Hayabusa rear axle nut torque setting

[Jpich85]

I know this might not be the right area to post this. I wanted to know if anyone knew the torque setting for a hayabusa rear axel nut? I have a hayabusa swingarm and I set it to 100nm but after 80 miles the bearing seized up so I don't think that was the correct setting. Any help would be great

cheers

 

 

Edited May 22, 2017 by Jpich85

[Captain Chaos]

are you sure the tube between the bearings in the wheel is the correct length?

[Jpich85]

I think so, it's the standard tube that came with the wheel, is it better to have it longer or shorter?

Cheers

 

[Fazz711]

Not shorter as it puts side load on the bearings. This will make them collapse 

[Captain Chaos]

if it's the standard tube it should be ok. Maybe one bearing was pressed in not far enough / a bit too far in the wheel which puts a side load on them.

The tightening torque of the wheel nut has no influence on bearing life if the whole stuff is installed correctly.

[Jpich85]

Thanks guys after looking at it I see that it seems to of been filed? I've measured down to the bearing from the seat of the opposite bearing and it's 121mm would you say the spacer needs to be that exact length of a little bigger?

I can make one on the lathe as it seems a simple spacer to make up.

 

[Captain Chaos]

a little longer. You install one bearing (right one if I'm not mistaken) until it seats, then put the tube in and install the other bearing till the inner race seats against the tube. Both bearings should turn together if you compress them (like tightening the axle nut) but still be able to turn individually when not compressed. 

[Captain Chaos]

and if the tube has been filed there's a big chance that it's not perfectly flat on one end, this has probably caused your bearing failure.

[Jpich85]

Thanks mate I'll get that sorted, I'll make it a little longer then, if the tube is longer tho one bearing won't sit completely in the bearing recess would it? Like when you fit a bearing and you get that sound when you know it's sat fully in the recess flush? I see how this tube works now tho and it makes sense, I think the front was similar... loads of slack in the spacer

[Gixer1460]

Even wheel makers get it wrong - I had a bearing in a Marvic Penta wheel destroy itself on the dyno - when I eventually butchered the chain adjusters to get the wheel and axle out, it seems in their infinite wisdom they used an aluminium bearing spacer ! ! ! MUPPETS!

[Jpich85]

That's what the hayabusa one is made from aluminum, do you think I should make it from something else like stainless?

[Fazz711]

Yes a tube of stainless would be good. 1mm or 2mm longer than the gap between the bearings should be good. If it is a bit long you can always skim a bit off. Not as easy to. Make longer 

[markfoggy]

Aluminium centre spacers are fine, but using something not made of finest engineering cheese is preferable.  So 6082/ 7075 ideal if you want to turn a complicated one that sits perfectly central to the bearings, length of 5000 series extrusion if you want to faff about when changing a wheel. Tolerance is +3-6 thou on dead dimension on outer races, this gets the balls running perfect in the inner and outer shells.