Duckndive
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Posts posted by Duckndive
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To stop oil swashing away from pick up common in the later water boilers when used in sidecars
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1 minute ago, clivegto said:
I need a spacer for this one
i,ll be careful when I remove it then
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23 hours ago, clivegto said:
I stumbled on a 1340cc 1100m engine les than 10 miles away from my house
. Orient Express big block, 1340cc, 1100m flowed head, APE cylinder studs, coil spring clutch conversion and carrillo rods. Though I'd best gather it up 
Similar Spec to mine Head on mine was done by Dom Trickett
And i need to remove the spacer from its brief turbo & Nos Time
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19 hours ago, clivegto said:
Do you know how they got a spacer in for the lock-up clutch, perhaps they moved the engine a bit in the frame ?
As I understand it "its well known that Bob was stubborn" so it was done with a bit of butchery and adjusting the engine position slightly it only need a few mm of clearance as if you look at a close up pic the frame / rear mount slightly encroached over the case ...
Bob supplied a longer stiffer arm with drag slots for the revised lowered version of the bike and i think he tried a set of raked yokes in it as well
Apparently when he ordered the beam frame it was built with clearance for the lockup spacer "I bet that was a very abuse laden conversation" but that said he did a lot to promote Spondon
on a coax its a huge problem to overcome as the cover / engine is behind the arm pivot ...
. so best not to go there
18 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:A m8 with a mag4, similar problem - ended up cutting the offending tube out and remaking it with space!
Yes Jimbo with the Yellow Harris turbo had to have his frame modified for the same reason I think there's a pic on here
pics are here
unfortunately some the pics are photo bucket overlayed since he originally posted but still viewable and there are clear ones on page 3
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Ok real world comparison my 1166 EFE forged pistons welded crank lock up proper built motor . Garrett T3 "external gate" Tractor Carb "HSR is no better in BHP stakes"
this was a quick favour Tim Blakemore did for me to check the fuelling with a 6PSI spring 159BHP with top end blips on the curve "later traced to a split Dyna Coil once home" we only did the one run due to time and not wanting to take up Tims Dyno Time messing about with it ...
So 10 down on the Rajay
Once i had it sorted it made 175 at same boost....so a huge 5 bean better
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34 minutes ago, imago said:
I did chuckle, and I still do at how excited/hysterical whoever wrote the article were at the HP produced. Good for the day, but if that's what you got out of a litre plus engine after fitting a turbo now you'd be well upset.
if you look i have explained the reason for the low fig
Use a modern BB snail on the same motor at 10PSI ..200 on a good day with a lock up
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On 10/25/2023 at 9:05 AM, imago said:
I'm not saying they're bad, just that roller bearings are better in terms of longevity and reliability over greater mileage. I don't think anyone can argue against the longer life of a roller bearing, particularly with lower oil pressure.
It's the same comparison as that between cast and forged pistons. There are plenty of cast piston turbo bikes running around, but they can't take as much boost and/or timing advance as forged, and they won't do the same mileage.
You work with what's available, in the '80s that was plain bearing turbos and they worked. Now there's to option of roller bearing turbos which last way longer under the same conditions. So if you're building a turbo engine for prolonged road use, and in this case one with comparatively low oil pressure available, it'd be a poor decision to go with the lesser design.
Agreed but you original post eluded "chuckle" to the Low HP figure of the set up...
which as I said was good for what it was
Bill actually skimmed over "laughed off" the low / poor ETs he ran "I,m ok with it"
The Limiting factor was actually the frame "could not fit a lock up which held back the power" also an issue with later CoAx "speeling" Spondon frames
The Bike was a year or two later reconfigured raked and lowered "the brick rule now being in place" new Spondon arm with slots and they managed to gain enough room to fit a lock up and spacer .. viola 220 / 240 ish bhp with same set up and mid 9,s he then bought an Ali "beam" frame which was specially built at the rear to have room for the lock up & Spacer .Given Bob was stubborn that was a miracle
..i,m sure there are pics on here some ware of both
I actually lost track of USB in 87 ish marriage kids sold USB bike etc....but did attend the Long Marston rounds as on my doorstep
It got very Bitchy towards the End but many went on to be successful in SSB and other classes ..and one or two still have there original USB bikes ..there is a group on faceache that occasionally gets updated
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17 hours ago, imago said:
Yeah, carbon seals and a plain bearing which wasn't so happy with low oil pressure which is why they didn't last very long on the road.
Not the roman candles you seam to think they are ....
I,ve ran two road bikes with them with no issues as have many others
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2 hours ago, imago said:
turbo with carbon seals.
Draw Thru's have always used a Carbon Sealed Whizzer that's why the Rajay was so popular along with the fact they dont need much oil pressure
200bhp was / is possible with a Rajay....you just put a big spring in the gate and hang on
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Given it was on a Rajay, Tractor Carb, 4star its still a good no..
Wee Mans is also a Blow thru oil boiler so not a direct comparison
You also need to ride a DrawThru to appreciate the adrenalin rush when it boosts is unlike anything else
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On 10/21/2023 at 3:42 PM, IceKat said:
It could also be homemade , i think it was superbike magazine that did a how to
Yes it was wrote by RevsHotClutch ......."if you know you know"
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If a single Hex socket don't work "which it should"
Get a Nut welded to the spindle and then use a socket on that
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6 hours ago, Dezza said:
Are the headstocks on these the same as a Blandit, so doing a front end swap (stem and so on) is as for a Blandit?
Yes Headstock is same as Blandit but wider at the swingarm pivot
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1 hour ago, Cobby said:
I found a PDF however it seems really basic
there's a faceache group Suzuki GSX 750 Inazuma GB
i can email the German one if it helps
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is there an autojumble as well ?
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6 hours ago, Cobby said:
Does anyone have a link for a workshop manual please
i have a a factory manual they pop up on ebag
i also have a PDF of the German 1200 Zuma manual
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They are his 1st design as are the solenoids so possibly not available anymore....are they same as these ones ? ...as I only have the pair
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Personally and speaking as someone who is not a track day genius
But it takes more skill to hustle a 600 round quick than it does a 180bhp thou ....
I did a corporate track day "car" in 1lt Hotted up stripped out Fiesta on 5" wide wheels and control tyres it was an absolute hoot far more fun than anything else i drove that day
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24 minutes ago, Cobby said:
I take it they are longer?
Well the stock ones were #uc#ed and had them kicking about there 330mm eye to eye
But Richard Hocking @gsxr884 can supply aftermarket ones at various lengths at good prices
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4 minutes ago, Cobby said:
Have you use shock adapters to raise the rear?
I fitted GSX 1400 Shocks
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21 hours ago, TonyGee said:
it might be worth thinking of using the 32mm carbs that are on the 750 for the 1200 engine, I did this on my Katzuma project and loved the way it ran, it had a lot more bottom end and mid range and still would pull 130mph.
The 32s on a 1200 are different carbs to the 750 ones
But as you say they do work
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Very Clean
Just Needs a 1200 Lump and a Blower
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On 10/10/2023 at 5:59 PM, Joseph said:
I'm assuming you had the plate laser or water jet cut ?
If so who did you use ?
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With the cover off you should be able to see if the clutch is operating when you pull the lever in ....
Did you soak the fibre plates in oil overnight before assembly
Spondon no 10
in Trick Frames
Posted
Even with an oil boiler in those frames are not very doing engine work friendly