PanzerWomble

It's a carb issue not a blocked oil filter .... OK so got a high RPM using the pilots .... adjusted down with the throttle slide control and yet still hunting. ....and you reckon the diaphrams are ok ( how have you checked this ? ) POPs = Air leaks ....exhaust or manifold ....or switched ignition leads possibly . I'm deja view on similar issues a few years ago n here ...which was a crappy throttle cable sticking .

As Tony says you will need to back the mixture/pilot screws out on all 4 carbs as they control idle circuit - the knob in the middle (57) just sets the throttles to idle. Turn pilot screws in GENTLY until they bottom. Turn all out 1/4 turn at a time (wait 15 seconds between each 1/4 turn adjustment to give engine time to adjust) until highest RPM idle is obtained. Normally do not turn the pilot screw out more than 2.5 turns. If you must turn it out more than 2.5 turns go up to the next larger pilot jet. I've not an ET manual to hand so check that as it should give the the factory setting . Once you get to high idle you should be able to turn the one control screw ( 57) in the middle of the bank to get the 800 revs. Pilot screws are the ones in the turret at the front of the carb nearest the engine Pilot jets sit below part 38

Some great looking kit there !

I've a real soft spot for Nottingham , really good food, great nightlife ....seen more bands at Rock City than I care to remember, and it had all the NCC crew there 20-30 years ago , real biker town . And a pint of old Puke is always good.

It's fuel , pilot jets as they control the starting circuit, or the choke not working 100%most likely. If it starts ok when hot , and revs out fine when its going it points to those , rather than the exhaust. valve clearances etc etc .

Saw that one for sale on the 'bay . Was supposed to be a regular runner , how is it ? If you decide to swap out the wheels for something newer I might be interested in acquiring your old ones Any excuse for a trip to the Trip in Nottingham is welcome . I can still recall the exploits of Notts Custom Cycles back when men were men etc etc , and didn't need to "identify" & Welcome !

100% can feel that , the 80's 90's for me seemed to be some huge arms race to see who could go faster to the pub . To many nice bikes sold off to finance the next one .

Bought my first GS1000 cheap for similar rattling clutch basket , the owner thought the bottom end had gone ...smug factor 10 after tightening up that hub nut and realising it was bargain I had hoped. Then I sold it on dammit .

I would ....jus saying

Shit............ did I snooze through the build log ? I hate getting older . Nice end result , looks a fook sight better than the 2022 Suzuki "Craptana" offering .

Did the same on a GSX550 used to blow more fork seals afterwards, reckon the oil has to go somewhere right ?

It's looking a lot better than on page 1 , there was a nice bike in that barn .

Welcome re- the front end on these you've two options realistically 1 - try an revive what you have with new seals , braided hoses , sintered pads and the like , oh and find some decent 16" rubber . You can remove the ADive and plate it without too much issues . or 2 swap the entire front end out for something more modern , ditch the Anti Rattle units and the 16 in. wheel. ............most of the builds on here including mine went for option 2....but then take a look around at where you are Mines not that radical, nor did it involve any real engineering other than lining shit up - teapot front end and back wheel

My pal used to shim single cam Honderz ( wet dreams mainly) with scraps of coke cans back in the day ....I crap you not . "Well it's all aluminium " he would add when I'd question his methods over beer or so in the back yard . Shocked the engineer in me to the core, however , shimmed they would be , run they would for 20 minutes , and in Yellow pages they went . He was a big lad with a passion for matt black chops .......as few customers came back to complain it must have worked ok ....I'm guessing

I'd have thought with your specific username you'd be making use of all brakes possibile to stop....................

Always good to put your safety in the hands the the cheapest shite from China .....I like the cheap "noodle based" brake pads on mine , I mena they are vegan but identify as asbestos so what could possibly go wrong ? Plate of HMS Gsxcester perchance ?

Thanks for confirming If you have compression , and a good spark, then I'd look at the pilot circuit in the carbs . Quick check using tape as TonyGee suggested is a good idea . You've upped displacement by 13% , removed the airbox so it will be running lean by quite a bit . Pilot air jet / mixture screws control the zone from 0-25% of throttle , main jet and needle control after that to max - so if it revs once its started started pilot circuit's yer problem fella . You might get a Dynorod kit for this , but it'll be as easy just to play around yourself as these are simple carbs.

Have you checked the compression , I'm assuming you bought a second hand set of pistons and barrel block , they might be shite ? Also - spark on the nail for timing ? GS750 ...the slide mikunis have just a manual choke flap , should be easy to check if it's working on or off. If choke is on, compression is ok ( and a test might also hightlight carb leaks to a point), and still not starting you may want to play with the pilot jet setting and or sizes . More airscrew out to 2.5 turns max ( half a turn and try, then another half a turn etc ) and if still not playing increase the pilot jet one size and start at one turn out again . Pods and no exhaust as I'm sure you're aware = running very weak , does it get really hot when it runs? It'll probs want a step up in mains , needles rasing as well . Stock settings as picture If you want a link to download a copy of the suzi manual pm me

Ah you see, I live and learn I thought it said " comes in Flat Pack ...." My son is off to live in Gothenburg this month , so he'll have to brush up on his conversational Swedish ! He's not a bad wrench monkey on this older stuff either.

Ah Swedish ....you'll enjoy these ol adverts then ! Allegedly Swedish models were 90hp not 86hp , however that might just have been the importers claim .

Looking good , might be worth ditching the 24 year old tyres before you go too far though Both my tyres were "legal" on mine in terms of tread, but you'd have been hard put to mark them with a Stanley knife, they were that hardened , certainty I did'n't want to go around roundabouts on them . It was the "new tyres on small sizes" vs " new tyres at modern (er) sizes " discussion that prompted me down the wheel swap route , and then it all snowballed .. Not even sure if there are many options are on the old 16" fronts anymore (110/90/16 ??? ) Battleaxes used to be a good choice but think they have long gone hopefully someone else may have some good suggestions

Good news - see bit of TLC , waggle everything around , and it all comes round again . My opinion only - These are solid engines , the electrics are stronger than the earlier GS's and the only real weak spot is the suspension , your shock if still original is likely shot , and that 16" anti dive front end ...is easily swappable if you find it a bit crap . As TG says , get some miles on it . Mine sat for at least 11 years, and the only thing I did to get it up and running again was ultrasonically clean the carbs....& only because I have a cleaner . Odd oil leak , but nothing major at all .

FYI I'm 99% certain there is no Heinous or Clamydia Manuals available only the Workshop Suzi one . Joys of having a short model lifespan .

A quick google will give you the answer, and also where you can buy it .