kingkong1300 Posted April 28, 2016 Posted April 28, 2016 Hi can some one give me some advise please. I need to know what turbo to go for, the bike is a comp bike with new 1464 mtc turbo pistons and block, welded crank with straight cut gears, I have a choice of heads from a gas flowed bigger valve or a standed head and cams I've also just got a s&s super b carb so draw through is the direction i want to go but due to having no experience with turbos I've no idea where to start with turbo choice. Any advise would be great cheers. Quote
Arttu Posted April 28, 2016 Posted April 28, 2016 How much power you are looking for? 1464cc comp bike sounds like quite high hp. Any ways, if it will be a draw through then you will need a turbo with carbon seal. Choices are then quite limited, either get some old Rajay that has carbon seal from factory or get some other turbo modified by a turbo specialist. Quote
kingkong1300 Posted April 28, 2016 Author Posted April 28, 2016 I need to be looking at upto 300bhp to begin with arttu. I was hoping for a t3 of some variety as there seems a lot of options to modify in future. Quote
vizman Posted April 28, 2016 Posted April 28, 2016 talk to dave Dunlop at fastbyme on 07581304745 or universal turbos on 01425656900 1 Quote
vizman Posted April 28, 2016 Posted April 28, 2016 mr Dunlop may even have what you're looking for....... Quote
Gixer1460 Posted April 28, 2016 Posted April 28, 2016 I think for a Compbike you may end up overpowering the chassis! CB is restricted on tyre size these days and a 10" is really going to struggle with 300 odd hp! If its a big tyre then you jump straight into FB and play with the big boyz in which case - GT3071R blow through, Intercooler, methanol, compress the hell out of it and go racing. T3's are a bit old skool, certainly capable of carbon sealing and a bit big for what they give and probably not that common anymore - pointless buying a cheap one if it needs £250 worth of rebuilding. That size engine sounds like GSX / KZ? in which case oil pressure will be marginal for plain bearing turbos - the BB blow thro' ones score here. Quote
kingkong1300 Posted April 28, 2016 Author Posted April 28, 2016 Hi gixer1460 thanks for advise, chassis was built for funny bike and and has run low 7s so no worries there. The motor is a gsx and will be running a separate oil system with pump ect for the turbo. I have the ability to run meth/water injection if I really need. Thanks for advise 1 Quote
Phill106 Posted May 10, 2016 Posted May 10, 2016 On 28 April 2016 at 0:39 PM, Lucifer said: TD04 from saab aero... Are those water + oil cooled or just oil cooled? Quote
vizman Posted May 10, 2016 Posted May 10, 2016 i don't think any of them are oil cooled [I've not seen one] i always thought the oil was just for lube baby, and as for the ones that have a water jacket, you just don't need to use it, leave the threaded holes open. Quote
Phill106 Posted May 10, 2016 Posted May 10, 2016 2 minutes ago, vizman said: i don't think any of them are oil cooled [I've not seen one] i always thought the oil was just for lube baby, and as for the ones that have a water jacket, you just don't need to use it, leave the threaded holes open. Mitsubishi showguns and pajeros use a td04 that is oil cooled. Iv been abit confused by this water + oil thing since I started looking at doing a turbo project lol that would explain it though I'd worry about the bearings lifespan from no cooling Quote
Arttu Posted May 10, 2016 Posted May 10, 2016 2 hours ago, Phill106 said: Iv been abit confused by this water + oil thing since I started looking at doing a turbo project lol that would explain it though I'd worry about the bearings lifespan from no cooling Usually they do just fine on bikes. There the turbo gets plenty of cooling air and you don't run them continuously on boost to get the exhaust side glowing red. Unlike on cars. Quote
Gixer1460 Posted May 10, 2016 Posted May 10, 2016 The water cooled turbos were introduced by car makers who were fed up having warranty claims on turbos due to hot shut downs! Red hot turbo shut down with no oil circulation and it cooks the residual oil to coke and done enough times = fubar'd bearings! With water around the bearings, the water will continue to take away the heat after shut down. Just a few minutes at idle after a thrash will prevent coking. BUT IMO the new breed of BB turbos that rely on plastic bearing cages really do need the water cooling for a long life. Quote
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