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Gs1000. Has mot now, but..


Ibbo

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I've been busy in the shed, getting the old girl up and running, with the hope of getting some miles in this summer, before a strip this winter to tidy up.

The 5.5" back wheel off a k just squeezed in with some minor spacing issues, which included shortening the sprocket bolts which had an odd thread size of 10 x 1.25. Luckily I managed to get some help from a friend at work.

The front sprocket is spaced as far out as possible on the shaft, and best as I can measure is 1mm out of line, with the rear one. I should have measured the original set up to see how close that was.

Reversing the rear sprocket has gained some, so shouldn't be far off.

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Yesterday was the big day then, a first ride in the pouring ride isnt my idea of fun, but it had to be done.

Surprisingly, the handling feels very sweet, no twitches on white lines, or banding. Easy turning. 

The motor was fluffing a bit once the throttle was opened. Feels lean at part throttle. Pulls well once it clears the flat spot. Good enough to get to the garage.

Mot went very smoothly with an advisory for the exhaust noise.  As it should be really.

Bit of a zip up to 90 and all seems well.

Let the boss know all is well. Into the shed to lift the needles, and then a spin out after.

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I found that the needles in the cv carbs only have one groove, so I files the little plastic spacer down to 2mm from a varied 2.5 - 2.75mm.

Spend 30minutes searching on the beige carpet for one of them, but my luck was in.

Seemed to run a bit sweeter, so pulled it out front, and we both got togged up.

Hit the button to light the fire, and it tried but hit compression in that way they do, and then the starter gently whirred in an expensive manner. Kit off again to my good ladies disgust.

Back in the shed, and the rotor has spun on the taper. The nut being loose of course. The cover had been off before, and lagged up with black gunk, so I should have been suspicious I guess. So as a temporary thing, I cleaned up the crank, and loctited the rotor on.

A long bar, and a pin spanner. Hmmmm 100ftlb that is then. No gasket, but I had to test it, it was still kicking back, which meant my repair wasn't going to last.

 

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Having read about the advance and retard fix I thought I would try that first, as I thought the theory good. 

Taking the heel off the arm allows it to retard a little further, but keeps the timing correct as it revs up.

Unfortunately it didn't seem to make any difference. 

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5 hours ago, Ibbo said:

Hi,

Ive not yet checked the timing. The mark looks to be on a piece of tin plate behind the adjustable back plate. Depending where its sat you could certainly alter it a few degrees.

Is this normal for this model?

I must find a manual.

Yes the GS/gsx have a tin plate with the timing marks behind the ATU timing plate, the slots on the ATU plate with give you the adjustment to get the tining spot on with a timing light (y)

Nice looking bike by the way.

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had a similar issue with the rear wheel "tightness"  I found that the K series rears have a wider hub than the Busa, so i swapped mine & line up was a tad easier. 

But same as you, i had to shave down the carrier bolts. I then bought some tab locks & 1/2 nuts to sort that issue ;) 

Third pic is a shaved down carrier which can also give you more mm's to play with. Oh & a 180 tyre :) 

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8 hours ago, CockneyRick said:

had a similar issue with the rear wheel "tightness"  I found that the K series rears have a wider hub than the Busa, so i swapped mine & line up was a tad easier. 

But same as you, i had to shave down the carrier bolts. I then bought some tab locks & 1/2 nuts to sort that issue ;) 

Third pic is a shaved down carrier which can also give you more mm's to play with. Oh & a 180 tyre :) 

DSCF1451.JPG

26943458_10155753078155733_447153015_n.jpg

 

I dont have much space between the chain and tyre, what do you think is a reasonable minimum?

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