Nik

You say it's been dynojetted. Does that mean that your emulsion tubes and needles are Dynojet? My experience with Dynojet is that they are crap. Their parts are made from cheese, and wear severely. It could be the cause of your problems.

Does it flow petrol when not under vacuum?

Also, don't forget to check the float levels. It makes a lot more difference than most people realise. IIRC, BST36 should be set to 15 mm.

It could be that the arrows and numbers on the cam sprockets (which I presume you used when you installed the cams) are on different locations on the g and f cams, and you'd have to set cam timing manually. I don't know for sure, but it would explain what happened. Do you have both pairs of sprockets, so you can compare?

Tapping into the oil cooling system for cam oil supply is useful on engines with e.g. big block cylinders (where the cylinder block internal oil passages are non-existent, or restricted), but otherwise there is no reason for having them. In theory, you actually lower the oil pressure when connecting the cooling system with the oiling system. How much diffference it makes in real life is debatable (since people obviously use them, without major disasters reported), but it certainly doesn't make oiling better.

Accepted "facts" and facts are two different things. ;-)

Welcome, and stay curious! :-)

Great info, Canamant! Thnx.

I agree with 1460, the 1100f cams will make your engine peak at relatively low rpm, e.g. 9,000 rpm, and any 1100 CDI would achieve that. Stay away from the 750 CDIs, since their rev limit is higher, and a missed gear could make your engine over rev (been there, done that, splitting an 1127 GSXR 1100 crank because of a 750 CDI on an 1127).

I am not sure what APE's top end oiler kits look like but make sure you do not fit a kit connecting the cooling channels with the pressure/oiling channels, i.e. a kit that draws oil from the cylinder head cover to the cam shaft ends. The only proper source of additional oil supply to the cams is the oil gallery underneath the crank.

Going from 1127 to 1157 cc is not worth the effort. Save your efforts 'til you can do a proper upgrade.

Great info. Thanks, Rsvfletch. Any other tricks when weldning such forged (I presume it's forged) aluminium?

Nice! What kind of aluminium did you use when you welded it?

I've had several brass tubes falling out on their own, when turning the head upside down. On other heads, they've been stuck like crazy. I guess the tolerances on the machining and/or brass tube bulge varies quite a bit. Heat and som mild force and you'll be fine.

Great info!

Some more than others!

I used to run a similar setup, Powerscreen engine, with R cams, 4-1 Yoshi, BST36 carbs with two vacuum holes in the throttles, dual V&H filters, 155 mains, up one or two steps on pilot jets, lowered the needle one groove. Ran very well with nice and even torque curve.

Mine is! By far! Carl, you have a PM with photo evidence.

To OP, dialling in cams may seem complicated and a bit scary, but it isn't. If you're patient and somewhat sober, and take it slowly step by step, you'll find that it's no big deal. Making up your mind on timing, overlap etc is another thing ...

PM sent, so the rest of you guys don't get exposed to non-Suzuki photos.

☺ I'll see what I can find.

If your engine model no. (right-hand side, above the clutch cover) begins with a "V", the engine is 1100-1200 cc, i.e. 1127 or 1157 cc in your case.

I used to work a lot in the U.S. and often spent my spare time searching for car and motorcycle parts, wherever I was. When I ran into Web cams (somewhere close to L.A.), I had them do a set of rocker arms for my oil boilers. I don't remember the exact cost, but it was a lot cheaper than APE (where I used to purchase hard-welded rocker arms). It's probably 10 years ago by now, but it could be worth a try.

I was looking at them too. How many times have you crashed with them?