Inazuma 750 carburetor nightmare

[Gixer1460]

1 hour ago, terecha said:

Valve seat is pressed permanently into the carb body (can not be removed without damage). There is no oring around and no oring inside the seat.

Well, the jet is available, part #26 so it / they are replaceable, although stupidly expensive! Never known a new jet not to seal - the seats must be absolutely fubar'd!

As said above, even contemplating using RS / FCR's is waaaay beyond sensible for this application, especially just to solve leaky needles!

[TonyGee]

26 minutes ago, terecha said:

Yes. Stock frame and engine

then the 600 bandit carbs will fit perfectly with an inazuma airbox and inlet rubbers. 

[terecha]

3 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said:

Well, the jet is available, part #26 so it / they are replaceable, although stupidly expensive! Never known a new jet not to seal - the seats must be absolutely fubar'd!

As said above, even contemplating using RS / FCR's is waaaay beyond sensible for this application, especially just to solve leaky needles!

#26 is a needle jet. Has nothing to my case of the fuel leak

[terecha]

1 minute ago, TonyGee said:

then the 600 bandit carbs will fit perfectly with an inazuma airbox and inlet rubbers. 

If you are right, that would be a good solution, while in bandit 600 valve seats are replaceable

[Gixer1460]

2 minutes ago, terecha said:

#26 is a needle jet. Has nothing to my case of the fuel leak

Yes - that is the bit the float NEEDLE seats into . . . . look at the picture - see the countersunk hole, that is the needle seat!

[TonyGee]

5 minutes ago, terecha said:

If you are right, that would be a good solution, while in bandit 600 valve seats are replaceable

as I said the 750 and 1200 zuma uses B6 carbs. 

[terecha]

3 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said:

Yes - that is the bit the float NEEDLE seats into . . . . look at the picture - see the countersunk hole, that is the needle seat!

Oh no. The seat is in the place where tip of #22 sits. You can't see this in the picture.

[TonyGee]

the seat isn't shown in the pic but it is in the list below, I didn't know they where available from suzuki as they are pressed in !!!!! 

the bandit 1200's seat is held in with a small plate and screw. 

 CARBURETOR for Suzuki GSX 750 2000 # SUZUKI MOTORCYCLES - Genuine Spare Parts Catalog (bike-parts-suz.com)

[terecha]

4 minutes ago, TonyGee said:

the seat isn't shown in the pic but it is in the list below, I didn't know they where available from suzuki as they are pressed in !!!!! 

the bandit 1200's seat is held in with a small plate and screw. 

 CARBURETOR for Suzuki GSX 750 2000 # SUZUKI MOTORCYCLES - Genuine Spare Parts Catalog (bike-parts-suz.com)

In bandits and teapot, they are pressed in and replaceable. In inazumas not.

[wraith]

If it was me in your shoes, I'd ever put the gsx750f carbs and inlet rubbers back on and get some Dyno time or do the same with b6 carbs.

Did you use the 750f inlet rubbers?

Was it flat sporting from the start of the revs or higher up? 

May just need bigger main jets.

As the gsx750f engine will be pretty much the same engine you have.

[terecha]

12 minutes ago, wraith said:

If it was me in your shoes, I'd ever put the gsx750f carbs and inlet rubbers back on and get some Dyno time or do the same with b6 carbs.

Did you use the 750f inlet rubbers?

Was it flat sporting from the start of the revs or higher up? 

May just need bigger main jets.

As the gsx750f engine will be pretty much the same engine you have.

I installed the carbs with K&N filters instead of the airbox. Maybe it was a reason that tuning was so difficult.

Rubbers between the head and carbs were from 750 inazuma.

Experimented with jets, but couldn't achieve success.

Flat spot appeared on mid and higher revs (like main jet and needle)

[wraith]

Yes, with the k&n filters you'd need to go upto around 140 main and start with the needles in the center groove.

Using the standard Inazuma intake rubbers (rubbers between head and carbs) will be way to small for the gsx750f 36mm carbs and you'd be getting air leaking all over the place. So you need to get the rubber inlets as well and put new o'rings no the rubbers when you come to fit them.

 

[TonyGee]

6 minutes ago, terecha said:

I installed the carbs with K&N filters instead of the airbox. Maybe it was a reason that tuning was so difficult.

Rubbers between the head and carbs were from 750 inazuma.

Experimented with jets, but couldn't achieve success.

Flat spot appeared on mid and higher revs (like main jet and needle)

sounds like it was drawing to much air, people have had some success with wrapping half the air filter to restrict the flow. but defeats the object of fitting separate filters. by the way  you can't fit an inazuma airbox with the engine in the frame    

[wraith]

1 minute ago, TonyGee said:

sounds like it was drawing to much air, people have had some success with wrapping half the air filter to restrict the flow. but defeats the object of fitting separate filters. by the way  you can't fit an inazuma airbox with the engine in the frame    

How would you of got it out to put filters on ?

 

[TonyGee]

1 minute ago, wraith said:

How would you of got it out to put filters on ?

 

it has to be cut off.  ask me how I know  

[wraith]

I can gess

[TonyGee]

Just now, wraith said:

I can gess

[terecha]

3 minutes ago, wraith said:

How would you of got it out to put filters on ?

 

I had to remove the engine from a frame and then the airbox.

 

[TonyGee]

when i built my Katzuma i put the engine in the frame, then i found a standard airbox, but when i come to fit it, their was no way it was going on !!!!!!  luckily i only had the engine in the frame at the time 

[terecha]

I checked that the bandit 600 carbs can fit inazuma, however there are no such carbs in the good condition in the market. I could buy a crap for 150 euro here   The problem in my case is worn needle valve seat. While it is not replaceable, I don't know how to fix it

[TonyGee]

4 minutes ago, terecha said:

I checked that the bandit 600 carbs can fit inazuma, however there are no such carbs in the good condition in the market. I could buy a crap for 150 euro here   The problem in my case is worn needle valve seat. While it is not replaceable, I don't know how to fix it

are you sure the seats are worn ?  the needle (float) valve has a rubber tip so generally its the tip that wears not the seat. have the carbs done a lot of miles ? 

[terecha]

10 minutes ago, TonyGee said:

are you sure the seats are worn ?  the needle (float) valve has a rubber tip so generally its the tip that wears not the seat. have the carbs done a lot of miles ? 

Changed the the float valves twice. Genuine kit and tourmax kit, in both cases still leakage is present. Float is at the good level. So only the seats can be worn.

Edited June 27, 2022 by terecha

[TonyGee]

7 minutes ago, terecha said:

Changed the the float valves twice. Genuine kit and tourmax kit, in both cases still leakage is present. So only the seats can be worn.

can't say ive ever had a problem with a worn seat as a new valve fixes the issue. but ive heard of people using some sort of abrasive or cutting tool to clean up the edges of the hole in the seat.  might be worth a try ? 

[terecha]

7 minutes ago, TonyGee said:

can't say ive ever had a problem with a worn seat as a new valve fixes the issue. but ive heard of people using some sort of abrasive or cutting tool to clean up the edges of the hole in the seat.  might be worth a try ? 

Why not, but maybe better to use CNC mill with precision tip?

[Dezza]

If you set the carbs up on a bench on a secure stand, a retort stand is ideal, and the complete apparatus is set in a large tray such as a cat litter tray, by connecting a small auxillary fuel supply, you will be able to identify exactly where your problem lies. This can be achieved by removing the float bowls each in turn and manually closing the valve by moving the float gently upwards. If it doesn't leak then try the next carb and so on.