Harris Magnum - where to put everything

[Dezza]

Fairing now being prepared for one of my shite paintjobs. I have discovered though that it is true that toothpaste removes the scratches from old screens And it works on old light lenses too.

[Dezza]

All painted and Dzued-up. The bottom part of the fairing is a pig to put on and it's just as well the paintjob is cheap crap: it's very easy to scratch something.

 

[clivegto]

Looks good. 

[Dezza]

After sourcing some headlight relays for my other OSS project that do not require 99 spade connectors, I decided to get some on the Harris. So I made a new loom for the headlights and a small subloom for the new relays that take block connectors. I wished I had these on it years ago as it saves quite a bit of space under the tank. Whilst I was at it, I fitted a new Electrix RR I bought last year from another OSS member. After being off the road for the past week of good weather, the bike is now ready to sit in the garage when it pisses it down tomorrow

 

[clivegto]

The brackets for the coils are they a bolt on item or part of your frame. 

[Dezza]

On 9/23/2020 at 5:58 PM, clivegto said:

The brackets for the coils are they a bolt on item or part of your frame. 

They are bolt-on. It's a one-piece alloy bracket that bolts onto the rear two lugs that are welded onto the frame to mount the back of the fibreglass electrics tray. It's a squeeze, but the ZZR coils fit in nicely. Using big fat coils like Dynas may cause clearance problems but  I do not know this for sure.

Another point that is very interesting to the rivet counters/those who walk around Stafford Show with vintage Harris paddock jackets on, is that if the frame has lugs to mount coils brazed onto the frame then the bike was built as a complete machine by Harris in their Hertford gaff rather than supplied to a customer as a frame kit to build at home.

Edited September 25, 2020 by Dezza

[Dezza]

Extended time spent at home has led to me finally getting round to changing my fuel cap. I've always used the Harris fillers but had a pukka Shaw from a Cessna light aircraft that was too cheap to pass on. The fitting is the same but the Shaw has a larger inner diameter. I enlarged the tank hole but it needs the fitting ring that goes inside modifying first. As is usual, nothing EVER goes on straightforwardly.

[Dezza]

Now on at last. Because I am not a gynecologist with fingers like those of E.T. fitting this cap to the tank took a bit of thinking, a bit like a round on The Krypton Factor. In the end I used four M6 set screws with the heads cut off to hold the retaining ring on the gasket then fitted the cap over the top, put some of the retaining screws in, removed the cut screws and replaced these with the last four permenent screws.

 

[Dezza]

I made a holder for a breather catch bottle for my project bike but decided on another design so I put the prototype on the Harris.

[clivegto]

3 hours ago, Dezza said:

I made a holder for a breather catch bottle for my project bike but decided on another design so I put the prototype on the Harris.

What is it breathing for exactly. 

Edited July 8, 2021 by clivegto

[Dezza]

1 hour ago, clivegto said:

What is it breathing for exactly. 

Tank breather. Sometimes a bit of fuel will pass the one-way valve and this acts as a catch bottle.

[MiddleAgedFred]

Saving this thread, it's very helpful thanks.

Great photos too.

[baldrick]

Just for reference, the big fat dynas fit under there too, and so does the battery, cdi, fuse box starter etc.

heres mine for reference if its any use to anyone. ive got a busa battery, and the starter is bolted to front of battery box, fuse box and cdi to back, and it all fits with plenty of clearance to the cylinder head and underside of the petrol tank.

 

edit to add, coils to be bolted to underside of bracket when engine goes in, they were just bolted in here for pic. 

 

 

Edited October 14, 2021 by baldrick

[Dezza]

The main body of the original WP shock has been looking increasingly naff for a few years so I had the spring removed so I coulkd get to the problem area. It's steel and the rust and remains of the paint came off easily back to bare metal with a small wire brush and some abrasive paper. Without a spring it's much easier to check for main seal leaks and all was good. If it was leaking I would have had a new bump stop installed as it disintegrated about 5 years ago but it's absence causes no problems. A few coats of Hammerite and now it looks so much better.

[denisd]

Looks good lad 

[Dezza]

Whilst the bike is off the road I have been doing a few other jobs. One that needed doing was fitting some spring loops to the exhaust to aid fitting. I marked it up and took it to Nigel at NRP Exhausts where he welded on a load of loops. He also welded a small piece of rod at the top of each downpipe so the flanges do not slide down the pipe when fitting. In all it makes things much easier to fit the system as it all holds together in one lump and now doesn't flop all over the shop with the flanges sliding away from the exhaust ports.

Edited December 4, 2021 by Dezza

[Dezza]

Updated oil cooler spacers courtesy of Sam. He did these whilst also making a couple more bits for my Spondon framed OSS bike.

[Dezza]

New rear light for this year. Those cheapo round jobs look a bit naff and the holders are really long meaning I had to fit a spacer between the lights and the seat in order to get enough clearance between the frame and the bulb holders. This led job fits in well and does not look too bling or modern, nor like something bought from the auto-jumble bargain bin. I did have to cut a new alloy plate but that's not difficult, even for me.

[Dezza]

Finally got round (after about 15 years) to getting the seat recovered. Same vinyl as stock so nothing fancy-pants. I even had the bum stop done that I never use.

[Kamikaze]

cool, looks good

[denisd]

Nice job 

[dynodave]

Can't beat a well put together Mag 2