Turbo bandit

[luke2152]

Im at 225bhp and pretty happy with that with a little headroom for say 250. Maybe its not such an idea....would be such a nice packaged solution too

[luke2152]

What about putting this on a standard tank:

https://www.Eblag.co.uk/itm/Suzuki-GSXR-600-750-K4-K5-Fuel-Pump-2004-2005-Petrol/112760737610?hash=item1a41104f4a:g:BsUAAOSwKXdaX4T-

And then replacing the pump with this:

https://www.highflowfuel.com/i-23908176-quantum-255lph-performance-fuel-pump-for-suzuki-gsx-r600-2004-2007-replaces-suzuki-15100-01h00-15100-01h00-e00.html?ref=category:335669

In tank regulator eliminates return line.

[davecara]

That pump does have a built in regulator but it wont be 1:1 rising rate so you'll end up with the same issues

[luke2152]

2 hours ago, davecara said:

That pump does have a built in regulator but it wont be 1:1 rising rate so you'll end up with the same issues

Good point but that's only a mapping issue if the injectors can keep up

[luke2152]

Not been on a while so a quick update.  Solved most issues.  Have stuck with current pump walbro gsl392 mounted externally again.  Using a new bandit 6 tank I picked up for peanuts on Eblag, used a td04 turbo drain where the petcock goes and added a return to the tank.  Pump itself mounted low to give it a bit of pressure on the suction side and seems to be running great.  Have made a 4th version of the turbo sump.  this one is attached by oil hose only which gives it a little bit of movement to vibrate without cracking anything. The new tank looked so good I painted the half fairings to match (spray can job mind).  Had it out at Rockingham last weekend and while I may have been lacking in talent the bike sure wasn't lacking in performace.  Oil temperature still gets bloody high in traffic (the big oil cooler located near the headers exchanges heat the opposite direction at slow speeds) 135 degrees measured at the sump.  I think that falls just inside the ok range for a good fully synthetic but I'm going to try and get a fan onto the oil cooler as well.

Edited May 15, 2018 by luke2152

[luke2152]

Whistling at idle.  Further inspection shows 3 major cracks in the headers.  My god  the engine is rock solid but everything else cracks on this bike.  Admittedly the little waategate pipe brace was shoddy but the other cracks surprised me. What is best stratagy to fix them so they don't come back.  fusion weld them and then make a plate/patch to cover them?  I'm wary of making a big brace over the area as if it cracks again it could hide the crack or make it hard to access it.

Edited July 4, 2018 by luke2152

[no class]

Luke....how did you make out with the repair ?  

[luke2152]

On 1/5/2019 at 1:42 PM, no class said:

Luke....how did you make out with the repair ?  

Sorry for late reply mate.  Yeah went well.  Just went over the cracks and got a friend to do some of the hard to get at bits.  Warped the header a bit and was hard to get back on but I suspect now its had a few heat cycles it will have shaped itself back to the way it was.

[luke2152]

On 6/1/2017 at 7:18 PM, Arttu said:

Yep, looks ok for starting point.

For comparison here is one that I made some time ago. Low comp 1168cc GSX-R with intercooler. Started with stock ignition curve that I found somewhere, added a little to vacuum areas and took off something from boost areas. The boost area is optimized on dyno up to 180kPa. Everything else is still that original guesstimate but it was working ok.

I used your table exactly as shown for nearly two years and its been working fine.  Today I had bike on dyno at SPR racing and Sam the owner (Sam is two stroke guru doesn't know too much of turbos) called his friend who does a lot of work on turbo bikes, who insisted I shouldn't use more than 24 degrees advance at full boost.  Needless to say I was pretty happy with the timing I got from Arttu but I tried taking 10 degrees out of the table above 100kpa and smoothing just out of curiosity.  The results?  Pretty much made no difference which has completely boggled my brain as how can such that is a huge change to the timing have no obvious effect on the torque and power curve.  Perhaps my ideal number is in the middle at around 29.  Bike was a bit hot for any further dyno play at that point so didn't get to experiment.

[Arttu]

There seem to be plenty of variation how sensitive different engines are to ignition timing.  I have also seen several turbo engines where even 10 degrees timing change doesn't seem to make any difference to power or torque. On some others you can easily see how 1-2 degrees affect.

Deciding optimal timing on those insensitive cases can be slightly problematic. By quick thinking it would look obvious that lowest timing that still produces good power would be the safest. But that isn't necessarily the case. While low timing is safer for cnock it can increase exhaust temps significantly which can then cause other problems. So usually I have used some middle ground figure.

[Gixer1460]

1 hour ago, Arttu said:

. While low timing is safer for cnock it can increase exhaust temps significantly which can then cause other problems. So usually I have used some middle ground figure.

Just thinking the same - retarded ignition on high boost starts the burn later, which could still be burning into the exhaust phase so overheating valves and nibbling turbo turbine blades. You won't see it on the output but will eventually in reliability!