spondonturbo Posted April 30, 2016 Posted April 30, 2016 (edited) People keep telling me that the waterboiler engines are really fast / powerful but are weak. What do they mean? Which parts are weak and what are the fixes please as I have an engine to build and need to know if there is anything to watch out for, thanks Edited April 30, 2016 by spondonturbo spelling lol Quote
kja.busa Posted April 30, 2016 Posted April 30, 2016 I've been running an 1100WS for a few years no issue, I have a big bore kit to fit to it when I get chance too. Quote
Danm54 Posted April 30, 2016 Posted April 30, 2016 Only thing I've heard is dropping valves but my standard one has been fine. Think its only an issue over redline rpm. Quote
Duckndive Posted April 30, 2016 Posted April 30, 2016 think the biggest weakness is owners not checking water level and boiling them... debbens did one that was 200bhp N/A ...The sidecar boys used to luv them...... there are shim spitting story's BTH I think that's from over revving them in a naked bike they do look butt f##K ugly thou Quote
spondonturbo Posted April 30, 2016 Author Posted April 30, 2016 Someone said they are prone to oil starvation to the head? as one of the issues. Anyone confirm this? Quote
Kristjan Posted April 30, 2016 Posted April 30, 2016 (edited) Never heard of oil starvation or shim spitting... and I'm happy to rev mine to the moon after I put it together with 78mm pistons. Over reving is the death, have seen two go bang because of this. They are quite tight on exhaust side piston to valve clearance in stock form and have 4,5mm valve stems. If you bend one valve just a tiny bit - it may even seem straight and work fine, but it will snap soon and cause horrible damage. I'm sure that much trouble can be avoided with good cam timing and the right clearances. Both engines that I have seen blowing up had valve marks on pistons showing that they were hitting each other. Both were bone stock, too, and cam timing was on factory marks. That goes for stock valves; some say that stainless are better, but best is to make sure there is no possible contact between wrong things. Edited April 30, 2016 by Kristjan Quote
spondonturbo Posted May 1, 2016 Author Posted May 1, 2016 11 hours ago, Kristjan said: Never heard of oil starvation or shim spitting... and I'm happy to rev mine to the moon after I put it together with 78mm pistons. Over reving is the death, have seen two go bang because of this. They are quite tight on exhaust side piston to valve clearance in stock form and have 4,5mm valve stems. If you bend one valve just a tiny bit - it may even seem straight and work fine, but it will snap soon and cause horrible damage. I'm sure that much trouble can be avoided with good cam timing and the right clearances. Both engines that I have seen blowing up had valve marks on pistons showing that they were hitting each other. Both were bone stock, too, and cam timing was on factory marks. That goes for stock valves; some say that stainless are better, but best is to make sure there is no possible contact between wrong things. Yes, the engine I am going to rebuild is likely valve damage from what the seller described to me. He originally had a blow up that threw a rod through the crankcases. Then he rebuilt the engine, but dropped a seal down the cam tunnel which then made the cam chain jump and another blow up. He then gave up and sold it to me, so here's hoping I have better luck Quote
Madb Posted January 18, 2017 Posted January 18, 2017 And hows is your luck? Everything working fine? Quote
spondonturbo Posted January 20, 2017 Author Posted January 20, 2017 On 18/01/2017 at 8:13 PM, Madb said: And hows is your luck? Everything working fine? Dunno yet! that engine is still sat in the shed while I concentrate on finishing two projects, one of which is another wp but the engine is all together on that one. Sorry that is not much help Quote
Madb Posted January 20, 2017 Posted January 20, 2017 No. Worries. Just wondered cause I'm nosey. And curious. Quote
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