gs7_11

I was referring to the above pointless exercise.

Then do it properly and check whether your swinging arm is straight or not, don't guess. Don't measure to bodywork and grab handles, use a proper datum point. Actually, if your forks and yokes are straight (there's another assumption...) then the front wheel is, in practical terms, as good as any. The accumulation of tolerances on any used bike rolling chassis means that nothing is ever going to be that precise, and nor does it have to be. You could use the same technique as above, using the stock wheel, to give you a reference.

Nobody is saying do a half-assed on non-scientific job, but they want you to do some of the work yourself. You don't need to actually machine the spacers, but you do need to be able to take some measurements with a steel rule and a set of verniers. If you can't do that, you might as well forget the whole thing. You seem to want someone to give you an Airfix kit style set of instructions.....you won't find any. When I did mine (with no guidance whatsoever, I just thought about it!) I fitted the wheel with a spacer (old one, doesn't matter which) to one side, caliper hanger and everything else fitted. I bought 2 pieces of square section tube long enough to go from front to rear wheels. Check they're flat by putting them against each other then turning them 180 degrees. get a steel rule and a set of verniers. Attach them to the rear wheel with bungees, so that they pass by the front rim. Check they are parallel to the wheel if you've got a tyre fitted by measuring with verniers. Adjust till measurements same each side. Centre the steering and measure to the front rim. A bit of patience and you will deduce an offset, and can then calculate the correct spacing. Sketch up the 2 spacers you now know you need and bung someone a few quid to knock them up. When you've got your spacers, fit the wheel and repeat the checks, then fit sprockets and using straight edges and a similar willingness to experiment and get your hands dirty, you can work out what you need to do to get a straight chain run. I needed to fit a smallish spacer behind my front sprocket, and get 15mm machined off my carrier. There's other ways...maybe you can come up with something better? All told, I don't think there's more than half a mil error using my method. Point is, get stuck in and have a play.

Ah, I didn't know they got round to doing them for CV carbs. It's been a while since I've heard of them. Actually, that's pretty much what they Dyno jet kit is too: main jets, air corrector jet, and with the Dyno kit you get a different needle too.

Well the description for the Dynojet kit Stage 3 suits my bike (or will if I keep the pod filters) so theoretically the kit should work first time. I also have a vague memory of a magazine article or something where a bike was fitted with a Dynojet(?) kit, then sent to a dyno to be tested. The operator tweaked the kit till it was right, put the standard needle, different main jet and air corrector in, thus leaving nothing of the Dynojet parts! Not exactly a ringing endorsement, so my instinct is to stick with the standard airbox. [ Incidentally, the GS1000G airbox flows better than the GS1000ET airbox....in the case of CV carbs the main jet is 107.5 or the chain drive bike, 115 for the shafty. This was born out when I fitted a stock set of VM28 carbs to my bike, when it had a standard slide carb head, with a GS750/850 airbox (and 1000G rubbers of course) and on the dyno it was lean, ahd to go up a few sizes on the mains at which point the power was up a fair bit. So there you go.]

Yeh, but wasn't the LeDAR kit just for slide carbs?

Thanks for the reply. Hmmm. Lumpiness at the low end is exactly what I don't want. I'd hoped the Dynojet kit would deal with that. I'd be better sticking with plan A then (airbox)...don't mind giving up a few bhp.

No-one? I need input! I-n-p-u-t!

+1. You can get Three Bond for about a tenner for 250g. Suzuki UK are selling the same thing for about £25! The picture in the Eblag listing shows a 250g tube of Three Bond! Ray Debben told me to use Loctite Ultra Grey, now called 5660 I think, for about £8. I'd go with Three Bond. http://www.Eblag.co.uk/itm/THREEBOND-1215-HIGH-PERFORMANCE-ENGINE-GEARBOX-SEALER-250G-TUBE-/111912846248?epid=1589024092&hash=item1a0e8683a8:g:ONIAAOSwZjJU7aiO

I know! Not criticising, just commenting on how things change.

Anyone had any experience with fitting a stage 3 Dynojet kit to CV carbs like the Mik BS's? Done a search on the forum but can't find anything specific. I'm putting a set of BS34's on my GS1000, and considering my options about airboxes v. K&Ns. Does the Dynojet kit work properly? i.e. smooth carburation over the whole range.

