Damienga15de

The problem is using the rubbers means I have to shift the cooler out further at the bottom I think the clearance for the mudguard is OK now but if I go further it may not be, I'd have to make some angle spacers for the top too

Since iv fitted the 1127 the sebring headers don't clear the oil cooler, iv made some solid brackets to space the bottom out enough to clear . Will these cause me issues?

The beater srad 600 i just bought has had seals and heavier oil and the fronts fairly good and im the same weight. the backs very shit though

S1000rr works great in my 750 M and some lust racing jack up dogbones really help get some good front end feeling back, the electrical gubbinbs under the battery tray need to be moved but swing up around the fusebox perfect and the only real job is to extend the starter cable to the relay. The electrics are better up there anyway out of the elements better

It's definitely a mikuni has a part number and the squares symbol, part numbers almost the same as a 1127 40mm carb needle.

The length might not be an issue but I wouldn't be happy with the slop in the retaining clip/washer have you modified anything to suit the 2.55mm diameter

The needle jets are standard 631 0-8 I wonder is the 6zd14 needle a superceded part number I can't find any reference to them anywhere

Did you use the needles? Iv sent a mail asking them, they appear to be 5 series needles not 6 series

It's loose in the slide I'm not doing much more until factory pro reply it's 2.5mm diameter standards 3mm

Measurements are poor the digital calipers got wet

Oil cooled, came off a 750M

Bst40ss come with a 6ZD13-3 closest I can find

So iv gone about putting in my factory pro kit in my bst38 from the 750 Carbs measure 38mm Jets all as per Haynes manual Needle is a 6DZ14 it should be a 6ZD7-3 according to the Haynes The needles in the kit are much shorter and thinner Has anyone any ideas? Maybe someone has been butchering before me?

I need this too, a bolt on solution would be great

I have a mix of early k series coils on my 750M, the resistances are the same but the lenghts are different.

Iv a BMW in my M , i find it perfect for fast road and plenty of adjustment left , and im 100kg on it , i run 10kg springs in front and have a near perfect balance now,

i was going to glue mine but it was basically dust , bought a second hand clock, lasted 2 spins broke off again

Iv done the bearings this evening slightly better feeling but I think I need to do the little spherical one too. I’m going to get some dimensions tomorrow , I wonder does it actually need to be a spherical all the linkage bearings are straight so no twisting there , the only reason I can see is to allow the shock to twist a bit

Thank you very much ,

That would help wouldn’t it , 750 M

Where can I buy these bearings new or has anyone got dimensions that I could give my local bearing stock list the bearings numbered 29 & 31 in this diagram

Fibreman? he is in the traders section

Are the float bowl breathers venting ok they can be squeezed under the tank

i would be interested in the lower section if your getting rid of the fairings, there worth feck all ill throw you the price of a few beers !

Usually the use of a larger hammer does the trick. If that fails keep increasing hammer size. If that fails you have a problem.