gs7_11

Can you confirm yet whether this is going to be the case? I'm happy to drop out if the event is going to be over-subscribed. My bike isn't an ET by the way

It is, ta!

Nope, not got one.

This. Wet and black says fuelling to me, as Gixer1460 said, must be fuel.

Yep that's it. There's no play in the springs, they're all the new heavy duty ones. The play us definitely in the gear itself. I was holding the gear while checking, not the basket. The other one I've fitted is much better, what I'd expect for a pair of helical gears. The bad one has a definite clunk, and a visible movement at the circumference of the gear. Like I said, I know it's worn and can see scuffing on the teeth.....my question is, how common is this?

On a GS1000, has anyone ever had a worn primary drive gear on the clutch basket? (I assume the same might be true on a GSX1100). My clutch was getting a bit noisy (had a reconditioned basket in about 1999), so I fitted the entire clutch from my 1000S which is in bits. It's now much smoother and quieter. The only difference I could find between the 2 clutches, apart from some wear on the plates, was a good bit more play in the primary drive gear, with some marking on the teeth of the gear on the basket. Anybody come across this?

Yep, seems about what I'm getting. That's great, thanks! Very useful page. It shows that with the sprockets I've got (16:42) and the bigger circumference of the 18" slabby wheel, my gearing is actually a fair bit higher than stock....not what it feels like. I've only got the 1085 kit in now, and although there's a bit less weight, I'm surprised how quick the bike feels. probably plodding about on my R65 makes anything feel quick!

It's a while since I've ridden a standard GS1000, and my 1000S is a long way off rideable, so can anyone tell me if this sounds about right: My 7/11 is doing about 70 at 4000rpm. It feels undergeared.

Sounds like your tap isn't opening fully. If all the carbs fill ok when you pour petrol down a pipe, must be the tap.

Not directly comparable, but my 1085 with RS36s pulled smoothly from under 3k, with no fluffiness etc. And that was with race cams! It now has standard cams, and ET/GT type 34mm CV carbs with an Airbox. It's now a total grunt monster, and pulls hard from idle, although I've lost the 'oh shit!' that I used to get at just over 5k

If it's not an L, is it possible it's an 81-82 EX or similar, which had significant differences to the earlier bikes?

No worries, good luck!

I've got part of a Dynojet kit I would sell you for a few quid. It's what's left from mine for a GS1000G with BS34 carbs, so should be about right. I only used the needles and the smaller mains for use with an Airbox. There's 2 sizes of main jet, which are going to be about right for cones and an open 4:1. There's also a new main air jet which is important. I can copy the instructions and tuning guide. Let me know if you're interested.

Eh?

Are you talking about full throttle, high RPM here? Cos if not, you might find it's needles, float heights, or another fault, other than main jets. Like Wraith says, something around 130-140 should run well enough. I think 115 sounds right, not 155, for standard Airbox. Have you still got the stock air filter?

I'd be interested........will be going anyway.

I didn't mean gently overall, sorry if that came across that way. The debate on this is interesting, and I also don't think you should take 1000 miles to run a bike in. However I don't fully accept the arguments often put forward on the other side either, particularly with regard to older stuff. The claims don't hold up under scrutiny IMO.

Rings ok. What does it do to the bores?

I've always run mine in like a normal road bike, but over a shorter period - maybe 200 miles? Start off gentle, build up when it feels like its ready. Make sure you're pushing it a bit further every time you ride it till when it's ready give it WFO a few times. Plenty of up and down the years, don't cruise. Then change the oil. Always had good compression, long life and have stripped and rebuilt engines with Wiseco kits run in like that and they look good and are in spec.

I've always used 10W fork oil on bikes where oddball stuff like that was recommended, never had any issues. Should be fine for a 250.

No, carburation should be spot on. Sound like a good overhaul would be the place to start. I like Keyster carb kits, and you can get a set of o rings from cycleorings.com

If all 4 plugs are the same, logic says start with something that will affect all 4 cylinders, since its less likely that all 4 carbs would have the same fault, although not impossible. What about the air filter and airbox? Any issues with that? Is the filter itself clean, and importantly NOT over oiled? Then there are things which could be off on all 4 carbs, like has someone set the air or pilot fuel screws incorrectly, but the same on all 4? Have the float heights been set incorrectly on all 4? Needles come under this heading, but are less of an issue as the adjustment available is not that dramatic. Finally, you might have the same fault on all 4 carbs, such as leaky float valves or leaky o-rings at the float valves or chokes for instance. These bikes are of an age now where you can't assume anything is working correctly, and even a low mileage bike might need a carb overhaul with a complete new set of o-rings.

Of course you do, but in my case the clips stayed fitted fine, but the groove was too big, or became worn bigger with time, and the pin passed through the middle

Yep, that's wrong. Should get mid to low 40s easily.

Thanks! You probably enjoyed reading it more than I did doing it Anyway, I learnt summat.