Bandit Swingarm into ET

[mick-ne]

Hi, All,

Does anyone know if theres a drawing of the top hat bushes needed for the swap, or even just the thickness of the shoulder .

 

Thanks Mick

[gsx]

I'll have a measure for you after Newark jumble if no one else chimes in 

[gsx]

Over all length 42.5

Shoulder 2.5

Ext 20

Int 16

Best to take arm and spindle to a local engineering firm though ,mine cost 20 quid 

[Paulm]

Measure your spindle mick,I'm sure they came in 15mm and 16mm,might be wrong though,also you'll have to shorten it if you arent using the ET footrests.

Edited January 29, 2017 by Paulm

[gsx]

750 et had smaller spindle than 1100 , as Paul said  et ones go through the hangers but gs 550 or 750 ones eliminate this if you've got a 750 frame ,for 11 frames a esd spindle will work 

as above take it all to your machinist 

Edited January 29, 2017 by gsx

[Paulm]

17 minutes ago, gsx said:

750 et had smaller spindle than 1100 , as Paul said  et ones go through the hangers but gs 550 or 750 ones eliminate this if you've got a 750 frame ,for 11 frames a esd spindle will work 

as above take it all to your machinist 

That's good info,I didn't know that.

[gsx]

Gs is were cheap back then and knackered lol 

God bless suzuki and their interchangeability , phew big word

[mick-ne]

Thanks for that. I was taking the bits with me it was mainly the shoulder I was unsure about and its a awful job to measure.

[gsx]

Bandits 220 I think and gsx is 226.

just be careful as when did mine didn't allow for the bandit chain rubber .just measure complete bandit arm width and gs frame which gives you your shoulder width .

if you don't have the bandit chain rubber and aren't intending to use one take the side to side play off one of the bandit top hats and then measure . Hope that makes sense  

[mick-ne]

Well after reading threads about chain runs I am now tempted to leave the engine mounts unwelded until I get the arm and wheel in.

Whats the opinions on setting the engine off centre to help with chain run ?

[R1guy]

19 minutes ago, mick-ne said:

Well after reading threads about chain runs I am now tempted to leave the engine mounts unwelded until I get the arm and wheel in.

Whats the opinions on setting the engine off centre to help with chain run ?

I'd be weary about going down this route- whatever motor you are going to use, it's a heavy old donk to be offcentre. I can imagine it creating some rather unique handling characteristics

[Paulm]

Centre the engine mick,deal with the chain run when you are ready,my chain just kissed the frame with a 5.5 wheel in it and the rear sprocket reversed,now with the 6in rim going in,I'm going to have to channel the frame by the looks of it, it's nothing that wasn't done back in the day,get your engine in central ,likewise the wheels lined up then sort the chain run.

[mick-ne]

Yeah common sense was telling me that but I just wondered if a small amount say 5mm would be noticeable.

I have my mounts all set up central anyhow so  im good to go.

[mick-ne]

Hi, for anyone interested my 750 frame has a 14mm spindle.

[Paulm]

Ah,must be 14 and 15mm on the spindles then,mines an 1100 frame,I'll measure it when I take the spindle out again.

[gsx]

21 hours ago, Paulm said:

Ah,must be 14 and 15mm on the spindles then,mines an 1100 frame,I'll measure it when I take the spindle out again.

Me  16mm top hats are for the 11s ,14mm for the 750 , had to get some new ones made .

any progress  or pictures ?

Got 3 m16 fine thread nuts if any one wants one , took a while to track down but lost me katana one 

Edited January 31, 2017 by gsx

[Paulm]

2 hours ago, gsx said:

Me  16mm top hats are for the 11s ,14mm for the 750 , had to get some new ones made .

any progress  or pictures ?

Got 3 m16 fine thread nuts if any one wants one , took a while to track down but lost me katana one 

Do you mean me or Mick?

[mick-ne]

I took the spindle and top hat to a machine shop who does some work for my company.

The guy said  instead of bushes he will make new tophats to suit the spindle out of stainless collect tomorrow no charge, cant argue with that,lol

Meanwhile in my shed my cushdrive is going under the knife lol

[mick-ne]

Just thinking about getting the wheel fitted, I have  presumed I need the wheel in the centre of the swingarm.

If the wheel is central in the arm does this translate to central in the frame , does that make sense lol.

Also if I need an extra few mm has anyone machined the actual chain adjuster block on the swingarm to get over a bit, theres quite a bit meat on it ?

[Paulm]

In theory the wheel,is central if it's in the middle of the swing arm.

[370steve]

most swing arms are wider to the chain run side!!! so just because the wheel is central in the swing arm dont mean it is central in the frame, if you see what i mean?

it will be most noticable when swaping wheel or swing arm from another bike. 

[mick-ne]

Steve,

That's the exact thought I had last night.

I have been looking at my wheel and swingarm out of the bike.

I suppose the arm pivot must be central to the frame so all I need to check is the two legs of the arm to see if one is offset more than the other.

[Swiss Toni]

Fit swinger to frame, with rear

wheel. No spacers. Fit forks and front wheel. Works better ( more accurate)  without tyres. Run straight edges alongside rear rim, extending past front rim. Measure offset at front rim.  Centre rear rim accordingly. Measure, and make spacers to suit. Don't forget the caliper hanger! Now the chain line. You may find, in extreme cases, the sprocket carrier will inhibit movement of wheel to the left. Not likely, but possible. 

Edited February 1, 2017 by Swiss Toni

[Solcambs]

35 minutes ago, Swiss Toni said:

Fit swinger to frame, with rear

wheel. No spacers. Fit forks and front wheel. Works better ( more accurate)  without tyres. Run straight edges alongside rear rim, extending past front rim. Measure offset at front rim.  Centre rear rim accordingly. Make spacers to suit.

Wot @Swiss Toni said ... this does of course assume your frame and forks etc are all true. So while you are at it, it is worth taking some measurements point to point each side to confirm that your frame has not twisted.

[mick-ne]

Thanks for that.

I think a new plan of attack is needed,  sort out your front end before you mess with the rear, that sounds familiar, lol.