KATANAMANGLER Posted October 17, 2015 Posted October 17, 2015 I have 6" 1st generation Busa wheel and I'm contemplating puting it into a Slabby I'm building. I don't have the frame and swing arm here yet so I ask the question in advance: What are going to be my major challenges here ( spacers and spindle issues aside)chain run on the frame? Tyre clearance on the swingarm? Caliper position? All of the above?i've read that the 5.5" wheel is an easier option and a 6" wheel is a major ball ache. So what's the score? Quote
vizman Posted October 17, 2015 Posted October 17, 2015 I managed to fit an oz forged wheel on the dudettes slabby 11, it would've been easy to fit the busa/tl wheel in. call me if you want the ins and outs KM. 1 Quote
Rene EFE Posted October 17, 2015 Posted October 17, 2015 Should be a doddle if you have the right spacers and caliperhanger. Have it in the EF, although I struggle with a 200-section tyre. Next time I'm getting a 190 1 Quote
Scara Posted October 17, 2015 Posted October 17, 2015 (edited) Naturally try and use a busa wheel that has the under slung caliper to re-use the brake torsion bar if thats your choosing.I re-used the original Rear Caliper and had a modified arm made (painted red in pic) to get round the wider wheel.Also, you will need to change out the inner wheel bearings, and have a couple of spacers made for the wheel carrier, different as the rear axle spindle is smaller.Here are a few shots to help you with your decision KM. This is a 5.5 in an extended JMC swingarm that can accept the Busa wheel, but I chose not to instead using parts I had around the house from previous late model , 2008 and upward builds.I used the 525 link chain as the 530 kept grinding off the inside of the clutch hydraulic cylinder in the primary sprocket cover, plus it gave a wider range of choices in sprocket sizes front and rear. Ive got a 15 / 45 combo currently but will change the rear to a 41 in good time.The spacers will be off set on either side of the rear wheel, and you may have to have a shim spacer made between the caliper and bearing to the right hand side to stop the two parts binding up when you tighten the axle nut to secure everything in place.Make sure to get the rear caliper 'exactly' centered around the rotor, or you will find yourself with issues. Bent rotor, offset brake pull, dragging etc. I discovered this little nugget when working on the front end, and it destroyed 2 perfectly good rotors - able to speak from experience on that one But '01-'05 Bandit 1200 fits for sure. ONLY mod required is cutting a new .550" spacer to go between the wheel bearing and caliper hanger - if you dont want the ball ache - lolz If I can be of any more help, just ask away Edited October 17, 2015 by Scara 2 Quote
KATANAMANGLER Posted October 17, 2015 Author Posted October 17, 2015 Thanks chaps. The main thing is it's doable. I may have some additional questions once I get going. 1 Quote
TiZiK Posted October 30, 2015 Posted October 30, 2015 I managed to do it on my slabby. I used a 6" rim from the srad. I had some spacers made up to sleeve down the bearings. Was quite easy actually. Chain and wheel alignment worked out with minimal adjustment. 1 Quote
Ben Slabby Posted February 15, 2016 Posted February 15, 2016 Ok, so I'm going this route now. (cheers KM) Any pointers gratefully accepted, stand by for swearing and busted knuckles and flying tools. Quote
Nelson Posted February 21, 2016 Posted February 21, 2016 Me as well, me as well ! Ive just picked up a Srad 750 rear wheel & I'm looking to put it in a standard 1100 H swing-arm. Stuff like, which calliper hanger, the original pivots around the spindle, the Srad torque arm is fixed to the arm. What's it like clearance wise on the chain, ive got a 170 on a 5.5 rim & its ok, a 180 would be close, real close, bigger rim , more tyre spread. Any help in advance would real helpful Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.