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GSXR 750 differences in swing arms


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Posted

Hi all,

 

Im reassembling a crash damaged 750 wp 1993. In the crash the headstock of the frame deformed so consequently I've replaced the frame with one from a different year. The swing arm bolt, adjuster and castleated nut on the new frame fit to the opposite side of the frame compared to my original.  Now I assume this frame had a banana swing arm originally because my bike had the braced swing arm, so I'm assuming the difference In fitments is due to this?

 

Can someone please confirm whether I will have any issues fitting my braced swing arm to this frame?

Posted

Hi spadge,  welcome to the forum. I'm not quite with you, the 92-93 had the banana arms 94-95 had the braced arms, the braced arms are a far better swing arm so some people swap it on the earlier models. if you have a braced arm and you say you've bought a newer frame then the braced arm will fit straight in but you will need the newer swing arm pivot bolt as its 25mm on the later ones. you can tell the later models differ at the head stock , the lower bracing has a different shape to the older ones.

hope that make sense, but if you can put some pics up please! cheers.(y)

Posted

Hi there I also have a wp 750 with the banana swingarm and hate the look of the thing. If I get the newer bracers one can I use my wheel disc and calliper to fit or do I use the braced parts? Thanks guys 

Posted

Someone might jump in and correct me here but I believe the wheel and caliper are the same. You can check if you search for a micro fiche for your bike on Google (check part numbers are the same). 

 

You may want to check the rear shock linkage attach to the swing arm in the same way as well. Micro fiche will probably also answer that question. 

Posted

Yes it fits . Brace arm in wn/wp frame but you will need the bearing spacers from wn to insert inside the braced arm to take up the 5mm difference and the dog bones from brace arm as well as the wheel adjuster blocks. Wheels are the same. (y)

Posted (edited)

In my scineraio I have a frame, which according to the v5 was manufactured In 94. The hole diameter for the swing arm spindle is 20mm. The rear swing arm takes a 25mm spindle. 

In order to make the swing arm work with this frame will I need a 20mm spindle and some sleaves made to make up the 5mm difference at the bearings? Alternatively will the spacers from the wn have the same external diameter as those from the wp, if so I'm assuming I just swap my spacers for those ones.

In addition I also need to account for the difference in size of the spacer inside the swing g arm between the two bearings. Similar questions as above. Does the wn have the same external dimensions as the wp spacer with a 20mm internal diameter? 

Edited by Spadge
Posted

Yes spadge,  wn/wp are same frame. You will need the spacers from braced arm and insert the smaller 20mm spacers from wp into the braced 25mm so as to reduce internal dia to 20mm. If you're buying new bearings it may pay to buy the new spacers too. Bearing suppliers should stock them. Can't show any photos as I'm away recovering from illness.

Posted

Cheers for that mate. Out of interest would you recommend just Inserting the smaller spacer into the larger one? Would it be a good idea to weld them together? 

  • 1 month later...
Posted

I have done this myself just recently and I feel the need to jump in and point out a few details I don't think have been covered yet. The pivot bearing sleeves from braced arm do indeed slip inside the earlier banana arm bearings, but that is where the easy stuff ends...

You will find the spacer tube between the bearings is different between the two arms. The banana arm spacer has to be used otherwise your sleeves will not be kept in place.  And the banana spacer DOES NOT slip inside the braced arm spacer. I had to trim 2mm from the overall length too as the are not the same width either - meaning your bearing sleeves sit proud and don't allow full tightening of the spindle. On a dry build the arm floated side to side by about 2mm.

I would love to hear how MadB got around this? Also which dust seals to use? I used braced arm ones with banana spacers left proud by the corresponding amount. They have thrust washers inside and so need to be part of the overall solution.

Basically it was all done in a day but involved a great deal of trial fitting, very careful measuring and consideration of which combo of parts to use. And finally stuff did need modification, wasn't a bolt in job.

The arms are the same weight (checked on scales) but the braced looks a million times better which makes it worthwhile IMO.

Posted (edited)

 

13 hours ago, Legotoy said:

I have done this myself just recently and I feel the need to jump in and point out a few details I don't think have been covered yet. The pivot bearing sleeves from braced arm do indeed slip inside the earlier banana arm bearings, but that is where the easy stuff ends...

You will find the spacer tube between the bearings is different between the two arms. The banana arm spacer has to be used otherwise your sleeves will not be kept in place.  And the banana spacer DOES NOT slip inside the braced arm spacer. I had to trim 2mm from the overall length too as the are not the same width either - meaning your bearing sleeves sit proud and don't allow full tightening of the spindle. On a dry build the arm floated side to side by about 2mm.

I would love to hear how MadB got around this? Also which dust seals to use? I used braced arm ones with banana spacers left proud by the corresponding amount. They have thrust washers inside and so need to be part of the overall solution.

Basically it was all done in a day but involved a great deal of trial fitting, very careful measuring and consideration of which combo of parts to use. And finally stuff did need modification, wasn't a bolt in job.

The arms are the same weight (checked on scales) but the braced looks a million times better which makes it worthwhile IMO.

don't know which arm you may be using @Legotoy? Mine fits straight in and as for the weight, my braced arm is nearly half the weight of the banana arm.  the sleeves slide straight in and had no problems with the width either. maybe i am a lucky sod,eh. didn't have to trim anything. as for the inner spacer sleeve, maybe someone already swapped mine before i got it. don't know but inner sleeve didn't  move inwards as i tried pushing them in further but just stopped.

floated? you have an adjuster on the left side to take out any play and you also have shims/seals either side aswell.

Don't know if anyone else has had your problems with fitting  this arm but everyone  i've read about has been fairly simple.

 

 

 

IMG_6970.JPG

Edited by Madb
wrong pic.
  • Like 2
Posted

had a looky see at my arm and i defo have the seals in must have used the braced arms or the srad ones i had in the workshop. you do need a bit sticking out for the bearings or otherwise the arm won't move when you torque the adjuster up. have you a pic of your arm @Legotoy

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Lush! @Legotoyloving that front end! how you get on with the jetting with them fliters? I ended up using 150 mains tho still in need of some tweaking tho I am using the rf900 engine with 750 head. I also notice you have the speedo pick up on the right hand side. is that electronic speedo?

Posted

Hey thanks. The front end is a cheat - "fauxO-lins".

It's actually all standard Triumph T509/595 given a cheeky Ohlins/Brembo make over. That's why mechanical speedo is on opposite side. Trumpet speedo cable went straight in my Bandit clocks though.

Oh and sitting in SRAD 600 yokes with welded lock stops and Marksman head bearing kit.

Static sag is 35mm on max preload though, so rides like shit until I can get stiffer fork springs.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Oh the jetting. My motor also RF/GSXR hybrid. I started at 150 mains but the idle speed was hung up at 2,000 rpm even with the pilot all the way in!!! I.e. no pilot! Mains have a huge effect all through throttle position I learned the hard way.

 

I'm now 147.5 main which is the middle set of jets from my Factory Pro kit. Runs rich but buttery smooth all through the revs mmmm.

Edited by Legotoy
  • Like 1
Posted

Silly me. looked at the head and assumed! i should have noticed no clutch cable.  haha. O.o

i need that factory pro kit. carbs are worn but having said that it does run smooth enough with no flat spots.   idle tho is blaaa. Do you get new needle tubes with them kits?

i have got a head to port at sometime tho. one day,eh.

have you had yours on dyno yet?

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