So not an especially powerful bike; grunty and relaxed by todays standards. Yet the first page of my GS1000 owners manual proudly claims "The fastest Motorcycle Suzuki have ever produced"!

Mine was 75 when standard. With a 1085 Wiseco kit and a 4:1 and jetting, it was 90. That was a different dyno. That was a while back. Last time it was dyno'd (different dyno again of course) it was 114 at the wheel. That's as above plus Kent cams, RS36's, gas-flowed large port head.

Didn't know that was there, thanks. However, I'd still phone Lee at Robbie's Rochdale, that way getting 15% discount. Fair dos, wouldn't help the OP in the meantime. As a general point though, I find it helps to phone people as there's almost always more to be gained than by looking at a website.

Nobody picks the phone up any more......

Fascinating I'm not sure what's wrong with my bike then! The swingarm pivot bolt is the same diameter....I've had a GSX1100 swing arm in my frame with no problems. You're right about one thing.... the frame will handle the power, and more. My bike is plenty stable. The forks and wheels/tyres were the weak point IMO. Once I'd changed those, the handling was in another league.

No, you're ok thanks. It's £16(!!) on Eblag, and my pilot valves were perfectly clean. Not sure how they could have been cleaned in a superior way! Unless you mean it smells nicer, which I won't argue about. I used a can of carb cleaner from my local car shop (£3.95) to get the worst bits off, then lemon juice in the float bowls, agitated with a small paint brush, comes up like brand new. Carb cleaner and compressed air ensures all the drillings are clear, and I found vinegar (69p from Tesco) was better than lemon juice to dissolve the deposits on the pilot jets. It's corrosiveness (and that of lemon juice) are negated by rinsing all the parts with water after cleaning. Admittedly, these carbs were quite clean. For really bad ones there no substitute for ultrasonic cleaning, and I believe there's a forum member who does a good deal on that.

Thanks. Actually, whilst waiting,, I'd ordered a new needle, and sure enough, springy! I'm surprised all 4 have seized up that way, but then it does seem these carbs have been stood for a while. All 4 pilot jets were clogged up....soaked them in vinegar to clear them. Anyway, I've now ordered another 3 float needles.

I've got some Mikuni BS34 CV carbs in outstanding condition for my GS. Quick question: are the float valve needles meant to have a springy bit, as per almost every other carb I've ever worked on? Or did something change with these? I guess it would apply to GSX1100 carbs too. The needles I've got don't compress at all, i.e. the little shaft at the bottom of the plunger is fixed, not spring loaded. Am I right in thinking these have seized up?

Open. Do the test, then repeat with a squirt of oil down the bores. The difference twixt one and t'other tells you stuff.

Very nice! How did you find mating up the Suzuki drive with the Gurls blouse shaft? Also, how's that handling with 17's on? I mean obvs it's ok, you know what you're doing, but no issues? Raask rearsets....Mine were originally those, but f**k me they're high! My aging hips couldn't hack it (and that was 15 years ago!) so I made some new brackets and repositioned them. In my defence I should say that I banged my left hip up falling off my mate's X7 when I was 16. Eeee, them were't days.....

Anything and everything! What's the spec? Wossit go like, mister? Are those GSXR carbs? If it's an 850, is that a GS1000 sized head bearing, or GS750? How did you get a single sider to fit? Etc etc. Come on, spill!

Hi Jon, great to hear from you! I'm well thanks, and back on the GS. Really pleased that the engine was a good one...I must have done something right then! Looking back through the pics I've got (not sure if I sent you them all?) it had a nasty break in the crankcase on the ignition side, besides the chunk missing from a liner, and apparently one of the mounts was seized. Was all that really 14 years ago? I'd love a copy of the article, thanks, I'll PM you. All the best.

Excellente! Really pleased to see it all in one piece! Hope the engine was ok. I had a bit of fun with it.....there was a deformed M8 nut floating around in the cases, which had been trapped somewhere, and a lump missing from one of the liners. I think it had had a traumatic life! (Actually, I've till got the nut in my little 'black museum' box, after all these years. tell Jon he can have it back! ) It'd be great if Jon checked I here again, and gave us an update.