Kristjan

Been thinking about tampering with my cams lately, would be easy to do as I'm planning to do valve clearances soon. I have standard 1995 WS cams in my 1146 right now, but seems like early exhaust cam had ~0,4 mm more lift. Obviously, both exhaust cams are longer duration than intake. Can it be a good idea to run another intake cam on exhaust side? That would be ~0,1 mm more lift than early exhaust cam, but ~0,5 mm more than late exhaust cam, numbers based on service manual. Would it be worth the hassle of setting them up? Some advice or thinking material that you would like to share to a engine building rookie? Engine is 1146 with pistons from SACS engine, raised compression, head is ported and with 1mm oversize valves; Akrapovic 4-2-1 exhaust and standard BST40 carbs w/airbox.

You can have one made (water or laser cut from mild steel) and mix it with standard one to fasten it on crank.

Would a durafix soldering rod work?

I'd like to have one, but as it's said, they are a little bit fragile and info/parts hard to come by, so I think I will not. I would probably put my bet on a two stroke before that, if lightweight and a bit of power is on the topic.

Gorgeous. The frame with it's wideness makes it all look very muscle. It just shouts "I'm not your regular one" at your face.

From the outside, B400 and GSX-R400 engines seem to be very much the same, but availability is the other thing.

Rear suspension looks funny, why have 3 shocks?

No screw on caps needed.

I think they were from a K5 GSX-R. Denso part 129700-4400. But mine is a watercooled motor, so I don't know how they would fit.

Mine work good so far. With stock ecu and coils wired in series. But of course I don't have no idea about dwell time and other figures... I just checked that they measured 1,8 ohm each, that gave me 3,2 ohm that shouldnt fry the ecu. Good solution when space is an issue. I'd never run separate coils amd leads any more - unless I'm forced to.

I've heard about this mod before, if it does the job then it should be fine. I know that many swear by OEM clutch plates, but given that kevlar discs are claimed to be grippier and not so sensitive to slipping damage as cork plates, why aren't these recommended often? Of course they won't be as durable, but I'm thinking of giving them a try. Been reading about Barnett kevlar being rubbish but any opinions on EBC?

It's not the worst case imo, some colours are acceptable (by me) and the shape of the bike is fine. Better think of why did someone design Fiat Multipla like this? They must have been on heavy drugs! Have to admit that many questionable or strange designs (by today's standards) were probably cool back in the day. Some remained, some did not.

I think I'm starting to remember that there was a build thread. Truly an awsome build.

I have used that and probably use again, so far it seemed like a good oil for fair price. Valvoline was good for two strokes as well, Racing 2T wasn't exactly cheap but ensured that the engine wouldn't fail.

This is the bollocks, watching with interest! Not many bikes have bolt on headstocks... something different.

There's a TL's younger brother SV1000 for sale in Estonia, with turbo and everything. Imported from UK, still on UK plates, price starts at €2900 if my memory serves me right. Didn't seem to go very fast on the strip, but hell knows why; turbo is also a small one but streetbike wouldn't need a pumpkin there anyway and it probably suits better for the V2 low end and midrange torque with the whizzy bang spinning and boosting early. Probably one of the really cheapest ready-to-ride turbo bikes and there doesn't seem to be any buyers in our country, can't understand why, maybe half of the nation is pussies and other don't ride motorcycles. I'd buy it but I have my GSXR and I really need an E30 in front of my house again, so money is very-very tight... today I'll either ride or walk, as up to date 4 wheelers all suck. So, I wouldn't start building unless I have some 2k or more to spend and that's when I would do the manifold and plenum myself and get the material free from work. Seems pointless to leave the job half done because of the budget; ideally you'd want at least forged pistons in the W to add some safety, and that alone costs a little fortune. 40mm carbs also aint the easy solution, you can go smaller or go efi, both have their +'s and -'s. And as you're going to open the motor anyway to lower compression or install low CR pistons, you might as well make sure your rod and main bearings are fine or just replace them, and much else. I don't see a point in blowing a worn out engine, it all starts with a good base material.

Obviously it aint cheap, but perhaps it's worth considering getting the crank made?

So what about the goodies on the shelf?

Well, mine is. But the blue/white in second picture is probably one of the very best they came up with on Watermelons.

Yes, sprockets, pardon me. Sometimes the right words just don't come out. Timing won't affect clearances and stock cam chain tensioner is enough for most applications, just make sure it's working nicely. Manual tensioners need attention from time to time and will make the chain rattly if left untouched for too long; or cause damage from improper chain tensioning technique (not much force needed).

Diesel is shit for checking valve leakage, as it's thick. Gasoline is much better, but if you want to compare different combustion chambers, use air pressure. Put the crank on the TDC mark and look at the end of cams like in picture #2. Do you have the stripes and notches on the same place like that? Stripes have to be "level" with gasket surface. Did you remove the gears from camshafts during rebuld and what's your valve clearance? If cam chain has much slack, it's either worn to death or your tensioner isn't up to the job. Check the chain:

Don't mess with wrong timing. You WILL bend the valves and soon the valve head will snap from the stem. That will result in serious engine damage in near future. These engines are tight, so there's not much room for an error. Here's your guide to set it up:

I'd build it up with bunch of filler rod and then grind to shape with rotary tools? That doesn't look like a big damage do a head...

Stupid question, but why the hell did you have to put '97 750 (it's a carby-SRAD) ECU on it and when will it blow up because of the higher rev limit?