[gsx1100ef (1150) - advice on engine mods]

Given your location "Norway" your bike is most likely fitted with the "restricted" lower power cams "as were most European models" 

so a simple upgrade would be a pair of full power stock cams or "D" marked cams as they are often referred to 

 

[Scavenge Pump,what you using?]

30 minutes ago, clivegto said:

Yea it's a lovely bit of kit. 

Is that one from Tomaz on Faceache ? 

[Speed triple swing arm in slingshot]

you also need to consider if the matching front wheel etc will fit your front end 

[Ecu / CDI - 1127]

dont Bandit ones need to see a resistor or something in the switch / loom  

i,ve used 750 ones on 1100,s just shift early as the limit its higher 

[Speed triple swing arm in slingshot]

15 hours ago, Graeme said:

I've heard it's wide, but surely can't be hard to cut the pivot width down. I assume that can be done in such a way that keeps the wheel central and chain line right.

I've no idea though.

I guess ducati is another option if I want to stay 3 spoke. Don't know how hard that is either though. Probably a fair bit more expensive too

Its not that simple its a very wide arm that needs extensive work to narrow ...

i,m not a fan off single side arms but as others have said a Durapi or VFR are better options 

[Air cooled bottom end.]

43 minutes ago, Blower1 said:

What I try to say is Katana rods are not mandatory for big power engines.

If want beefier and heavier rods the GN250 rods are nearly identical with Katana rods and a lot easier to find. Even those eastern copies of GN250 rods seems to be good material.

Yeap there the one's Joe Marshall talked about on faceache 

[Air cooled bottom end.]

3 minutes ago, Reinhoud said:

Is Robinsons Foundry a real / only Suzuki dealer? 

Or are the prices in Europe inflated?

Robinsons are aside from Suzuki UK an official importer  

Fowlers get there parts from the above 

[Air cooled bottom end.]

The EFE crank in my 1400cc motor has been 9.15 @ 168mph with 20psi into a T4 using an S&S carb and race gas 

when i swopped the 3 speed out for a stock box and removed the turbo kit its mint 

personally i think kat rods are over kill for a street motor  even doing the work your self with straight cuts and bearings that's a 2K crank  

[Air cooled bottom end.]

Just now, imago said:

Yeah, I was coming at it from the idea that as it's 1168cc and I keep the boost to a reasonable level I don't need to take everything else to the edge to squeeze what I can out of it. It's not going to be some fire breathing 1300 or 1400 cc monster but I reckon from picking out the relevant bits of info I can hit somewhere in between 200 and 250 hp which as you say will be 'quite exhilarating'.  

I used to run about 180 on the road and i could keep up with my mates K6 Thou....the fun started when the straights ended 

[Air cooled bottom end.]

3 minutes ago, imago said:

They're 250 Eruro each from CMSNL. 

Beware of CMSNL   

they say its in stock when its not 

[Air cooled bottom end.]

1 minute ago, Reinhoud said:

I paid 149 AUD each for a conrod, at the Suzuki dealer. Don't look at Suzuki Performance Spares, he asks the same in GBP

If your on facebook ask Joe Marshall down under about rods as the same rods are used in a 2 smoke apparently 

[Air cooled bottom end.]

12 minutes ago, imago said:

Just had a look at the rods, basically it's a thousand eruos/pounds for a set of four. The costs are mounting, so I'll price it up properly and run the numbers as well as looking at just how much benefit I'd get from a set of rods. i.e. are they sufficiently stronger to warrant the money, or do I limit the engine to 250hp and stick with the stock rods.

Its not HP that kills rods is Tune "Detonation Kills everything" 

Dept on wizzer and carb 250hp on a draw thru is a hoot on the road ...

you rapidly run out of straight 

[Air cooled bottom end.]

12 minutes ago, clairetoo said:

my thoughts are - when I see a 6 second turbo funnybike with a bandit motor , I'll believe they are a stronger engine.....

Show me a 6 sec Funny Bike that does 4 sub 7 sec passes on the same GSX motor 

And European Record holder runs a GSX1400 based motor 

Even Pro Stock in the US are giving up on them  and going V twin or Mega buck V&H billet 

Its horses for courses and for a road bike a Blandit or GSXR motor is a far better value route 

Totally Unrelated and off topic Get Well Soon 

[Busa pistons ring position]

All in the manual 

[Busa pistons ring position]

same as oil cooled 

[Engine ID]

are you sure its a 1100G frame as from the rear light it may be a 650 Kat frame 

as imago said all the 850 1000 1100 swop with no issues  

[Air cooled bottom end.]

10 minutes ago, imago said:

Agree entirely, For less than half the money I could use the B12 engine I have here and get more out of it. But, the whole point of the build is to use an air cooled motor.

If it was purely about power I could buy a GSXR 1000 or Hayabusa for the same money as a build, map it and piss all over air cooled, oil cooled and most turbo bikes of either flavour.

I get the want to use an air cooled motor i love them and have used them for years but since using an oil boiler it a no contest

EG to do an air cooled crank with straights cuts even if you have the ability to do the work your self a set of new gears is a grand

and every time you take an air cooled crank apart it needs even more weld to keep it together …."the word of a crank builder not mine"

I,m sure you will end up with what you want and enjoy it   

 

 

[Air cooled bottom end.]

I get the fact that you want to use an old skool air cooled motor 

But Use an Oil Boiler  and save a load of £££ and get more beans 

I'll get my coat 

[She’s petit, beautifully proportioned and Italian..]

2 hours ago, Mike990 said:

Yes the airbox is an odd shape but if you like theory take a look at this site - 

https://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Airboxes.html

It explains the science behind airboxes and the purpose of a resonant chamber - mainly to reduce mid range flat spots and doesn't really effect top end power.

Whilst the calcs look complicated they're not really and I bet every manufacturer (even Bimota) has a computer model to determine the volume of their airboxes. So I always think a bike is better all-round with it's original airbox.

I'd hazard a guess that the pipe was causing the fueling issue.

I know that this may be a controversial opinion on a site where a lot of people binned their airboxes years ago

 

Absolutely manufactures don't spend millions on R&D for nothing 

[Low comp 1168 piston ID?]

from the no they may be Cosworth 

if you measure the ring grooves Wiesco have ring sizes on there site

 

[What is this part at the end of the clutch push rod?]

that's the cam that the cable pulls on to operate the push rod 

CLUTCH SCREW ASSY
2320030002 

[She’s petit, beautifully proportioned and Italian..]

There very nice and niece 

I seam to recall a mate of mine's brother talking to a guy on the owners club stand at Stafford quite a few years ago as he was having carb issues with an aftermarket pipe  

I  remember the guy saying the airbox was a bit of a compromise due to its position he suggested a K&N panel which had to be trimmed to fit as a good starting point  

[Supercharger]

7 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said:

I figured it might have been from the sidecover. But as regards running 'well', the idle is all over the shop!

the video I posted was 1st start as he normally posts on Faceache now ...

it broke the original drive and its been remade better and it runs sweet now 

next step is pipe the turbo back into the carb ..

[Supercharger]

Early one from you tube 

[Supercharger]

3 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said:

I wonder how well it actually works (if it works at all ! - show mock ups being a possibility) with a turbo blowing into a REALLY well undergeared supercharger ?

It runs well one of Loppies creations ...

Video on Faceache