GS 1000 petrol tank and carburfuckingettor Q's

[Baz1954]

In my last post I showed what a balls up a "qualified" welder did to my tank. Got her back from a real welder.

So today I tried to run the bike using a dummy fuel reservoir. Started on choke and when warm would not idle. No 1 & 2 exhausts were hot evenly No 3 really hot and No 4 started like 1 & 2 but went cool. All new plugs but checked No 4 anyway, all good. When I held the throttle open at around 2000 rpm and shut the choke there was all kinds of weird sucking or blowing noises from the carburfuckingettor area and the engine would die. I had blocked off the fuel cock vacuum line to replicate a tank being fitted.

You can see I have K & N's fitted and I only stripped cleaned and bench tested for float bowl height. I really can't remember what I did to the carburfuckingettors sometime in 1980 when fitting K & N's.

My mufflers have no packing but there was no excessive noise anyway.

I suppose I may have to do another strip but don't know what to be looking for or changing.

[Gixer1460]

I assume the carbs have been tuned / jetted / modified to work with the K&N's and the free flow exhaust? If not, then no wonder it won't run correctly. As these are slide carbs, they are a bit easier to tune IMO as operation is directly related to slide lift not airflow so much like CV's. Unfortunately 30 odd years ago, carb 'guru's' were all around, nowadays not so but some are still around with dyno's - necessary IMO. 

[Reinhoud]

Start with the basics; valve clearence, synchronization of the carbs, adjust the idle air screws (best way to do this is with  colour tune), new spark plugs, 

If this is all done, and still not running alright, ask questions again

[Captain Chaos]

your exhaust system is the problem.

It needs a turbine in it, coupled with a compressor, and this will increase efficiency dramatically.

[Captain Chaos]

Otherwise nice 1000 you have there. I still regret having sold mine 30 years ago.

[gs7_11]

Probably either blockages in the pilot circuit, or flooding from poor float valve sealing, or both.

Edit: To state the obvious, that assumes everything else is hunky dory; plugs, plug caps, valve clearances, points etc.

Edited 23 hours ago by gs7_11

[Baz1954]

Nothing was disturbed when I cleaned them just proven clear. I checked the slide heights and adjusted as appropriate. New plugs, points new and set using bulb method. I have a timing light which was my intention to use that day. Bike ran fine for years with K & N's, I just can't if I or mate adjusted the "thingies"'

I take it the site has an algorithm that if it sees "fuel/air" suppliers it changes to that stated in the title.