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wraith

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Posts posted by wraith

  1. The MK2 clock's you have are all electronic and when you remove the back they are just a sircuit bord.

    The gsxr clock's are quite a deep clock compare to the MK2 bandit ones and you'd have to make a new mounting bracket.

    I've got a set of bandit mk1 clock's on my gs1000 which look pretty good on.

    Have you look at B4 clock's or even Zephyr clock's

  2. The old 6 pots you got on some b12 and some later 90's gsxr models are not the best, they work but not the best. The Nissan 4 pots are better.

    I've got a set of 6 pots off a gsxr1000k1-k2 with a radial master cylinder on my gs1000 and I like them they work very well, lots of feel and stop the bike well 

    I think, if I remember correctly the earlier 6 pots are different to the latter gsxr1000 6 pots.

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  3. Yes and No, both the exhaust and inlet cams out. He had the exhaust cam out the counted the 24 and set the inlet to that, so both out.

    Now both are set right, still seems nice and responsive but on noise like the bottom end is about to drop out of the engine :D

    The main giveaway for me was the slots on the end of the cams where not horizontal to the head/cam face.

    • Like 1
  4. Good news, just been out to the garage and put the battery back on after 4 hrs of charge, bike started first time and no bad engine noise, well apart from the standard oil cooled rattles xD so happy with that, mite as it's here have a check of the tapets but I think the only bad news is, he needs to get a new battery xD as it's definitely lossing charge.

    One thing I've learned, is bandit 1200 will run with the cam timing out O.o

  5. I believe the Dyna S for the 16v gs750 (or That's what I think you mean by gs750 and where you are ;)) will do the job, bypasses the cdi and goes start to the coils but you my need the older ATU off a early gsx/gs

  6. 1 minute ago, Jaydee said:

    Is this with the exhaust camshaft sitting it place without being bolted down?

    I always find that the arrow points a tiny bit downwards past the rocker surface until you start tightening down the cam caps. Then the angle of the cam wheel changes angle as camshaft gets tightened down.

    Before install of cams, I pull the cam chain over to the mating surface and mark the pin above it with a tyre marker. Then I know the arrow has to point below this pin. 

    This is with the cam bolted down, should of got some pics.

  7. Ok, quick update.

    I've removed cam cover set timing on ATU and found that the number 1 arrow on ex cam was sat in the right link on chain but was pointing slightly upwards (say the 2.30 poison) not level with the cam cover face, but the next place for it to go, it sits facing slightly down below the cam cover face. Could put the arrow between the two rivet links and the arrow would be dead level with the cam cover face but that's not how the manual says it should go.

    The slots on the end of the cams are more level the way I've set it (number 1 arrow pointing slightly down)

    Number of pins where right. I know without slotted cam sprockets you don't get the arrow dead level with the face.

    So was thinking and can't find anything in manual, is there any particular way/place the can chain should go on the crank cam sprocket?

    Mate says he has replaced the cam chain as when he got the bike it was making the noise then, but got worse and was told it was the cam chain.

    Have not tried starting the bike today after altering the timing, as his battery was flat O.o

    Cheers for any help.

     

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