PanzerWomble

You should already have this but I'll stick it up for reference

Drowning in petrol ....running rich ......goddam it . If it were me I'd set the pilots back to 40 , and try 2 .25 out ( assuming pilot screws are ok at their ends as well ) as a base point . If it were spitting on 40 could be your air leak running a bit lean . Move the screws in and out till you get the highest sustainable idle then turn it back on the knob . I'd also be tempted to look at 120 mains but TBH they aint the problem for idling . Needles circlip set on middle position ( there are five) again they aint the problem for idling . If the carbs aren't being held open mechanically - trapped cables blah blah then it has to be the fueling....in which case back to standard as the only start point . Your exhaust doesn't look like it needs much more than std jects , and your running the airbox. No idea why Spanish bikes would be jetted different , Benidorm is about as much as sea level as you can get .

Having just done the same job Emanual advises..........

It's idling high because there is too much petrol getting in the motor , either on one or all four of the cylinders. This is the problem , it's not air leaks or CDI units or even buggered plugs although all of those will not help with running. You have the correct carbs for the bike ? ID 31310 - 32mm Mikunins. You've cleaned these till they are blue in the face -check ok ? You're 100% certain you have reassembled them correctly ? * Plenty of slack and well lubed throttle and choke cable - check ok ? Cables not getting trapped for any reason ? Tried physically pushing the butterfly mechanism shut whilst it is running ? Pilot screws all same and set - not sure why you have them at 1.5, should be 2.25 but possible someone has over jetted it ? Pilot jet should be 40 main jet 120. Choke mechanisms all retracting nicely into the bodies ? All slides move up and down easily in the carb bodies , not warped or slightly bent needles holding them up slightly ?- If you have an air line you can check the movement of the slides by feeding air into the upper passages to make them move up , and then observe the fall . They should all be the same , which will also be shown on the gauges you are using for synching. Identify if it is one cyl or all of them - Are all four pipes getting the same amount of hot , remove a lead from each cyclinder in turn to see if there is a one that makes a difference. How does it idle under load, if you let out the clutch in first with the brake on is the bike fighting you or does it settled down to a lower RPM easily ? Again one cytl or the bank of 4 ? Finally when balancing the correct sequence , it's middle - balance 2/3 .....left balance 1/2 .....right balance 3/4 . In No 3 is running the best then balancing correclty maybe the issue . *Have you got the proper workshop manual ? If not I can share it with you .

.............And it'll probably still be running too rich......most likely on the pilot circuit ............although it might be a sticky throttle cable in the end I fear .

I knew someone do a similar trick with some sillydream carbs back in the early 90's . Had to hold back on the giggling when hew came to ask if I could sell him a spare set .

With those calipers and that method you should be able to go clean round the bend ..... Never tried using bleach , my go to is Jif / ANother white cleaner for first level gunge removal . I might have to give this a go next time .

click on the yellow writing .....the one that says "link "

To state the obvious it's running rich . Assuming throttle cable and choke cable have slack at idle , and the needels sit down properly , I'd concentrate of the pilots screws and jets. Take a look at the attached maybe Link to basic fault find procedure

Huh I might have missed it but when your balancing the carbs and you rev the bike the movement of the guages doesn't tell you anything either ?

All I can add is that I bought a cheapo Chinese 6L U/Sonic cleaning bath six years ago , and having done a lot of old old carbs, I swear by it . Best £100 spent that year . Was a believer in comp air and aerosol cleaners for a long time, but now a convert to the school of "20 minutes in the bath , wash and then off you shoot" . Technically you should be able to get the same result with either method , but for me the U/S bath is garanteed to work , and if not sure , another 20 minutes will deffo cure it . It's an arse on a bank of four having to split them down, but the hope is, you only do it the once . Without wishing to sound like a smug knob, this is what I did my 750ES resto , and it fired straight up, settled to idle with no dramas. Bike had been sat for 6 years before I bought it , and two years after that , so plenty of time to gunge up . If you can run to it , well worth the investment IMHO .

Has it been a very naughty frame ?

Unless you're being offered it for £20 ....with those miles and that problem I'd really pass up on it. Don't be conned by the thought it's a "classic" they were kinda dull in the 1980/90's . If you can find a mate with a cheap X7 for sale .............

CSML look to do pistons if that helps any . https://www.cmsnl.com/products/piston-set_5930145821/

Did the choke cable change work out ? I've got to ask ...........are you "Simon G" or did you just pick up a bad nickname along the way ....

Simoniz wheel silver from Halfrauds was very popular and a good match back in the day .