Crash cage/crash protectors

[Jpich85]

I'd like to put some sort of protection on my bike incase it falls or in the worst case a crash and wanted to know if anyone has made anything or if there's anything that would fit, maybe a bandit cage? My bikes a GSXR 750/900 WN 92.

Cheers

 

[Madb]

Been thinking about this too, but not really come up with anything. Nothing to fix them to. 

Hopefully someone will come along.

Hows the bike running?

[Jpich85]

Yeah I've found some bandit cage type things on Eblag but I think you'd need to make some brackets up to fit them, I was thinking about milling out some square clamps that you could clamp on the frame near the rad and then bolt it to it then bolt the back part by the rear engine mounts near the air box. Not sure what it would look like tho or maybe just bolt some delrin bobbins to the square clamps instead.

 

the  bikes running really smooth now thanks mate, it feels like a weights been lifted getting that sorted until the next problem pops up lol, need some cush rubbers and tidy up the suspension linkage then it should be mot ready.

I found that for the hayabusa swingarm swap the gsx 750 1996 suspension knuckle works really well with a gsxr 750 k6 rear shock. Takes a little spacing to work but it feels nice now instead of a hard tail lol.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[bernardo]

The other option would be to fit NRC type engine cases. they're pretty indestructible

[Madb]

Nice to know yer bike is running sweet. 

Thing is on mounting whoopsie bungs on these frames is that they're mounted on strong mounting points. 

Their are none on these bikes. As i normally use fairing lowers cant make a frame as you desribed.

Hi Bernardo , As for them nrc casings. Last time i asked they didnt do them for these engines. Wish they would tho.!!!

Was thinking to make something for the timing case as thats the one that gets trashed on a spill. Let ya know how i get on.

But hopefully someone may have a solution.

[Jpich85]

Yeah let me know if you come up with anything mate, i could do a custom cage and mount it to the engine mount areas some how? Maybe if i could get some bendy tube i could mock up something, I can only weld stainless tho no aluminum unless I take it to work and do it on the down low lol

[bernardo]

I'm not a fan of zimmer frames. The NRCs on my SRAD look like castings from the originals but very thick . Match up for the internals like the starter motor pin is quite poor. Must be someone out there who could use your originals to make a mold from and do some casting

[Madb]

Something like this should work!

[Madb]

Something along those lines. Maybe epoxy resin to make the casing thicker to shroud the bottom bolt to stop it bending on impact as it messes the casing inside rendering the bottom crankcase unless. As it's raining outside might just make a mould.

[Joebloggs]

I remember seeing a few club racers use a length of flat bar that bolted on the front engine mount, was bent out to the edge of the case then another 90 degree bend backwards to cover the pickup cover etc. Had a strip of rubber behind it to stop the guard smashing through the covers in the even of an off. Don't know how effective it was but must have given some protection.

[Madb]

50 minutes ago, Joebloggs said:

I remember seeing a few club racers use a length of flat bar that bolted on the front engine mount, was bent out to the edge of the case then another 90 degree bend backwards to cover the pickup cover etc. Had a strip of rubber behind it to stop the guard smashing through the covers in the even of an off. Don't know how effective it was but must have given some protection.

Sounds like a plan but bit ugly.  I'll try to get domething sorted weekend. 

Need some volunteers to fall off their bikes tho. 

Anyone fancy being a crash test dummy??

[Joebloggs]

I guess they wouldn't be everyone's cup o t but I thought they looked pretty good, built for purpose if you know what I mean

[Madb]

Ugly as in design. but in racing dont matter so much i guess. 

Me thinking as just replacement cover for a more robust type casing.

More elegant solution ..

If you see where i am going. 

[Madb]

Going to make a mock up weekend, maybe using clay base type stuff.

[markfoggy]

Well, I've done a lot of development work on WEC bikes over the years and Crash damage when a new one arrives, before they even go on sale is always 1st priority. No off the shelf bits in this scenario either, so it requires some thinking outside the box. Oh and I own a WP frame that is a long term project that will include eveything that I've learned over the years, so my brain has them in mind.

Now first line off attack is to realise that you need 3 points of contact with the ground, when it gets crashed.

The Phase One Endurance book of good advice says that points 1 & 2 are fitted to every motorcycle, the bars and the pegs. 

Now the real issue with preventing damage is that you want the impact points to deform and absorb energy, if they snap, they are not worth having. Choice of materials is key here, so anything that advertises itself as 7075 Aluminium needs throwing in the bin, it's strong, but really brittle.  You want 6000 series Ally, 6082 T6 is favorite, any higher than T6 and it will start to permanently deform, T6 you have half a hope of kicking it straight.

Your weakest point on most bikes is the rad or oil cooler, so the more sideways movement that you can give them the better.  So mounting a little lower and giving them extra rubber mounts will help a lot. If you get the chance, get some 3mm alloy plate welded onto the sides, this will give you a lot of crash protection and save valuable parts that if they rupture could lead to engine damage. Lying on the floor with vital fluids everywhere, motor revving it's nuts off is very expensive.

So not to the thorny issue of a proper crash bung. I think that what I'm going to do is make some front engine mount plates out of 6/8mm T6 and try and squeeze a length of 10mm bar between the frame rail and the engine mounts. If I tension between the plates with nuts on the back and then stick some good crash bungs on the outside, I should have a decent solution that will bend in the rod and the plates, before it fucks the frame cradle. The engine mount side is of course Rubber, so hopefully given that 9/10 the load in a crash will head in that direction, it should work out.

What I cannot see yet is whether this could be kept inside the fairing line, those cases look a little vulnerable. I won't be running a lower fairing anyway, but others will be and a hole in original plastics is an obvious no go.

The timing side cover issue is very similar to Wobbly crank Yamahoo, I had GBMoto make the first covers for these and the first lot still ended up needing re-engineering after we couldn't get the Ti screws out after it'f first crash on that side, thankfully we didn't lose the cases, but very close.

For a water boiler I think that what I would do is get some Carbon Kevlar Cloth and a load of resin.

If you paint a load of PVA all over the possible impact site, you can use that PVA as a release agent and wet lay direct on the cases. Stick some plasticine in the screw holes and away you go.

It won't be pretty because 3 layers of Carbon Kevlar wet lay will never tidy up pretty, but by fuck it will be effective and save your engine.

Good Luck.

 

 

 

[Madb]

Thank you @markfoggy for insite. All good stuff. I love Phase one. Awesome team. 

Some pics of my attempt at engine casing. Prototype 1.only made with play doh at mo. Hoping to purchase some proper clay stuff. I remember PB mag making some knee sliders from it and it worked very well. 

Should be soft enough to spread load without breaking casing..

Let the piss take begin!

[monksey]

any excuse to play with play dough lol 

[Cluffy]

I have the wrap around bars on my bandit. Fits all the gsxr oil cooled stuff and trust me they work better than crash bungs.

[Madb]

Yes. Crash bars do work but can't get lower farings on.

[badgerkdd]

@markfoggy it is possible to get wet lay finished to look good, just needs a bit of time, patience, aversion to itchy fibres and about 20 years experience, oh and lots of wet and dry paper