight is different and more critical than sprung weight in performance of the bike. I could lose 30lbs of personal weight and it would help in acceleration but keeping the tires in contact with the road and changes in direction is more dependant on reducing unsprung weight. Lighter wheels, sprockets, lighter rotors, chain, 20 grams x 6 here and there add up. The technician that does the critical work on my bikes has spent time as a Crew Chief on the WorldSBK circuit says the correct priority for performance modification is to "Look after the suspension first, it needs to turn." Reducing weight can be as expensive adding hp and torque but the cumulative effects of weight saved can remarkably change how the bike handles. How fast you can go in a straight line doesn't matter much if it can't turn safely on a rough surface.

Some people have only the most basic tools, some don't even have a shed to store their tools or to do their work in, they do what they can with what they have. No one knows how to modify a motorcycle until they begin with their first one, that includes you and I.

Unsprung weight is mass in motion, it has momentum and kinetic energy. A change in motion (going up and down) results in a change of momentum and requires a force applied over a period of time. The effects of unsprung motion are amplified as is the weight by a factor of 6, every gm lost matters they add up it's why manufacturers of performance bikes and aftermarket performance parts pay attention to shaving off grams everywhere, it's cumulative. Lighter caliper, sprockets, tires, titanium bolts all shave off grams, it's why forks were inverted. Reducing usprung weight matters keeping wheels in contact with those crappy roads.

I suspect anyone looking for the block off plates doesn't have the means to make any for themselves. Adding block off plates to the anti-dive units is preserving the look but is adding unsprung weight.

That's true. There are several methods to disable the anti-dive discussed on the GSresources forum https://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?257845-Block-off-plate-for-anti-dive&highlight=disable+anti-dive Block off plates, block the feed line, gut the anti-dive unit, RaceTech emulators. The 1st Block off plates, probably the least attractive looking and most expensive for what you get,plus more unsprung weight. The 2nd and 3rd very inexpensive, you keep the look , unsprung weight stays the same. The 4th, the gold valve emulators combined with racetech springs really upgrade the suspension performance by several decades. If you have a drill press you could install them yourself.

There are several ways that don't require plates. When I looked into the cost of the plate kits it was was pricey for what you were getting. I applied that cost towards Race Tech Emulators their install eliminates the anti-dive feature and supplies much improved suspension and you can keep the oldskool look of the anti dive units. I've seen a few bikes with the block off plates but imo the anti-dive units look better.

L -40mm Dia -15mm

I likely have the best tuner/mechanic in the country he takes my bikes for vigorous test rides when I leave them with him for tuning. If there was a serious issue with the clutch he would've mentioned it along with the other deficiencies he makes note of. I do intend to install a HD clutch in a year or two when I go with a big bore.

me and every other vehicle at the intersection knows when I've shifted into 1st

When I ride with my brother in law on his HD he laughs at my clunky tranny

I had no idea the 1100 was in short supply, I came across one last year summer that I could've picked up for a couple hundred . In hindsight I should've bought it as I recall four years ago I two offers over $1k for my engine when it still had two broken plugs still frozen in the head and hadn't run in 25-30 years. Rebuilt head, RS36 mikuni's and headers it has amazing mid range torque and an exceptional tuner, my mechanic figures 130 rear wheel hp. With with an overbore he estimates it'll be somewhere around 140-145hp at the rear. I'll definitely need to upgrade the clutch.

RaceTech comes with appropriate springs for what ever your weight. I considered bandit and GSXR forks too but when I calculated all the additional conversion costs the RaceTech upgrade was more economical.

Installing a RaceTech emulator kit eliminates the anti-dive feature and would be a definite upgrade in performance.

Eeew handy stuff, not sure I'd be confident enough to trust it on a fuel tank but I can see it's potential for may other applications.

welcome, always love another Katana project. With LOTS of pictures

Yup deal with the alarms and locks later. Saw it happen on youtube, van pulled up alongside and in less than 30 seconds it was gone.

aren't all V&H 4 into 1 ? More torque with 4-2-1 I guess it's like pods vs airbox.

RRR/Hindle has options for mufflers or buy without and put on your own. My 1150efe 4-2-1 from RRR has worked well for me. But I do miss the centre stand.

Ripple Rock Racers has a Hindle Stainless steel 4-2-1 for a Kat https://www.ripplerockracers.com/product/suzuki-katana-gs1100-hindle-stainless-steel-exhaust-systems-to-fit-1982/

That's the exact year and colour as mine, well it was until I got bored and changed it up. As mine is a Canadian sale it's an 1150efe