Fellow Watercoolers! I'm on the hunt for a completely unobtainium part!!

[Joseph]

It slots in ok but indeed i do also note a 10mm shorter shaft on the clutch side.

Other than that everything matches up so far

[djayedot]

On 4/20/2022 at 10:33 AM, Joseph said:

It slots in ok but indeed i do also note a 10mm shorter shaft on the clutch side.

Other than that everything matches up so far

Good deal man, at a glance it definitely appears the same as what I've got. Did you notice quite shallow engagement points as well?

 

-Austin

[Joseph]

The guy who has the RF channel on YouTube said this regarding clutch :

I'll get some pics of the cogs for you to compare to what you've got

Edited April 22, 2022 by Joseph

[Joseph]

Looks like your cog has had some machine work on it because this is what the one i've got looks like :

[djayedot]

12 hours ago, Joseph said:

Looks like your cog has had some machine work on it because this is what the one i've got looks like :

 

Now see, that looks normal to me. UGH... So either my set has already been undercut (and clearly needs it again because it looks WAY torn up, which is probably not possible as there isnt much material left at all), or is some other bogus gear set with super weak looking engagement points... I can see why they would cut the windows deeper, but even then, without those cuts it seems more shallow than what it should be. The hell is going on here lol

[djayedot]

Just took some quick measurements and my 1st gear window is about 3.85mm deep in the cut, and 3.55mm deep outside of the cut. 1100W is like 7.15mm uncut (unfair comparison I know).

But, that's CRAAAZY

[djayedot]

Man you know what, I'm really starting to think I have a 96-97 SRAD trans here... Did some more digging and it looks like 96-97 is NEARLY identical to the W transmissions, then 98+ they went to an obviously different style input shaft and one of the bearings has a half-moon clip slot located in the middle. This box looks weak AF I'm about to just send my 5spd out for undercutting, lmao

Do we have any SRAD experts here that could lend some info?

[wombat258]

Start by counting gear teeth to calculate the gear ratios. Use google to find out what those ratios match to. There is a big difference between 750W and SRAD.

[Joseph]

Measured 5mm on the same cog.

And, tooth count on that shaft, from left to right :

1 : 43

2 : 29

3 : 30

4 : 33

5 : 28

6 : 35

[djayedot]

Ah yes good idea, thank you for the specs let me give my set a look!

[rem]

[wombat258]

Drag race block. Not drilled for proper water cooling.

[Gixer1460]

20 hours ago, wombat258 said:

Drag race block. Not drilled for proper water cooling.

And probably a bit rate these days!

[wombat258]

6 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:

And probably a bit rate these days!

Very rare. I have one of the 1298cc SBM blocks drilled for full watercooling . . . 83mm pistons! Allows for a lot of valve area.

[rem]

[djayedot]

On 5/28/2022 at 8:09 PM, wombat258 said:

Very rare. I have one of the 1298cc SBM blocks drilled for full watercooling . . . 83mm pistons! Allows for a lot of valve area.

Hey Wombat, how hot does your bike run with that kit? What's your CR? Just trying to get an idea of what's ahead of me lol.

[djayedot]

Also, hi fellas I'm back from a little hiatus and there is some progress! A very kind gentleman on this forum (who coincidentally lives ten minutes from my shop) sold me a beautiful 94-95 750W braced swingarm!!! That checks ONE rare item off my list at least, leaving just a 40mm BST rack and that sexy ass SBM cylinder block to go...

I also got my 5spd trans back from the machine shop, they said it cleaned up well. I believe they had to do a little work to 1st and 2nd, all other gears looked good. I mated the cases a couple nights ago and tossed the motor in the frame, will try to finish up the install tomorrow evening.

The swingarm swap will have to wait a little bit (I have an S4, a Cummins, and my trusty  Ford Ranger all in a billion pieces that desperately need my attention first) but fairly soon it will be going in. While I'm ahead, I want to get an idea of what I'll need. I did some reading and it looks like the pivot shaft is an easy solution, and brakes/wheel axle/etc all swap over no problem. I see the chain buffer is a bit different and will pick up a new OEM one if I can manage to source it. But my current questions lie within the linkage- I understand that the dogbones are of a different design (I have them), but can I use my 600W "cushion lever" and shock? I was in a rush and took a quick look at the microfiche and it looked like the linkage was the same between models, but upon closer inspection it looks like I misinterpreted the fitment data... 

I like my cushion lever, it's nice and clean, and has all new bearings and seals. And I DO NOTTT want to part with my shock. I have no idea who set it up, nor what specifications it was set up to, but I am in love with the feel of it and very confident on the bike thanks to it. I would hate to have to go to a 94-95 750W shock and go back and forth with a suspension guy to get it set up even close to this old one.

Anybody got any pointers?

 

-Austin

Edited June 20, 2022 by djayedot

[wombat258]

4 hours ago, djayedot said:

Hey Wombat, how hot does your bike run with that kit? What's your CR? Just trying to get an idea of what's ahead of me lol.

Running it in a circuit race car. Compression is 11.1:1, running 98 octane pump fuel. Had to put extra cooling on because of the extra power (220 bhp), but no problems with cooling, even on hot summer days here in Oz. It is more reliable than my 79.5mm  bore stroker!

[Madb]

That bearing appears to be on the end a GSXR1300.